I ceased to trust my clicker-style torque wrench also so I set 80 ft/lbs with my old pointer-type wrench.

No painting or powdercoating.
At one point, new oe studs and nuts were installed (different rim installed); things loosened anyway.
Next whole axle w/studs and nuts was replaced with a known good unit (another rim installed); things loosened anyway.
Shoot me!

I'm working on a rear-drive vehicle and the loosening problem is on the rear. The 'hub' is built into the rear axle which I replaced.

I can't seem to keep lug nuts on the driver's rear wheel of a '94 945, even after resorting to an axle change. Something inside must be a tad loose because the rear end toe readings vary every time it is checked. I would have a tough time pinning this problem on spline or differential wear but I am ...

A new clamp was installed with the converter but it still leaks. Apparently, the socket connection at the inlet of the muffler changes shape a bit over the years. The seal is maintained because the ball connection at the exit of the converter changes with it. When a new converter only is installed ...

Has anyone found a sealant which works well at the infernal ball and socket connection between the conterter outlet pipe and the muffler inlet pipe?

It is a pity that Talbotg never let us know how things worked out.

I have the same model car with 120K. The fuel guage, trip information and power locking on the rear doors are permanently inoperative.

The front doors only will lock with the door buttons, but they will not unlock with the door ...