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Is your downpipe stock or aftermarket? I get that code on my aftermarket DP’s if I don’t use an O2 defouler/spacer. You may need to use an angled one on the stock DP. Install defouler, clear 0402 & forget about it. Edit: You will probably also want to get the short O2 socket from HF. https://www.har...

I would make a bar that mounts to the actual bumper cover mounts that are hidden behind these plastic plugs (one on either side). 29D8F6F8-F93F-4710-B164-AD58CF27DA1C.jpeg I made a mounting bar for dual light bars & mount it here. I’d need to measure, but I think my bars are 24” long each, something...

I was wondering the same thing - those galvanized 5x9 uhaul trailers are heavy unloaded . I once towed that exact trailer with a 1,500lb 6x6 Polaris ATV in it, a plow, & a few other odds and ends. It definitely felt like the car (04 XC70) was maxed out, but I was within the limitations (barely). I h...

abscate wrote: ↑Sun Oct 18, 2020 9:50 am

- Pete - wrote: ↑Sat Oct 17, 2020 7:47 pm Ooh Ben, I think wait for a set of 18” Atlantis XC90 take offs to surface & run those.

Atlantis are excellent in deep water

And they also have an excellent song about irony.

There’s a set of Thors for sale up here for like $100 with rubber. Doubt there’s much life in the tires, but still that’s cheap!
Wait long enough and what you’re looking for will pop up

Ooh Ben, I think wait for a set of 18” Atlantis XC90 take offs to surface & run those.

I’d use the tensioner and throw away the actual pulley and use an INA/Volvo one instead. I know it only touches the serpentine belt but if that pulley bites the dust prematurely and takes out your serp belt it can (and has been documented to do so) get sucked into the crank pulley. Edit: I too have ...

I wouldn’t be too concerned about the trans. I do believe you can opt to keep the torque limiting in 1st & 2nd, though I would generally just take it easy in those gears regardless of this topic. The 6-speed auto transmission you have is pretty tough, just don’t be a numpty with how you dole out the...

Which engine do you have in your V70?

Set up an inexpensive vacuum/boost gauge and see what the max boost psi comes out at. Many years ago Heico was a big name, especially amongst the R crowd. If your V70 is an R or T5 it’ll make around 12psi in stock form. If it’s 2.5T it’ll make 7-8psi. If it’s greater than those numbers it’s got a tu...

Top plate where your 1/2” ratchet goes is 1/2” thick....aluminum. That’s welded to the “socket” which is made of 1/8” wall thickness aluminum. Each gap is .25” wide and .61” tall. Height of the socket only is 1.58”, 2.08” with the 1/2” top plate. Outer diameter is 4.51”, inner diameter is 4.23”. A f...

Today I had the steering coupler replaced which hopefully fixed the odd steering wheel kickback I've been encountering in corners.... Anyone know why I couldn't draw it in with the bolts? Aluminum will bend? Opinions wanted! Is it worse on left or right hand benders? Our 06 XC70 had a similar feeli...

No problem, I’ve been meaning to put my thoughts together in a thread regarding it, just haven’t gotten it done yet. Your post gave me an opportunity to jot some things down. A new Pierburg TCV is $20-30, I wouldn’t bother buying a used one of unknown functioning. Just get the standard Pierburg TCV,...

Out of curiosity, what year? I had some toils along these lines, but I was only boosting to 6-7-ish PSI, when I normally boost to 15 PSI on our “Stage 1” 04 XC70. For what it’s worth, 2.5T LPT should make ~7-8psi in stock form/tune. Aside from the low boost, the other stuff you mentioned rang true t...

With the front on ramps, If you have a floor jack (& stands) just prop up the rear end so it’s ‘about level’ and carry on. Proper fill procedure is “fill til it dribbles out, then evacuate ~100ml”. This is why it’s recommended to have the car level. It’s not the end of the world if you can’t get it ...

Correct: the front half of the rear final drive is an electronic clutch type mechanism that requires Genuine Volvo AOC oil, link here - https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-aoc-haldex-gear-oil-1-liter-31325136 The rear half is your ring and pinion gear and requires nothing special, just synthetic ...

At 167k it probably isn’t the CV axles, but don’t rule them completely out just yet. CV axles usually go around 220-230k miles. At speed take it out of gear and put it into neutral to see if the sensation lessens, goes completely away, or no change at all. The boot on the front driveshaft CV joint i...

