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It lines up but the kit was non Volvo. So I think its the hose..

I cleaned out the port which wasn't that gummed up. I wiped it clean making sure to pull the debris out of the block. I should redo the glove test on the oil filler cap again, to be sure. Car does not burn oil. No I didn't slice the hose, and I doubt the clamp cut it. The only way to tell I think, i...

I tried repositioning the clamp bit it still leaks Maybe the hose?

LOL - things I hate: Oetiker clamps (and the tool used to install them), and being boiled in oil.. About equally..

It's right size hose alright. I'm wondering if possibly I should use a narrower clamp, like teh ones with teh rounded edges, so I can get the clamp closer to the bock? That is, if that will stop the leak.. It's a real PITA to get under there, so I'd prefer not to have to go under the manifold more t...

This is a bit hard to explain but I have been wrestling with a minor oil leak that is coming from the PCV hose that connects to the block next to the canister. I did a PCV job a few years ago and have had a persistent leak from this point. The kit came with a standard worm clamp and I have figured o...

Thanks - I thought any battery disconnect would rest everything. Good to know a short disconnect will just reset the service light. Since the week end is over, I won't have time to attack this again until next weekend, but Who knows - it may reset itself Much thanks to all who responded...

BTW, now, no matter which method I try, the service / oil change light doesn't blink when it is supposed to, during the procedure - now I get a tone instead.. Curioser and curiouser..

No I haven't disconnected the battery - that will reset a bunch of other stuff. But it is looking like this may be my last resort..

No again. Jeez, what is different about my car?

I got a tone using procedure #4, and yours, I didn't get a flashing triangle but I did get a tone... And it didn't work.... Dang

I'm wondering if there is a way to figure out what works with what year car, by checking the VID.

Yeah it looks like it - but what makes my car so different? I mean, if all these ways won't kill the light then what profile for my car for VIDA will work?

"For my 2001 V70 T5, the following works after an oil change (when service lamp on): 1) Press and hold odometer reset button/stalk. 2) Turn ignition key to run (not to start). 3) After Service Reminder Lamp flashes three plus times, release odometer stalk. 4) Turn ignition key to off. 5) Start car ...

"For my 2001 V70 T5, the following works after an oil change (when service lamp on): 1) Press and hold odometer reset button/stalk. 2) Turn ignition key to run (not to start). 3) After Service Reminder Lamp flashes three plus times, release odometer stalk. 4) Turn ignition key to off. 5) Start car a...

yes. the service light. the oil change light. Not the low on oil light. The oil change light that comes on every 3K miles. I wanted to reset it after I did my oil change.... Here is what doesn't work: 1 - with ignition off, press and hold the trip odo "reset" button, and turn ignition to I 2 - Hold ...

2001 V70 T5
I know I know "Just google it". "read the archives."
I have found no less than 4 ways to do it. And none work. I followed every one to the letter.
285 1 1 007071

Ideas? Anybody got the real procedure? Besides VIDA of course?

Thanks. I guess it's off to the parts yard again.

There is a wire spring behind the glass of the side mirror (s) - what is its function? Mine is about ready to break off.. Thanks

I didn't know it has a rectangular profile - much thanks. Off to the dealer next week..

I tracked down my oil leak to the dipstick tube O ring. I have a T5, BTW. What size should I get? one that seals real well. I hope to find one at the hardware store or auto parts store tomorrow.. Thanks

It is worth it to get a new one - I got mine from O'reilly and it was almost the same price as rockauto. $150 for passenger / $100 for driver side

Sorry - yes, replacing the passenger (right) side ended the vibration. The rubber boots were split and there was some slack in the U joint. I believe that was where the vibration was coming from. It was an easy job, but follow the youtube instructions for removal exactly.

It's definitely from up front and definitely dark and oily (BTW - one thing I don't like about synthetic is doesn't have a oil smell)
Pan comes off tomorrow..

The first problem is the belly pan is doing a wonderful job of scattering the drip. First step for me is to pull it and wash everything down then let it drip without the pan on. The last time I had it off, I looked as best I could for a leak, and it seemed to be from behind the PCV box. I ll put it ...

I've replaced both front axles, and much thanks to all for the support. Now on to a minor oil leak-- Maybe a year ago I replaced the PCV box and related hoses, pipes, etc. Actually the job went well, but I think I may have a leak from that little short hose at the bottom of the box. On my kit, the h...

I plan to reuse the original circlip - A lot of stories of problems with them.

The relief that follows once it pops out is euphoric.

Hmm... I think I will cue up Handel's Hallelujah Chorus for when mine comes loose.

SuperH - much thanks.. This is a great explanation. If all goes well this week end, I'll get the work done

I hope so too. Since I don't have a second car, I have to make sure this goes smoothly.. It makes more sense to use a hammer to get it out, like you describe. Or try to get circlip pliers up in there to release the clip.. Judging by the amount of force I used at the parts yard - prying against the t...

I went to the parts yard today and tried to pull out a couple of half shafts. Not very auspicious because neither would come out :-). I'll get some PB blaster and a stouter pry bar, and try again.. But if there is anyone in the Winston Salem area that needs an XC transmission, at Pull A Part (row 33...

Thanks - I'll try that... Job got delayed to the week end.. Best laid plans and all that

That's something I'm good at - over worrying a car repair job.

I thought the C clip was a snap ring, hence the question about getting snap ring pliers in the to compress the C / snap ring. Yeah, I'm concerned about prying against the transmission housing. That sounds scary. I was hoping to put something against the transmission housing the spread the pressure. ...

thanks. I have an aftermarket spare tire tool. The original was a stamped lug nut socket that screwed onto the tow eye. I have a few pry bars - one looks like a huge long screwdriver with an angled tip and i have one of those pry tools use to pull nails out of wood. and a huge crow bar. one of those...

