13.8v at battery terminals and 14.2v on alternator indicates that you have a voltage drop.
B+ from battery to starter is the usual culprit.

Yes....it's in repair database,youtube videos.
Here it is:


Just make sure that you disconnect battery negative terminal before you start the job because of SRS...and do not re-connect battery before you plug back SRS connectors.

850oldschool wrote: ↑18 Jan 2020, 12:52 Your car may not be a '96, there's nothing like that on my '96.

Late '96 and all '97 n/a have this setup.

Remove negative battery cable for 15-30min in order to reset fuel trims,perform a re-learn procedure and see if code comes back.

Sometimes ecu gets wrong data and learn bad things after reset...so you need to reset it again...this time give it a "hard" reset.

Nope....you put a few drops on dry bearings with a straw and syringe down to the shaft.Dry bearings apsorb the oil,you wipe out the excess from the shaft.
Dust can't access the bearings.

I don't know how to say this to you....
The unit needs to be pushed out from the back towards you...not to be pulled from the inside.
It comes out in the same direction like radio.

On that bracket you have bendable pins on the left & right side. Also...you have the same pins up & down the opening which tightly secures the radio when you put it in that bracket. What i'm trying to say is that there is possibility that some of those pins on the upper side are not allowing...

Check voltage output directly on alternator....on b+ and alternator housing.
We need this to determine if alternator is bad or battery cables are bad.

Removing the top of the dash will be a waste of time since you will not have visual access to the ECC unit.

Push it harder....it needs to come out.
You will damage the trim with knives and things.

Can you find someone who can perform live data while driving?
Are there any pending codes present?

Cel will light ON when permanent fault is stored after a few driving cycles...but there can be pending codes stored without turning ON cel.....yet.