Here are a couple possibilities: The front CV joint on your DRIVESHAFT has a torn boot and/or the grease has escaped or solidified. There is also a good chance one or both of your front CV axles CV joints are bad. If you end up determining this is the culprit I would encourage you to resist the temp...

If the “shock” or “damper” doesn’t appear wet from oil leaking out you may likely be able to simply replace the spring seats. If the top bearing plate/mounts are still smooth, tight, and not gritty feeling (and don’t exhibit axial play) they may still be ok. Original Volvo top plates are very durabl...

I would keep your options open for tunes & spend plenty of time reading up on the various tuners websites. Even submit questions to them if anything is unclear. After trying a few different tunes myself, I feel Polestar is a bit overpriced for what you end up with (compared to other tuners software)...

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/europe ... nospillkit


You’ll notice the strangest phenomenon occurring - you’ll actually begin to get excited as you see your P2 closing in on its next oil change since you get to use this wonderful invention again!

If the vibrations are felt UNDER LOAD only look to your front CV axles first. Replace with new GKN/Lobro or low mileage used GKN/Lobro. All the Chinese and remanufactured CV axles are subpar and have dismal lifespans.

With a section of pipe in there vs a resonator it really doesn’t change the loudness very much at all. These I5’s sound very nice with a little relief applied to the original exhaust system.

You’ll have a little deeper tone and a slight “pop” on decel, other than that, not much change at all.

You need to be using a TORX driver or bit for that fastener. Hex/Allen keys will round it out.

Look at the inside face of the sprocket for oil/residue (opposite side of the yellow hub). As in, the opposite side of where the cogs are, inside the wheel. You may need a small mirror or inspection camera. If there is no evidence of oil leaking I would leave it alone. Jimmy57’s CVVT cutaway thread ...

Very good!
Another thing to consider is to weld a bung on the underside of the BG for ease of gear oil changes.
Get you a magnetic drain plug for it (same size as oil pan drain plug) so you can actually get all the debris out vs trying unsuccessfully to suck it out.

SuperHerman and darrylrobert (and many others) have done the contactless ETM rebuild. There is a contactless rebuild procedure for the throttle pedal on the early P2’s as well.

viewforum.php?f=12&sid=ea9c121068a4e88c27ae65b8de1d62c0

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/it ... 5391614504

Amazing work of art!

Thanks for following up Michael!

I think one of the coons I hit may have popped mine as well

With it needing all that (and who knows what else), it sounds like round about a $2,000-3,000 VR. M66 alone will not permit it to pull $6k with all its other needs, even if mileage is 130-140k. A lot of the M66’s are beat. It’s too bad, really. I love finding stuff like that that requires patience, ...

If it needs pads and rotors and all four 4C shocks that’s going to set a person back about $2,000 in parts alone. The regulators aren’t a big deal, the electrical gremlins could prove to be a major frustration. Sounds like it may need a UEM and maybe a siren/alarm module in addition to 1 or 2 other ...

Sounds promising.
How many miles total?
Get a peek at those service records if you can and post them.

Told ya

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=91334 Big things to consider on a VR: 1. Suspension - 4C shocks die at fairly low miles & are expensive and hard to find. Non-4C replacements are available but equally expensive & you'll have a significantly harsh ride ALL the time vs being ad...

Just for clarification, the VVT hub on the exhaust cam does have an 0-ring on its inner bore which is intended to seal "around" the end of the exhaust camshaft. I've tried a couple of the eBay "guaranteed to fit" VVT o-ring replacements and haven't had success. I'm just saying, that in some cases, t...

That’s a breather hose that goes from the top of the black box (oil trap) to the cam cover. You should be able to replace it without removing the intake plenum/manifold, so that’s good news. That hose will vent oil/vapors all over the top of your engine so get on it soon if you can. If you’ve never ...

I actually swerve towards the prickly critters. Anyone know what the difference between a Porsche & a Porcupine is? It can only be one of so many things. Engine oil, PS oil, blood (maybe that front mount of yours is filled with the such?). In my case, it's definitely blood/(unintentional) animal spl...

Just need to get you a new filter cup mate

Mine came with the software and the DiCE interface (cable), as most will. I run it on an old motorcycle tuning laptop I have that runs Windows 7. It’s actually faster than my new SSD Windows 10 laptop. Anyhow, my included software worked, but many resort to using a “patch” which I believe RickHalePa...