Looks to be an easy job, except for pulling the shaft out of the transmission. Most vids talk about how that can be difficult due to a stuck snap ring. It's hard to see in the vids but is there enough room and access to get some snap ring piers up in there to release the ring?

much thanks and thanks for the heads up on the driver's side shaft - I plan to tackle that one this week end....

Yep, an easy job to R&R the original. Direct drop in, and the only hang up was getting the center bearing to line up. Fiddly little task. And the problems went away with the new part. Much thanks to all who offered advice.

thanks - might be nice on the side mirrors..

Much thanks. From your description and the clicking noises I hear when I rotate the wheel it almost has to be the inner tripod joint. I have bad hearing but I can hear that the sound isn't coming from the wheel area - bearing or CV joint. So by process of elimination ----.

Now to order one...

I finally got a chance to lift the left front wheel off the ground. Life intrudes sometimes. There is definitely rotational play which produces a clicking sound. Hard to tell if it is the CV or the wheel bearing. Grabbing the tire and shaking it from side to side gave a small metallic clicking sound...

I didn't have time to lift the car today but while it was on the ground, I reached in there and twisted, pulled and shook the Axle, and there was no play and no noises. Maybe the wheel should be off the ground? Hopefully tomorrow I can pull the pan and check everything, including steering. I am begi...

could be that, too. Time to lift the car and shake some stuff.... Thanks

hitting 190K. Just getting broken in :-) I drove it for a couple of hours on the highway and noticed the vibration got a little worse the longer I drove and a little worse uphill or under acceleration. I'm beginning to wonder if i just need to have the wheel balance redone. So you think the halfshaf...

I hate problems that come and go, but I have one that I believe is in the right front: It is a vibration and a thrumming noise that seems to come from the right front drive shaft. I have new tires on the front, and they wheels were balanced on installation - at least I paid for it. It sounds a bit l...

After another close call last night, I want to put the brightest possible LED (fender) side marker lights in my 2002 V. Recommendations? Thanks

the lower spring plate looks to be rusted out and your spring has broken through - it is not supposed to come down that far. The strut assembly is unusable. You'll have to replace the whole thing, plus the strut mounting bolts. You should start now soaking them in penetrating oil every day.Yo can tu...

No it does not. But if you're not careful and let the steering / brake assemble fall, it will :-). I left out of the previous post about this: Put some blocks under the steering assembly. and once the big bolts are out of the shock, pull it free. I used some twine to tie the steering assembly to the...

it's not worth it. Just replace both front shock assemblies. If you have a broken spring it is safe to say your shocks are probably worn, too. It's medium difficulty - there is no danger involved and both front shock assemblies can be done in the time it takes to replace one spring. And the job does...

Nice video but the important part isn't shown - how to release the seat back latch.

Here's how: You have to break the seat back release slider - the thing you slide to get the latch to release. Do this by punching in on the rear lower corner of the slider - towards the rear of the car. I used a flat blade screwdriver. A corner will break off and you keep breaking away pieces until ...

You mean the bolster? Thanks, I'll try that. I tried to come in through the back but that didn't work.

2001 V70 left rear seat back release slider is broken. I got a parts yard replacement for the assembly but I can't figure out how to get the seat to release so I can put it in. Advice, references?

My rear upper seat back release lever /slide/ whatever broke and I can't get the seat down. I've watched the vids and read the posts here about it and it seems like all I have to do is push back the upper bolster by the lever, slide a flat blade screwdriver in there and push on the mechanism lever a...

Problem solved and thanks for the tip on the sensor itself. Yep, the housing may have a different number but the sensor itself was the same. And no doubt its in some other cars, too, besides Volvo. A couple of things I learned in the process - the smallest size vice grips are perfect for grabbing th...

Thanks - I am close to a parts yard, and there are several Volvos there to pull from, including two 2001 70t's each with different MAF numbers... I know about those safety torx screws, having fought them on my previous 850, and I have some pliers that do a good job of grabbing the flange. Much appre...

Haw! I wish it was that easy - The official Volvo parts website lists three for my car when using the VID lookup...

Part Number: 30713512
Supersession(s): 9202199

Part Number: 31342362
Supersession(s): 31342414

Part Number: 31342363
Supersession(s): 8670114

I have a 2001 v70 T5. I have found so far, four bosch numbers for the MAF, and even conflicting information about what will fit - one site says the same number fits, yet another says it won't and a person whose opinion I respect says neither and offers a third number. So what MAF should i get for my...

and it was the relay. I got one from another car, and the lights came on. IDK why swapping with another relay didn't make the lights work, but a new replacement did. Much thanks.

Much thanks - I found the pin numbers on the bottom of the relay. I'll get to it shortly.. Much appreciated.

Thanks. I do have a voltmeter. I think I can find the relay pin out - I remember seeing somewhere. I tried swapping with an identical relay but the lights still didn't come on. But I will try the jumper and take some voltage readings.

And on it goes - I was sure it was the PNP switch. I got a parts yard one, (blue and black male 9 pin type) and tested it for continuity on pins 1 and 2. I also tested the original, in the car, and both showed continuity in reverse. So maybe it isn't the pnp switch. So back to the back of the car - ...

still would like to know which switch is which.....

I found out that pins 1 and 2 on the 9 pin connector, are for reverse, so now I can test the switch, which was my original purpose. Test before throwing parts at the car.. I also learned that the AW55-50 transmission is used on several cars - Saab, Nissan, Saturn, and yes, the PNP switch is the same...

