Thank you.
That phone angle was directly underneath the fitting. The oxidized reddish rusty looking stuff had collected underneath it

I’m half time at the Volvos location. That and specialty tools (no right mechanic has star tools on hand) and the inaccessibility of this area has all delayed me.

What I did:
Removed airbox, battery and had to leave tray (thanks idiotic hood release cable design), removed the air intake plastic ...

Thanks so much you two!!

Does this mean the only way to replace that hose (if it is the leak) is to remove the AC pump?
Is that hose the connector to the oil cooler?

As titled.
2010 XC70 3.2L 204K miles. coolant leak at driver side of engine. The accessory drive belt there is now soaked.
Several weeks of coolant mysteriously being low after filling. Nothing observed on ground.
We drove up a one mile hill and smoke was coming out of engine.
Coolant leaking ...

Ok...? IS that certain?
I have a 2011 Accord as my daily driver. Thing's fantastic.
It has buy only pre loaded spindle options or massive hydraulic press only... except it's not true.

As Absacte is hinting at... you can remove the spindle and press bearings in and out with an expensive hand loaner ...

Ok. Thanks for reply!
I did a front wheel bearing on a 2004/2005 xc70 I forget year. Was a bolt in type. Pretty easy with correct sockets.
Is this a press fit bearing? Same as 04 or different style?

Thanks!

Finally got an ABS code scanner to work. Turns out I actually have to have the car running to 'connect' otherwise it errors.
Here's the codes stored:

ABS:
U040168 Invalid Data received from Engine Control Module. Event information Algorithm Based Failures
C003A07 - Right wheel speed sensor
C003907 ...

2010 XC70 3.2L I5 engine (non turbo). about 180K miles.

Two issues:

Front brakes lock up car and stutter it to almost not moving on cold start ups. Most starts this happens, after about 1-2 minutes / 100 - 1000 feet this totally stops and never happens again on a long drive, not even once.

ABS ...

Thanks for response.

Uh... I could try that if no other options. I don't trust the subframe as 1 of the 4 bolts attaching it was cross threaded. I had to get a tap specifically in that size and re-tap it. I have not torqued that single bolt all the way up to spec as I was sure it would simple ...

OR - why would my AWD not be working? Is there any quick / magic fix to get it running? If so I could drive it out.
The ABS codes state rear passenger error, but I've read that's a generic error code and doesn't indicate it's actually a fault on that wheel. The wiring to the ABS sensor looked fine ...