I have a spot on my 04 XC70 front subframe that is identical in every aspect aside from location. It’s more of a splatter and continues down my belly pan. It is truly all but impossible to remove also. I’ve tried several solvents. If it was petroleum based it would respond to solvents. I’ve finally ...

More like $100ish for 2014D and a DiCE interface. Poke around on eBay & spend plenty of time lurking around the ViDA forum. https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=40 A couple years ago I got en el-cheapo DiCE unit with included 2014D software for I want to say around $80 and it’s w...

Is this XC70 blue in color? I thought only the Ocean Race XC70's had the 4C shocks, but I could see an amply appointed standard one having 4C. Look at the struts very closely. If they have wires going to the bottom of the "shocks" it is 4C equipped. These are very expensive to replace, even cutting ...

Seems pretty good to me. Under $2k USD for an under 140k P2 Haldex AWD XC that’s had the BG replaced sounds fine. Brakes - Zimmerman rotors and Akebono ceramic pads should run $300ish & is about the best setup without changing calipers etc. ViDA is definitely intimidating, but not so bad once you’ve...

If in doubt, just apply 12v to it manually with a small battery so you can hear if it is operational & also so you know what type of pump sound to be listening for (say, if your engine was running & you were trying to hear the pump).

For the small lines (TCV, CBV, etc) try to get 4mm ID with 3mm wall thickness silicone tubing. Just buy it in a big roll and use what you need. I like to mark mine with the colored electricians tape to match the original vacuum lines. If the BG isn’t leaking, check &/or change the gear oil, verify i...

I don’t, and I clean my bolts with brake parts cleaner.

If you hit the top nut with an impact you honestly don’t need to counterhold with the torx. But you shouldn’t need to take your original strut apart so most likely not going to be necessary. That spring seat is new (I checked my maintenance records) and the top plate was still tight so you should be...

The first time you replace anything is always the worst. In hindsight it honestly won’t seem that bad. The worst part is moving all the stuff that’s in the way. You’ll ultimately need to remove your airbox, front bumper skin and radiator support (black boomerang shaped thing above which are mounted ...

There’s always something to fix

If you repair your parking brake, I’d encourage you to shop for new expanders/actuators as well as shoes & springs. You should be able to get a whole kit. The expanders tend to rust to the point their hinge (which is just a rivet) seizes.

The top plate was not bent before I put it in the box. If the box isn’t obviously damaged, you can assume that the top plate is fine. The plate does have sort of a domed shape to it. No, the studs do not all point perfectly vertically. This is normal.

It would be so cool to completely renovate it. If I had unlimited money, how cool would it be to drop it off at a place that rebuilds it from the inside out. New electronics, new motor, maybe a 5-speed, new interior/exterior. The works. Wow that would be cool. I often think about this! Honestly, if...

I think there’s 4 or so exhaust makers. IPD has one also. Eight8fab makes some pretty awesome DP’s and will even do a full exhaust, but he is back logged quite a bit. 350 WHP? That would be pretty awesome from a LPT. If you have the money you can pull it off. I’d fear for reliability though. Not so ...

Not bad at all for VC AWD. What all did you do to the rear final drive?

Looks great with the Peg's. 17's or 18's?

Good shopping list, but don’t forget a downpipe. You’ll notice more oomph per dollar with a downpipe vs only exhaust. Obviously the two paired together make for a nice increase. Definitely shop for ECU tunes first before throwing hard parts at the car. If you do a DP and exhaust just know that it wi...

Volvo original winter mats are by far thee best available. There are some aftermarket winter mats, “Rensi” is the manufacturer. They are alright, but definitely not as good as the original winter mats. I run Volvo winter mats all year round. The carpet mats are all hanging in my basement, clean as t...

Even cheaper yet is Valvoline MaxLife ATF. Even Jimmy57 endorses it for A/W AT P2’s. It’s available at Walmart for around $17/gallon. I’m currently transitioning between Toyota T4 and it.

I saw that too. It’s packed pretty darn well in a box that an actual strut came in. I think it’s integrity will be preserved. I also had a USPS package that was supposed to arrive today that is delayed. I have noticed shipments taken a day or so longer than expected.

Toyota TIV (T4), the JWS 3309 is the spec you’ll often find that the Aisin Warner trans’s prefer.

It’s typically around $6/qt up here, sold in cases of 6/case.

That’s been my experience with broken bleeders too - cracks off just below the hex. So long as it’s not oozing brake fluid you should be able to shoot your wire through the nut and then just build it up and fill it in. Don’t let it cool, try to back it out while it’s still hot. The big downfall is i...