I see two Volvo part numbers 9495007, 94950078 for what looks like the same switch for the same transmission. Which one is for my car, and why two numbers?

this is getting silly. My back up lights went out on my 2001 v70T5, so I went to the parts yard to get a replacement. I puled one from a same year / model and it was the female type connector, while my car has the male 9 pin (black and blue) connector. Parts cross reference showed that Volvo 60 / 70...

the wiring chart on page 110 shows on the right, a chart " PRNDL SW ENC" that says R is pins A and B.. I really would like to test my switch before I go further. I THINK the colors are white and yellow, if the illustration of connector 8/37 is correct, which shows connector pins A7 as White (A) and ...

So does anyone know what two wires are for the backup lights, on this type of PNP switch? Would the wiring and wire colors be the same for the female connector version of this switch? I am considering swapping connectors - too cold here to go to the parts yard.

annnd -- trying to cross reference the part. It doesn't show up on a couple of vendors sites with the 9 pin male connector. On ebay, it shows up as s60 only, 2001 -2004. This looks exactly like my switch.. Is it the right one? Also, since cold weather is setting in here, is it worth it to try to tak...

oh well, back to the parts yard. I got the switch with the female connector. My car has the male connector that is part of a clamp on connector assembly...

I'm looking for the wire colors for the backup light switch part... I found the switch 3/71 on the automatic transmission page 110, pdf page 118. It looks like A9 and A3 are the Parking lock out for the starter motor. The only other wire that goes out of the transmission is A8, which connects to A12...

Thanks - I got near cross eyed trying to search for it on the wiring diagrams.

I found a wiring manual, but a - I can't find it in the list of components and b - I can't find which wiring diagram it is on.

Any help?

I got a PNP from the same year / model as mine from the parts yard. I want to test it before I install it, but I don't have the pin out / wiring code. I tried a search but all I got was sites that want you to join. Could someone post the pin out for me? Thanks.

Great, thanks...

both my back up lights are out and I am assuming it is the PNP switch, since I checked the bulbs. I am going to check the fuse (27?), in the back, but I have a small question - with the key in II position, is there power going to the back up lights (so I can check if power is getting to the fuse) wi...

Thanks. I got waylaid by H. Michael - I have a huge tree down in my yard. I'm going to get VIDA working this week end...

I think I have IE11and I have chrome, too. Sorry, I'm a Mac user and this windows stuff is foreign to me..

thanks- where can I find the 2014D_RePack and 2099 patch for Win7P? I checked but the links I found are for 10.

I finally got around to trying to install VIDA 2014D (date - 2015) on my Win7P laptop. I moved the files off the CD to the desktop, and saw they were one patch and 7 tar files. Plus a how to install vid.. which was in Chinese, and I don't read that language at all. Could someone please direct me to ...

I have a V70 with a CEM the PO erased by jump starting the car wrong. Yagger reprogrammed it and the security system, too. I'll vouch for him 110%

you can go on ebay and buy the chip, IIRC Doublebug or Sergey needs an ID 48 to reprogram your Security system. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Glass-Key-T6-Transponder-ID-48-Immobiliser-Chip-For-VW-Audi-Seat-Skoda-Porsche/401401204436?epid=675522210&hash=item5d75604ed4:g:PhUAAOSw2jNbrDvw The chip is a ver...

finally, the 088 MAF seems to have fixed the problem. But as a bit of education, I see there are two, maybe more Bosch MAFs that will fit - what's the difference?

thanks. so far so good. knock on wood. or MAF plastic..

I went to the parts yard and all 2002 turbos have 218 088 MAFs. I did a bit of cross referencing, and my 2001 was listed as using the same MAF as a 2002 turbo. Remembering the PO of my car's workmanship, he could have put in the wrong MAF. I checked my car's MAF and it was a 218 045. And the sensors...

When I did the PCV job a few months ago, I replaced the hoses under the intake manifold. I rechecked my clamps etc. and they all look secure. The only doubtful hoses that I can see are the three boost control hoses. Those are oxidized but still solid. I'm going to hit the parts yard today - co-incid...

trying to get the code read in my part of the state. Hoses look good, though. I thought it was the three turbo boost control hoses, but they are firm...

Thanks. First a look for a bad hose then a sensor. Would you have the contact for the guy who sells the sensor separately?

MAF problem? 2001 Volvo V70 T5 Auto. I’m driving home on the highway, and the check engine light came on, but I felt no change in the engine’s behavior. I stopped and looked under the hood, checked the oil and water, but I saw nothing odd. I went to start it, and it took maybe 5 seconds for the engi...

P0455
ECM‑400C
Fuel tank system, leakage

https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-s70-33/p0442-5714/

IIRC, if you disconnect the battery and wait 5 minutes, the codes will clear.

June wrote: ↑Fri Jun 22, 2018 4:01 pm A worn axle can cause the same trouble if the mounts are good. June

I never thought about that - thanks. The car has a vibration around 50mph that I was blaming on out of balance tires...How to check for worn axle, then?

good point

abscate wrote: ↑Fri Jun 22, 2018 1:56 pm We recommend the above with automatics only, or a good supply of assistants with a standard

Lol! or quick reflexes!. Thanks....

PCV job done successfully now onto the next fix - I have a very short "lag" when I accelerate or decel. In addition I hear a clunk from under the hood. It acts just link a broken motor mount, at least like what previous cars I have owned have had. The upper strut cross brace seems to be loose to me....

Done! It started right up, with no leaks. Almost scared me. In addition to the PCV job, I repaired bad Fuel injector O rings, Rotted hoses, put a clamp on the breather hose at the top of the cylinder head, Cursed the banjo bolt (french profanity seems to work best to get it back in), put an O ring i...

thanks - much appreciated.

I think I did. I was trying to wrench and at the same time, deal with other pressing issues while working on the car, so I kind of forgot how I did it.

