You need to look at the wheel speed sensors in real time - if one has gone out, it could cause all those codes.

Hello ForgerofMetal Use a hose in your ear as a stethoscope to track down a noisy pulley in the engine compartment. I going to guess is the alternator pulley, which “ free wheels “ on these cars; it isn’t just a solid pulley, it has a clutch. You might be able to hear the change while WoodWorker rev...

That 0.1 Amp might be the REM signaling the trunk lid is open to the CEM

That isn’t a huge drain , either, about 10% of battery in a week sitting without running.

If that’s Williamstown MA, keep an eye out for aNautic Blue V70 just east of the “ Lions”, about 100 meters!

I got that symptom backwards to your report. As Roseann Roseannadanna would say...

never mind!

Replace that brake switch, then try the stethoscope trick. Don’t leave that brake switch too long, it might be running your vacuum pump constantly which will wear it out, and it’s not cheap

That bedazzled car was worth $2 to just see it.

Watch out for your tools! Don’t get “ spinnered”

Scan with Vida for codes related to the Steering wheel module, SWM

A hard reset by battery disconnect is worth a try in the meantime, synch things up.

Synch or SWM.

Hmmmmm.

One day the person who wrote “ undo the bolts” as a repair text will need heart surgery and the surgeon will read “use silk to close the incisions in the chest”

Cancel that above

You need this guy..

..and the price has long since been forgotten.

Xmodex seems to really be the quality guys here for this stuff. Rereading the thread, I wasn’t aware they were ISO, and that does tell you the operation is serious

Good luck, amd hopefully it isn’t an E666

It’s the cool, dry fall weather which means excessive RaceBeetle hours….ran Abby back to the ferry through the beautiful Berkshires