If the nipple just broke off your best luck will be to weld a nut to the top of what remains of the bleeder. Think rosette/plug weld. The heat generated is almost always enough to get things to free up. If that fails, (which it usually doesn’t) reman’d calipers are pretty inexpensive as long as they...

My pleasure!

That’s only on the higher end models. It is only to be used once your fuel light comes on. It transfers an imaginary 5 gallons from your auxiliary fuel tank to your primary.



It just unlocks the fuel door.

Have you verified that the ball joints are bad? It's a pretty quick thing to check, if not. I do all my timing belt (et al) at 80k intervals. I'd just do you next one and (water pump/coolant) just shy of 200k. Read up on water pumps also. Basically anything that touches the timing belt needs to be o...

Turns out I was wrong. 8667253 A. Does have spring, spring seat is good, top bearing plate is good. I don’t know what shipping will run you, but you can have it (and the LSM) for the cost of shipping. Guys, I'm sorry I didn't read this through. I missed this post entirely. Pete, I sent you $45 on P...

There’s no need to use/buy the special ball joint tool. I have one you can use for free (shipping) if you really want to give it a whirl. Personally I think it’s easier & faster to just put the control arm in a vise and use a large socket to tap the ball joint into the CA. Obviously you’ll want to l...

My 04 XC has been doing it for 10 years!
04 V70 AWD & V70R have done it as long as I’ve owned them also

Hi, I cant find the codes or reset the check engine light. I've tried holding the read button and pressing the light (fog?) button. No messages, I've used my obdII reader, it showed no codes (DTC) nor would it reset the light. It runs like it should, the only issue I have is that I have to refuel v...

My clocks have a mind of their own. In a months time I swear they are about 10 minutes fast.

The XC arms are easier than the V70/S60 shorter arms to press new bushings into. However...it is easier yet to just put in new arms w/bushings already installed. You need to get the bushings “clocked” exactly right and also set to the correct depth in their respective holes. I debated on saving the ...

I would replace springs (Lemforder) in a suspension redo. I think he meant “Lesjoförs”, and HD for XC springs. Maybe I’m wrong though. I neglected the ATF! Evan is right, Toyota T4, Aisin 3309 ATF, even Jimmy57 endorses the use of Valvoline Maxlife ATF. I recently have been dabbling in switching ca...

I think I was referring to using the needle fitting to squirt grease into the CVJ endcaps’ pinholes. The hanger bearing just get it as good as you can. They rarely go bad. There’s a little room, but not much.

That’s actually not true. Some had them, some didn’t. My 2004 XC, 2004 V70 AWD both have them yet my 2004 V70R does not. I’ve never checked my 2001 XC.

Also, take advantage of FCP's parts guarantee. For example, I've done 3 timing belt (et.al) changes on our 290k XC70 and I only paid for the first set of parts. Very nice!

Techna-Fit makes good SS braided lines for P2's, cheapest on Amazon. Get the fitment/part number off FCP & then transfer it over to Amazon (about $50-60 for a V70R w/4 lines). Dot 4 for brake fluid, I ended up using SuperTech as I went through all my expensive stuff trying to get my bleeders to stop...

Congratulations!
I kinda figured you’d end up with an XC.
Once you get to “stage 0”, check out ECU tunes. I’m running Hilton and IPD tunes on our cars. I like both, but haven’t sampled a Hilton in an LPT yet. Love my stage 2+ in my V70R.

Turns out I was wrong. 8667253 A. Does have spring, spring seat is good, top bearing plate is good. I don’t know what shipping will run you, but you can have it (and the LSM) for the cost of shipping. 05F6549E-BC4B-4F43-AB7F-5276DEBF4AD5.jpeg 18776AEE-DB90-4AE3-A53C-52E683A840C1.jpeg 3904EEC1-CA26-4...

They do come apart. I’d just leave them together though. Clean, blow with compressed air & squirt/pack new grease in there & carry on. New CVJ’s are $75 shipped from Colorado driveshaft & components are extremely high quality, made in Poland and (forgot the other country, but not China. Maybe Turkey...

I’d need to look, but I think I have one off a V70. Should be the same fitment. Pretty sure I have all but the spring, but let me check. If your spring isn’t cracked (usually if they crack its ~1/2 of a coil off the bottom) just reuse it. The strut I (think I) have didn’t look the best, but it also ...