So far so good - got the new PCV box installed with minor problems. I had to pull the fuel rail and I'm glad I did because almost all of the O rings were bad. And The small hose that leads from that odd fitting that is held on by a 17MM banjo bolt was rotted. I'm not happy with the fit of the "regul...

Yeah, it was on too tight. Don't know if I can get to the dealership Sat. morning to get the O ring. Or even if the parts dept is open Sat. I may have to find it at an auto parts store, Lowe's, etc. Vac hoses are all good - PO replaced them. And I have to have the car running by Tuesday, so, withe t...

You gently bend the 90 degree to a 45, keeping the radius large so you don't kink it. You have to release it from the fuel rail of course - usually with a tool or a split Bic pen. how and where do I release it from the fuel rail? And is there an O ring in the power steering pump Line fitting? I fou...

Thanks. I tried to find a vid that matched my motor but no luck. Back to work..

I am part way in, and ready to start removing the manifold. My fuel line comes up between the two intake runners and makes a sort of U turn to accommodate a coupling, then it finally connects to the fuel rail. I see some vids that show the intake manifold being moved to one side, but can I do that w...

Thanks - keep 'em coming - I'm still learning..

Thanks - weather permitting, I think I will split this into a two day job...

I didn't get the Pcv nipple (part #30731007) with my kit - can I just clean mine of it is not brittle?

Ready to replace my PCV system, I've watched the vids, got the kit, and am ready to dive in. About how long does the job take, though?

Thanks---- LT is 3.9.. is that good?

Thanks for the vid, but I'm not sure if the readings are comparable, since mine came via the OBD2 port, and the numbers look like they are in different types of measurement. For sure, I never got anything above 200........

PS the 2K RPM reading was 1.12. Ignore the extra decimal point...

I have been trying to find why my 2001 V70 T5's gas mileage is slowly dropping. Nope, not the air filter or plugs, or gas, and no codes so I took a guess at the MAF. The sensor looks fine, and was clean. I believe the PO replaced it, because the torx screws are not the originals - just plain old tor...

so the skins and foam are the same for 2007?

I hadn't thought of using the entire seat back. That would save a bunch of work there. Thanks - great idea....

I am lucky to be close to a parts yard that always seems to have at least 6 donors there. I go there every time they have a new car there. Luck...

2001 V70T5.. Time to do something about the worn fronts seat, and the non working seat heaters. I have read a little about job, from the standpoint of replacing the entire seat, but I read some stories about how the seat controls will stop working, CEM type stuff, that could require a reprogramming ...

so do you have shorts with the modules in or out? If out, did you trace where the offending circuits went to, and see what is on the other end, if it is in place, and if you still get the shorts with the other module in place? I hope the shorts are not in your newly repaired modules.... or a result ...

Find doublebug (Henry) on the board. See if he can reprogram / pair a new remote for you - you will need an OBD2 cable..

I would disconnect any module that was messed with and check the pins very carefully, to make sure they are all in place. Check And check all related fuses and relays, too. To me, that seems to be a good reason why the car just dies on the road. But I suggest contacting Henry. He and his protege hav...

the pull a part yard N of Winston Salem has several volvos to choose from

that works. it looks like the clips are glued on. dang.

Thanks much, Yeah, I tried to clean it but it looks like the PO spilled something petroleum back there, maybe kerosene, and then tried to clean it with something that made it worse.

Much thanks - yes, that is what I have exactly - part #8. If possible, could you send the parts' names? Maybe if I have the names of those clips I can order them from somewhere. The original board's carpet was stained badly, so I found a better board, sans all of the T5 parts on the other board. I t...

Thanks for the response. I couldn't feel a screw on the top side of the board, and I was also afraid to break one if I tried to pry it out.. I'm still trying to find the proper name for it, or a parts or accessory catalogue that lists it.

Ok, then, what is the proper name for that net? I have been trying to find it in a Volvo accessories manual, in hopes there will be some sort of after market install instructions I could read..

On my T5, attached to the board that covers the spare tire well, there is a net. Holding the net in place are several plastic hooks. What holds these hooks onto the board?

Very fiddly and a PITA. My original mirror was 3/4 darkened and I have a vehicle inspection coming up.. I got a used mirror assembly from the parts yard, and removed the mirror - it was just clipped onto the PC board. I wish I had a chance to test it before I put it in, but I didn't know the operati...

The mirror is removed from the donor car PC board. There are two pins on the back of the mirror itself, not the assembly or the PC board, that I want to test from. Before I solder it to the original PC board..... sorry I should have been clearer

I have a used replacement rear view mirror, ready to go into my car. Is there a way to test it? I guess it would be putting DC voltage through the pins but does anyone know what voltage that would be?

Thanks

That's where I went to (Advance auto) and they only had one, and it was $27 plus tax. Not even wally world had it for less - they only had the pricey one, too. That Fram ultra synthetic make your car shinier one...

P1 is off the list. No oil pressure ports on side of the block for the P1 stuff. If this was a big enough deal and wanted to change engines to get this feature then you'd run into the P1 solution requiring the higher P1 intake manifold and also having no power steering pump and A/C compressor in th...

On a P2, Has anyone tried replacing the oil filter mount assembly with an older one, from a P1, so a standard canister oil filter can be used?

I assume you have checked the grounding for your ECU. That is the first thing I look for when electricals go wonky.. There are several cloning services that should do the job for much less than the dealer. Snabb http://www.snabb.us/ will do it for Cloning Service $305 / ECU core charge $75. If you a...

thanks much for the paint data base. very helpful.

First choice is to keep it red, second to change color to match the gray trim. Third is black / charcoal, and cover the window frames and side mirror housings with film to match.

