Hopefully I can provide some guidance for this job for those who are contemplating a DIY, it's a very easy job that shouldn't take more than 2 hours for both sides. I will also address my technique for removing the often intimidating driver's side axle successfully as there are countless forum threa...

[EDIT] I broke this off from BlackLab's CV axle replacement after I shamelessly hijacked the topic. I'd asked him about the car in the background, seen in the photo below -- Matt [/EDIT] https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/download/file.php?id=70181&t=1 Its a '70 Charger R/T 440 survivor ca...

Hey Matthew, I've always liked the Chargers but never really considered ownership due to admission costs, and I'm incredibly fussy about condition and thought that something I would be satisfied with would be well over 100K. Anyway, this car came available from the widow of the original owner and wa...

Mine did that about six months ago, it was a precursor to the passenger side CV joint failing. I was concerned about the transmission as well until it developed into an acceleration vibration that gradually got worse and and undriveable. Telltale sign of CV joint failure in my case.

If you're changing out the struts, I would suggest definitely getting seats and mounts, Volvo brand only. The original springs will be fine provided they are not rusted and your OEM springs would be the first choice for a replacement brand if you do have to replace them. Spring steel doesn't wear ou...

They were in fact original! 300,000 Kms. I'm going to check the rest of the lines and hoses and be a little more proactive.
The Charger is a 440 4bbl, Hemi orange 60K survivor. Pics in this link viewtopic.php?p=592761#p592761

Bearings showed up a day early so I changed them this afternoon and the noise is gone! Surprisingly the bearings felt fine when I spun them and were also tight. They'd been making noise since about December. It took about an hour and a half to change both sides, I took a shortcut and didn't remove t...

So hard to tell on those wheel bearings, I just went through this and replaced both of them. FYI I found the best price on FAG's at RockAuto.

br0dy519 wrote: ↑09 Sep 2022, 13:38 I’ve read there’s pretty big variation from aftermarkets to OEM for them, 0.08inch comes to mind from a post I saw. Might explain why it’s so hard for some brands to get pressed in. I’m going to use the freezer and iron pipe trick.

Yet another good reason to use only genuine OEM Volvo parts!

It’s easy and doable, you don’t need a cam tensioner nor do you need to remove the crank pulley. Just mark the old belt with a white marker and mark the index marks with white and transfer the marks to the new belt and away you go. Use only Volvo parts and replace the water pump and pulleys and tens...