On turbo‘d P2’s the IAT is not built into the MAF. It is on the outlet side of the intercooler, just before the air goes into the intake plenum (pipe). It is also referred to (on turbo’d cars) as the MAP sensor or BPS (Boost Pressure Sensor). Your initial indicated temp at MAF seems abnormally high....

I have an old (functional) LSM for a non-front-fog light equipped P2. Let me know if you still need one.

All the R models had the fancy oil pan. I’m not sure on the T5’s, though.

Good advice above from superherman, as always. Only thing I would add is if you went cheap for your CV axles they absolutely can still be ruled in as possible culprits. GKN/Lobro manufacturers the CV axles for P2 Volvo’s. Personally, I would pass on anything remanufactured or new & of less quality t...

Genuine Volvo or is that for a Dorman?

Look at it closely all the way back & if those are the only cracks, just snip off the end & plug the remaining length back in. There is more than enough length to do so. I’ve done that several times.

If you take the air dam’s off (some had small triangular dam’s under the fog light/washer reservoir) you can possibly get a glimpse of what may be going on. Most of the P2’s only had 1 pump, regardless of if they had headlight washers or tailgate glass washers. This pump is press fit into the reserv...

Very glad to see you are back in business & glad it was a simple fix. Congratulations!

BG is not difficult to remove. Couple somersaults & it comes out without removing anything else...Edit, except of course the passenger side CV axle & a few other easy pieces. The biggest problem people encounter is the driveshaft CVJ’s removal from the 2 flanges. Between the splines on the input sha...

If you’re going to take the pump apart you may as well have the parts on hand to rebuild it. I haven’t rebuilt a pump yet, but I have all my replacement parts ready on the shelf. I will post the link when I find it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/323454791943

This seller ships quickly, very quickly.

Perhaps before diving in and sending bits to Xemodex, it may behoove you to seek out someone locally who can scan your P2 with ViDA. Maybe a thread here & check in on the Facebook pages up in your area, you’d be surprised what fellow Volvo folk will do for others. Or someone who has a higher end sca...

Edited post above ^^^

That was the next step I was begrudgingly approaching - contactless ETA(ETB, per Xemodex) and new wire harness (Theirs comes with the wire harness). I inspected my wire harness and connector at ETA & it was pristine and had no wire tension at the ETA connection. I then went with a new Bosch ETA from...

I can write something up this evening (hopefully I remember!). First, though, did you see if the existing pump responds to voltage? It may be tough for an untrained ear to tell with the engine running, but you can do it that way. Also if you unhook the 2-conductor plug you can apply 12v right at the...

I see no reason to replace the collar sleeve with a new one until you can mate up a bevel gear to receive power from it. I would definitely replace that trans/collar sleeve seal though. One thing you can do very economically to regain RWD is to weld the collar sleeve to the BG input shaft. Just a su...

Did he pull the ECM/TCM out for cleaning & spray lubing the contacts?

I looked & I do have another LSM from a non-front-fog equipped P2 you can have just to verify if replacing the LSM will cease the flickering. To clarify, the LSM I’m talking about has rear fog light button only, no front fog light button. Or just grab the one out of your XC70 to see if it fixes the ...

It was moving and so was I. I only caught a glimpse of the front, drivers side and rear. From what I could see it looked purdy good! But yeah, $8k.....

$8k seems a bit too ripe for me, but this thing truly is amazing. I inadvertently crossed paths with it the other day. Wow. https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/cto/d/minneapolis-collector-condition-volvo/7154546694.html 24D59FAF-4F09-447C-8D36-B781CE32442E.png 5906447E-2B0B-40C5-9E91-63F821C6B343...

Volvo 3073916 should be what you need. They are $20-30 on eBay most of the time. Or find someone parting out an XC70/V70R/S60R or anything (P2) that has factory equipped fogs.

I’d send you my spare but it’s been repurposed.

So if I may, the frequency of the ticking changes with road speed, not engine RPM? Have you done any work to the RWD driveline? I once had a rhythmic ticking that changed with road speed only, sounded a lot like a rock hitting a dust shield (very tinny & easy to dismiss as unimportant). It turned ou...

Looks like some of the replacements for the recalled jack stands also have inferior welds.