Yeah, but I don't think it will work well on the roof trim. I'm trying to keep the job scope creep down... But it doesn't seem to be working...

And now I'm wondering if Volvo uses a special paint for the roof trim, like a paint for plastics.

Good idea. I have a can of black spray paint for plastic trim already.. I was thinking at one time of repainting my scratched side mirrors housing, but nixed it because of the paint color.

I looked into black out tape. I have a relative whose job is wrapping vehicles with film (buses!) and she told me that small strips have to be cleaned and prepped to avoid adhesion issues, and her opinion was I'd spend as much time on that as I would on stripping and repainting both roof trim strips...

I have a 601 Red Volvo, sans roof rack and the "paint" is peeling off of one side, badly, like almost the whole strip. The other side is fine.. I see a few options: Repaint the one side with Volvo 601 paint. Repaint both sides with some gray color to match the bumper and side mirror trim. Cover both...

The yard wants about $50 per seat..........

Both of my fronts seats are split in the leather and seams, so it's time to replace them. I live near a parts yard, and they usually have several P2's there. I have tan seats (2001 V70 T5). What other seats would go in? I was at the parts yard and it seemed that the color for tan seats is a little d...

I got it open - pull it part way off from the inside, stick your arm down there until you find something that feels like a release lever, push it and the tailgate pops open. There is a manual release hole in the tailgate -- on the bottom edge next to the mechanism. So of course you can't get to it w...

I'll go look again. It was raining when I went out yesterday so I didn't get a good look. But I wonder, if the link rod has fallen of at the handle, if this key release will work.... Rats - no rubber plug anywhere on the outside tailgate and I even took off the license plate bracket. And I have an 0...

No - dang it. I went out in the rain to check for a hidden panel or key lock, like behind the license plate - no such luck.

Hm. I wonder if I can find a tailgate panel from a three row V70 P2 that has an interior tailgate release on it? This is kind of dumb of Volvo, to not have another way of opening the tailgate

Azureblue the battery in the remote powers the circuit board in the key fob. That circuit board's function is to pair with the UEM in the rear vision mirror to provide lock/alarm/courtesy light operation. The ID48 transpnder is in no way connected to that circuit board. With no battery in remote ca...

this is entirely my fault - the tailgate release does not work and I have a good idea why: I recently replaced the locking mechanism and, of course had to disconnect the link rod that goes to the latch release. I thought I pressed it fully back into that plastic socket but I guess I didn't. So how c...

the "programming" is stored in ROM on the key fob, so all you need to do is to put a battery in the fob and have a fully charged battery for the car. A dead battery will not erase the programming - think about it - you don't have to go to the dealer to replace the battery in the fob - you just do it...

I can solder in place. It looks like I can release the connector through the little hole in the bottom of the housing with the unit in place.. That step seems to be the hang up. Thanks

I found several how to vids, and I have the replacement that I pulled. But do I need to remove the assembly from the car, or is it possible to replace the mirror while the assembly is in the car? Battery disconnected, of course.....

Thanks - good to know. off to the parts yard to snag one, then.. When I got the car, the other end of the pipe was unsupported at the intake manifold, with the same bolt that secures the crossover pipe. I'm sure that had something to do with causing the fitting to come loose, too..

Thanks. Nope, I don't want to put in some seal eating crap...

Mine is a P2 and it doesn't have that bracket, but I wish it did. I At least the pump isn't making noise right now. When I saw it leaking, there was mostly bubbles coming out of the fitting, so I guess there is almost none left in the system. So can I just pour in the Pentosin? Dang, that stuff is $...

I had to put in a couple of small bottles of so called universal PS fluid to get home, (didn't do any good, I think all of the fluid was pumped out by the) about a 9 mile drive on the highway. Did I damage the pump or anything?

Thanks. The leak is from the lower metal pipe on the pump. The PO Didn't tighten it enough. Now to refill it....

Yesterday, the car sprung a bad leak at one of the two hoses that connect to the power steering pump. I'm not sure if it is the metal pipe or the hose, yet, but the leak is right against the body of the pump. Since it was dark when I got home, I haven't looked at it while the car is running. I wrest...

It looks like a near match. I can't see any difference at all. But most on line parts places list them as non swappable..... and some that sell the rear muffler only have a brand that isn't good for both years, but another brand that is...

I love being fifteen minutes from a parts yard that always has at least ten P2s in it.. So now my 2001 V70T5's rear muffler is rusted out. The parts yard has a 2006 V70T with a near new system on it, from front muffler to tailpipe. It's a bit confusing trying to cross reference this, especially when...

Thanks for the charging device. I didn't want to disconnect the battery to charge the car. As it turned out it was the fan controller that was the problem. I got the whole assembly and dropped it in, and the battery recovered enough in 18 hours to start the car. Glad I went in there - I found a few ...

Found this thread: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=50104 Very bad timing on this break down... Anything I can do tonight? I am close to a parts yard. What is the year range I can pull from to replace the fan control module? I gather I have to replace the entire unit on the 2...

and at a very bad time. At least I got a jump start and made it home. After getting the car home and shutting the car off, I disconnected the fan at the connector above the radiator that carried power to the fan, and, of course, the fan stops. So what is causing the fan to run all the time? I though...

and, as the alignment guy said, "anytime you change bushings or the whole control arm, you will change the alignment. It doesn't take much at all to throw the alignment out. A 1/16th difference at the bushings will do it."

as jbeebo said better than I could, changing the control arm, or just the bushing, will affect the alignment, because they will change the toe in or toe out, due to the new bushings changing the angle. Something I knew a little about, but didn't realize that even a 1/8" of difference at the control ...

