A few other things to look for if you have the burning fumes problem.... all were true in my case and I was never sure which contributed most to the problem cos I fixed em all at pretty much the same time......

1) Leaky Brake Pressure sensor - its mounted onto the side of the master cylinder and if ...

That's the odd thing that I probably should've mentioned earlier.

All the brake lamps are fine but I have noticed the following......

I have the common problem with my ignition switch whereby it doesn't spring fully back into position 2 after I start the engine. I have to physically turn it back ...

After washing my car a couple of weeks ago, the Lamp Failure Warning Light came on.

I've checked all the relevant bulbs and everything is OK but the lamp won't go out.

Any ideas?

Up until recently I was getting through a hell of a lot of oil.

No major external leaks to speak of and no white smoke, so I was struggling to understand where it was going.

I've been using synthetic oil, usually the good stuff with viscosity ratings of 5w30 or better.

However, a couple of months ...

I have exactly the same problem.

I replaced the Volvo blades on mine with Bosch and they seem a tiny bit better, but still not brilliant.

The only other thing I can think of would be to remove the metal bracket that the arm is attached to and "manipulate" it a bit to increase the pressure on the ...

I've ordered the part (its an EBD Pressure Sensor apparently) from FCP Groton and should be receiving it any day now.

It still amazes me that its cheaper to order swedish spare parts from an American supplier and have them shipped over to the UK, than it is to collect them from the Volvo dealership ...

I may be misunderstanding Bigshot's advice in his posting, but he seems to be stating that the timing marks (or any other kind of alignment for that matter) on the Cam pulleys, are irrelevant.

If this is the case, and if you have had to remove the pulleys, how do you ensure correct timing of the ...

Might be worth taking a look at the plastic end caps at either side of the Rad. Eventually they start to fatigue as a result of constantly expanding and contracting. Hair-line cracks can develop that allow tiny amounts (at first) of coolant to escape.

The thing to look out for is white calcium-like ...

Rothgar, how did the Gasket change go?

I'm assuming you managed to remove the Inlet manifold in the end :wink:

If not, or if you still have everything in pieces, I'd highly recommend servicing / replacing the PCV system while your at it.

The inlet manifold needs to be removed to do this and ...

I'll have a look on VADIS later, but I'm fairly sure that my T5 has a seperate Oil cooling rad.

Great tip about flushing the matrix. Perhaps Matthew could clip it out and paste it into the Repair database. It might be useful, even if just to help people to do a thorough job of flushing their ...