The first time you replace anything is always the worst. In hindsight it honestly won’t seem that bad. The worst part is moving all the stuff that’s in the way. You’ll ultimately need to remove your airbox, front bumper skin and radiator support (black boomerang shaped thing above which are mounted ...

If you hit the top nut with an impact you honestly don’t need to counterhold with the torx. But you shouldn’t need to take your original strut apart so most likely not going to be necessary. That spring seat is new (I checked my maintenance records) and the top plate was still tight so you should be...

Correct: the front half of the rear final drive is an electronic clutch type mechanism that requires Genuine Volvo AOC oil, link here - https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-aoc-haldex-gear-oil-1-liter-31325136 The rear half is your ring and pinion gear and requires nothing special, just synthetic ...

Out of curiosity, what year? I had some toils along these lines, but I was only boosting to 6-7-ish PSI, when I normally boost to 15 PSI on our “Stage 1” 04 XC70. For what it’s worth, 2.5T LPT should make ~7-8psi in stock form/tune. Aside from the low boost, the other stuff you mentioned rang true t...

I wouldn’t be too concerned about the trans. I do believe you can opt to keep the torque limiting in 1st & 2nd, though I would generally just take it easy in those gears regardless of this topic. The 6-speed auto transmission you have is pretty tough, just don’t be a numpty with how you dole out...

Nothing unusual, just make certain you have your 4C wire positioned EXACTLY as it should be. I make sure to take plenty of photos of wire routing my first time.

Other than the wires, spring seat replacement is the same.

This is the concept.

What I was trying to convey is that over the lifespan of those parts, they really don’t cost a whole lot considering their serviceable lifespan. A used BG with good splines will typically run $2-400, new CS $120-150, DEM pump/filter/oil ~$350 (USD). Spread those costs out over a reasonable represent...

I’d start off with the trailing arm bushings and see how you like that improvement first. Replacing most of the rest back there will require an entire rear subframe removal. A word to the wise - get a couple different length metal blades for your sawzall & cut slots in the original bushings befo...

To measure your rod bearings the rod caps have to come off & Plastigage is then used. Without removing/disassembling the engine & mic-ing the journals this is the easiest way. It may not be ultra accurate, but you can at least get an idea of if you are close and also it gives you a glimpse o...