I knew the alignment would change a little, but this was stupendously out of whack, like the car has a direction of its own...

And thanks for the lesson. Live and learn. Still.

Solved- the left side is way out of alignment. I went back through and double checked all of my work, which is all correct, then, someone who knows the mysteries of alignment sciences, showed me how bad the left side is. Much relief - I was sure I had broken something or did the work wrong. So off t...

I found out it has to go in using a specific assembly order: 1- rear bushing. 2 - front bushing. 3 - ball joint. 4 - reattach strut. But you can't let the arm drop too far, because it can rip the rear bushing. Outside of teh strut and the link, there is nothing else that has to be disconnected. I di...

The front bolts are horizontal and the rear mount bolt is vertical. The control arm has to be more or less horizontal to get it into place. Ever done one?

that's what I'm guessing. The old bushings were bad but not gone, and the car tracked straight ahead with no pulling to either side, before I replaced the control arms. I thought maybe the ball joint bolt did not seat right into the control arm, but that's not it either. It feels like something shif...

No - that I missed. I will get it aligned once I make sure there is nothing wrong with the install. The sudden shift from driveable to "this thing is going 20 degrees left, from where I have it pointed" (and back), makes me think there is something I missed. After that scare, I drove the car home wi...

No I didn't do an alignment, and taking loose the tie rods is not necessary for this job. I replaced the control arms because the bushings were going. A misalignment wouldn't come on all of a sudden and only under power, then go away when the power is backed down - it would be a steady pull to one s...

no I didn't undo the tie rods. Everything is fine at lower speeds and the problem goes away when the car slows back down. It could also have occurred when a went through a small pothole while accelerating. I sort of remember that.

I know it's not the pads. I tested them before I took the car out, and lower speeds. The problem happens under moderately hard acceleration. I know what a pad grab feels like, and this is more like somebody yanking the steering wheel to the left..

very dangerous. What sort of pix? Everything looks right and bolted up right, but I can go take some pix right now....

I replaced both control arms on my 2001 V70 T5 and I thought I reassembled it by the book. But when I took it for a test drive, under 3/4 acceleration the car pulled hard to the left. Scary as hell. Driven carefully, the car doesn't pull. I am guessing that I did something wrong with where the ball ...

Having a second thought about repainting the original trim to match the gray body trim. Does anyone know what color Krylon (or maybe some other rattle can available at an auto parts store) matches the Volvo body trim?

much thanks. Off to the parts yard I go.. better good black trim than a lousy reddish one

Thanks for saving me a hassle. I tried to redo the same roof trim on my 855 with no success. A real pain to remove and thoroughly clean and prep and still it came out ugly. I was lucky to find another wagon with good trim to replace what I had.
Not so much luck with a red wagon. Maybe black, instead?

My roof trim strip is peeling, and I'm looking at using trim tape instead of paint, to refinish it. Has anyone tried that, and has anyone found a tape color match for Volvo Red? Or maybe the shade of grey Volvo uses on body trim?

That I had no problem with. Another question, though, how much grease should be in there? Everything was well coated with grease, and the grease looked clean. I suspect the PO replaced the inner and outer boots, too they were in near new shape. I'm not confident with that jubilee clamp. I got it bac...

Thanks. Job done - the bearing came out of the inner hub, so it was just a matter of rotating the half shaft and pushing it back in...

The circlip is under the inner boot? Do I need to separate the half shaft from the hub/ rotor assembly?

Help needed quick... I was replacing the A arm on the passenger side and somehow the hub / rotor assembly got partially pulled out of the transmission during the work. The splines from the half shaft are still engaged in the transmission - I can turn the rotor and hear the transmission make noises. ...

Thanks. I was lucky enough when I went to the parts yard to find the mirror assembly already removed from the donor car. Thanks for the caveat about not using a long blade to remove the donor mirror. I hope today I can take apart the donor rear view mirror assembly..

yeah, I know. He did some serious magic on my ECU....

could you tell me / refer me to how to do that?

thanks for the tip, but the donor car didn't have any keys. It would be much easier to change the fob than the circuit board in the mirror, for sure.

Besides, my fob quit working when I changed it's battery. Next on the list....

(2001 V70 T5) I have a defective automatic rear view mirror. I've checked out the vids on replacing the glass only, how to separate the old mirror from the circuit board and transfer the CB to the new mirror, etc... I can get the glass from a parts yard, and there is one question I could use an answ...

Thanks. I think I'll find a kit that has bolts with it. Better safe than sorry. .I went to the parts yard and practiced on a car there. Getting the bolts out wasn't impossible, but it took some strength with a breaker bar to get them loose...

Much thanks.. Most I've seen have no ball joint. And my ball joints test OK, using the shake the tire, and pry bar tests. They seem pretty tight..

Is it safe to reuse the bolts if I use locktite?

thanks. I tried a few google word combos but got more ads than info. Maybe this will get better links..

I asked for some advice on the point of vendors using the same photo of a CA. Which would lead a person to believe that they were selling the same CA, but at different prices. So, if a vendor has one for, say, $50.00 and another vendor, especially one that is a "name" part maker, is selling it for t...

(2001 V70 T5) My front control arm bushings are shot, especially the one at the front of the CA, so I'm preparing to replace them. I found replacements at all sorts of price levels. and materials, like aluminum and what looks to be steel. And comments about bushing rubber quality too. What I dislike...

Put on the belt first, then try to A/C system. If it doesn't come on, jump the pressure switch , but only for as little time as possible, to see if the clutch engages with no noise, and the compressor comes on, again, with little noise. You are checking for bearing wear and clutch wear, here. I thin...

Thanks - yeah, is the whole assembly the same..

no idea what brand they are, but I think they are Volvo.. My front springs are shorter, fatter (spring wire) and larger in diameter than some other Volvos I have seen. Thanks for the advice.....

I have a 2001 V70 T5. This past week, a friend of mine's 2003 S80 got T boned. He replaced the front struts and various strut assembly parts last fall, and he told me I can have them if I want them. So would they be a good swap for my car? Thanks

oragex - sorry my bad - I meant the rubber part. Thanks. I'll watch for rust on the parts yard parts. I saw one that had Konis on it a while back. I hope it's still there..

beigg - Glad to know it's corrosion. Thanks

First, many thanks to doublebug's West Coast protege for getting my 2001 V70 T5's CEM reprogrammed. By wifi from some 3000 miles away yet. That's truly weird to be sitting in your car while some guy on the opposite coast is controlling the car - lights going on and off, door locks clicking, etc.. Bu...

Thanks - good to know... Every bit of info helps...

2001 V70T5. Sorry

I see a bunch on ebay. Are they all the same? Software rev., etc?
Thanks

First steps taken. New un-programmed key needed and something to be done to the junkyard CEM. Yagger is very helpful and patient. So far, everything that has to be done to make it run is doable, but there are a lot of hoops to jump through..Going deep into the weeds......

not complex, just full of bumps .... IC work is simple for me as long as it isn't surface mount..

I have a junkyard CEM already. I don't know if it was tried in the car, but i think my mechanic would sell me his for a nominal cost.

Henry passed the job onto "Yagger". No response from him yet..

Precopster- thanks for the information. The junkyard CEM is just one to be wiped and reprogrammed. I know it won't work. I may try to buy the almost working CEM from my mechanic. So could you tell me more about DICE/ VIDA- I mean, will it program a CEM from scratch? .. I have no problem with getting...

I sent Yagger a PM. Looking forward to his response....

I just sent Henry my email in a PM. I'll be looking for his response. Much thanks.

When xemodex says the CEM software is fried, I will take their word for it I have a junkyard CEM, but I gather it will have to be reprogrammed from scratch.

The car runs! Mechanic says the engine sounds great. BUT not with the reman CEM. The replacement CEM came in, and it didn't work either so mechanic pulled one from a parts car and jiggered the starter relay and he got the car to run. Apparently, the original CEM software is too scrambled to clone an...

Yeah - I was Xemodex who sent my mechanic a reman reprogrammed for my car CEM. That was bad. Oops. A new one on the way. It was a scare, because the bad module made us think the whole computer system was blown. Nothing worked when it was put in. I'm really happy one of his mechanics didn't give up o...

Just when you think the thread is dead.... My mechanic calls me and tells me the replacement CEM is defective. They dropped in a borrowed one and the car lit up, including the instrument panel, CC controls, radio, etc........ Won't start of course. Replacement on the way...

Lol! Nope, I don't scare easy. :-)... I'm one of those that has a hard time admitting defeat.. Yeah, I read that thread.. the third post down from ericy, is the one that prompted my question about quality of the hardware... Maybe find one to rent or borrow for a month? Still waiting on news from my ...

So where do I get a dependable VIDA system for the car? I did a search and found several from $85 to $170, and a few warning s about sub par hardware and sellers. Computers are no problem for me and I have a couple of laptops.... Much thanks for your advice.. Big help for me. I'll do a search. Gotta...

I happen to be a cheap bastard myself. I gave the work to my mechanic because we both thought this would be a simple two hour job for him. My mechanic is giving a bit of a break, because he knows my situation, but I may just do as you say and DIY. What sort of scanner should I get,when you say "dece...

ouch but probably true.. I should get a call from my mechanic tomorrow. I'm going to ask him if he is using VIDA for the car...

I'm pretty good with electronic stuff, so If I had VIDA, I would take a whack at it.

I think the transmission has been replaced - there is evidence of the engine being held in place with a top frame and the sub frame dropped. So what I think is going on: #1 my fault...Based upon what I was told by the person who sold me the car and his mechanic, I believed that the CEM was the only ...

I think my mechanic is doing that. He has the car. He thought it was maybe a blown instrument panel..

I picked it up for peanuts. 178K miles and in good shape. And red. Very red..... - apparently, somebody jump started it wrong, and blew the CEM. I has been replaced and synced with the ECU and the by xemodex. It does not start, the instrument panel doesn't light up and the Climate control is a bit w...

like half.. :-) With new P6s, yet. By sheer luck, I found the mechanic who knows the car, pre breakdown, and he vouches for it and the seller. He did work and drove it before it got messed up... At 178K miles, no idea of the timing belt replace mileage, though. vs a 1998 XC with 154K, only synthetic...

I do have a second, but it has a bad rear main seal.. But the price is very tempting....

comprehende "dice"?

correction - my bad - it is the CEM that went bad. I think it happened because the battery was drained all the way down. So this leads to another question - can the CEM be cloned from the original?

2001, beautiful shape BUT... Somehow the owner fried the ECM. From what I have read, it has to be programmed for the car specifically, then synced to the car. I got quotes from Volvo of $100 and $200 respectively. The present owner pulled the ECM (under the dashboard?) and attempted to replace it wi...

The thing you find - a red 2001 T5 with a trashed ECM for $700!. Pretty car,but apparently, somebody tried to jump start it and scrambled the programming.... I don't know if I want to take this one, but I'd be happy to send the contact information. It's West of Winston Salem, NC.

Thanks. I'm looking in the Raleigh, NC area right now... My CL area is not so good for Volvos

I am I getting the suggestion that the 2001 - 2002 models should be avoided?

Thanks. I think I will pass - I am sure I can get the shop to inspect it, but it's not the good deal I thought it originally was.
So I'm around Winston Salem, NC.... Anybody got a wagon for sale?

I may have a deal killer here- The instrument cluster on the car is dead. Well, it will blink if you smack it. Non Volvo shop said $275 to replace it, but Volvo shop says that data has to be transferred to the replacement unit and that drives the price up to $500. Also I was told the loose oil fille...

But could I assume that if the transmission has not developed trouble by now, that is will be solid?

I checked for blow by on the oil filler cap and raced the engine with the cap off, to see if smoke would come out, but none did. The cap didn't dance, either. But, yeah about the transmission. Since I can't drive it, that is what puts me off.

My 1994TR wagon is on its way out. Leaky Rear main seal, like a half a quart every 400 miles, and it's breathing kind of heavy at 230K. So I have $2k to spend, (times are rough around here) and I found a 2002 2.4T wagon in great exterior shape, kind of rough interior- dried seats. 220k Miles. New Ti...

No, I don't use synthetic. It's a near 250K car. I use 10/40. So I need just the intake manifold gasket and a new hose? "Before diving in, remove the intake pipe at the turbo and see if the metal tube the vac line going to the box is clogged. Also pull on the large & small rigid lines as they tend t...

Thanks - I'll check those hoses.
I pulled out the dipstick and slid a 5/8" hose over the dipstick tube that vents under the car...

In the meantime, what can I do to relieve the crankcase pressure? i read that about a modded filler cap but couldn't find anything about how to mod it..

thanks for the link - and well written too..

Thanks. Local auto parts store has 5/8 fuel / hydraulic line. I hope the can doesn't look that bad, but I will replace it, then.

About six years ago, all the the PCV parts were professionally replaced, but I have excess pressure again, with all the symptoms of a clogged PCV system. So under the manifold I go. I plan to put in the larger 5/8" hose, but can I reuse any of the existing parts? I'm not being cheap, but No need to ...

That's what it's coming down to. A plain old OEM hose... No room to push, shove or wiggle up in there. Lesson learned..

I tired the boil the hose idea and the hose won't slip over the flange. The hose I got is pretty think, looks like a four ply. Maybe thsi is a cheap variety hose? I'm still open for suggestions..

I'll try boiling it, too. Right now, anything to get it installed.

you must have tiny hands!

Finally got around the replacing the turbo coolant hose on my 95 855T. That about 8 inch long L shaped hose. Some lousy mechanic put in a hose that was the same diameter on both ends, so the clamp cut through the hose on the small end and caused the leak.. So I bought what I thought was a quality na...

So about half the work can be done from the top? I see in the vid that the coolant is dripping from the bottom of the turbo. Mine doesn't drip from there - it drips through the engine mount bracket... I am guessing that my leak is coming from the same hose that Robert removed in the vid - that is, i...

Neil- so how do I get in there?

You could be right here. I just crawled under the and there is a drip coming through the driver's side engine mounting bracket- the one below the turbo- through the hole in it. I can't see what is above it, and it is possible the metal tube could be resting on the upper side of the bracket. I see tw...

Sorry, didn't mean to be terse. i gotta quit posting before the coffee soaks in.... I checked everything top side coolant tank, heater hoses, but the drip is on the other side of the car, after the radiator, and the drip is somewhere along the transmission cooler lines - driver's side, from front to...

Thanks, but you're scattershotting. Only one of what you mention is under the car and as I said, I looked there.

Low coolant light came on yesterday and the coolant was gone. I looked under the car and saw a drip from the two aluminum pipes that run on the driver's side of the car, front to back. I'll guess they are transmission cooler lines. I can't see the origin of the drip, but I can tell it's more towards...

I figured I'd have to do it. The system was redone about 6 years ago by a shop, so I will assume the can can be cleaned out and reused. I'm also going to do the bigger hose mod, too. Thanks for the input.. On the other topic, I think upgrading to a planar O2 sensor is worth it. I posted about it a m...

Probably it - I had too much CC pressure and thought it was the PTC (?) valve in the intake manifold by the turbo. I cleaned it and the oil loss through the rear main seal went down. But there's not much oil spray at all.. I'll check for pressure in a couple of days...

Yeah, weird.. I accidentally drove my car with the dipstick not pushed all the way in, and it has more power. Well, the boost came on quicker, definitely livelier. I haven't a clue if this is normal or a symptom of a problem, but there it is.. Comments? BTW, I drove an 800 mile Round trip with the n...

as a wrap, I have a small increase in MPG's, better on the highway. I am not sure if the trip computer (MPG's , outside temp, Miles before empty, etc.) is hooked up to engine CPU, but I see a quicker refresh rate in instant MPG read out. Also when coasting with my foot off the gas, the display drops...

I don't know about that,but I got the 02 kit with the official Bosch splicer, just to be sure. As I said, putting new pins on the end of the wire and re using the old connector housing would have been easier. The kit didn't say how long the wire is, but it is plenty long for the front sensor. I shou...

I've read those. The planar is an improvement over the thimble type. Less current draw on the heater and quicker response. Seems to be working fine so far.

as a follow up, the Bosch splicer that is included in the kit is fiddly as heck. If I had to do it again, I would get the connector pins and splice them on to the wires instead. I haven't had enough drive time to see if the planar is any improvement, but the old original about 100K thimble sensor wa...

I got one to replace my front sensor (1994 850T). This came with a splicing block, but the wires are longer than the stock connector, so no splicer is needed. That is, unless I can figure out how to remove the pins from the O2 connector.... I'd rather be neat and use the connector block and new pins...

that's what I thought, too - a larger hose won't make much of a difference if it still has to breathe through a small hole..

Theory question: What would happen if that hole was enlarged? That is, would it have the same effect as putting in a 5/8" hose from the PCV can?