SKU 56373

As has been mentioned, thoroughly evaluate any populated DTC’s. The presence of breadcrumbs should be in a trail formation. This trail is a good thing to follow. Also don’t forget to re-check any recently performed work. Shooting from the hip, it could be several things as pointed out. One thing not...

several useful points ... I've been reading up in BG delete, may do that until I can find a good used BG. Couple questions though (1) The descriptions I have found seem less complete regarding removing the fore-aft driveshaft . Do I need t drop the exhaust to do that? (2) Does anything need to be c...

You should be able to align the spring with the rubber insulator that sits inside the aluminum top-hat the same as it was aligned with the old shock/same configuration as when you removed it from the car. Just look closely at the rubber; it’ll be obvious where it rested against the top-had and also ...

I’d also say to not get too excited about a T5/HPT V70. The LPT’s are more than adequate & you can edge out a T5 performance wise with a simple $400ish dollar ECU tune. For example, depending on the tune you go with, a LPT is easily capable and still very safe/reliable at 15ish psi (stock ~7psi). An...

On a lark, have you removed the ECM/TCM and cleaned the contacts? Obviously you don’t physically touch any of the pins/petals, cleaning is done with a spray. I recently overcame a several-month mogul by cleaning the contacts & lubing with sprayable dielectric grease.

Technically, you can unplug the seat modules with the battery still hooked up. You just must first wait until all signs of life have shut down - key out, all lights & bells off, usually takes no more than 5-10 minutes. I tested this just 2 days ago to see. Yes, you will pop an SRS DIM message if you...

Yes it is. A BG from an Aisin trans won’t mate up, as far as I know (but don’t hesitate to correct me if you discover I’m wrong). If you or your spouse has access to Facebook/marketplace maybe start poking around & inquire with people parting out cars in the area. Scrap yard is always an option but ...

I’m unaware of any paper service manuals for P2’s, unless printed PDF counts. Most use ViDA 2014D and a DiCE unit to interface with the vehicle. Rick is one of the ViDA gurus here and there is an entire section dedicated to ViDA related concerns HERE . It’s not a very user friendly system, but it ca...

You really won’t know for certain until you get the bevel gear on the bench. Hopefully you can get away with just a new collar sleeve. Worst case the input splines on the BG are toast or the ring/pinion gears/bearings are shot and you’ll need to supply a donor BG plus a new collar sleeve. Do you hav...

I dunno Bart, $200 is a pretty small drop in the bucket to purchase a car outright. Heck, a second-hand set of wheels with tires alone will run around $200 bucks.

‘‘Tis nobler to ask for forgiveness than permission....”




Please don’t let it go to scrap.

I agree with Abscate - there aren’t really any other obvious 2-conductor receptacles in that vicinity. Has to be PTC connector. Look at the hard plastic pipe that you took off of the turbo inlet (The one that goes from the MAF to the turbo). There should be 2 hose barbs of different sizes right on t...

I was gonna say the same thing. His & hers, black Betty & black Barry? I’d be keeping it if I was you & I got it all squared away.

Yes, you are absolutely correct. Reading back through this thread I can now see that I missed your harping on this point. Such an easy thing to overlook but it is the at pinnacle of a heap of parts that can act up if it itself isn’t able to read the various communications correctly! This entire time...

I have a roller coaster/mogul field of a steep gravel driveway. Perhaps ECM jolted loose by bouncing up and down the driveway? Regardless, it is going to my local indie. I need the car, and fiscal year end demands at work will preclude me from getting to it. Evan, if you need an ECM removal tool th...

Bart, please please please scoop up this car. 'Twould be foolish not to. If it's too much headache for you to tackle I can come out and help you deal with it and/or bring it back to MN with me. I have a small amount of time left before I return to work (that could change any day now, though). It is ...

In neutral, try spinning both front wheels in the same direction at the same time & take note of what your driveshaft does.

That’s great news for your bevel gear & collar sleeve. Did you observe both rear tires? One could have been spinning far faster than the other seeing as there is a differential between the two. My best guess remains that there is definitely an issue in the AOC/DEM/pump vicinity, now confirmed by the...

Exactly, especially useful on the crank timing pulley which has a domed/sloped inner face.

I haven’t had one break, but I’ve always anticipated that particular one breaking every time I’ve put force to it. The only times I’ve had the coolant & oil pipes off the turbos have been when I’ve also had the bevel gear off. I’m sure there’s a work-around. Maybe SuperHerman, Abscate or VTL will ch...

The spring bolt is one of the 3 that retains the turbo heat shield. The galvanized pipe is a hard coolant line that attaches to the turbo & reservoir.

Wire wheel the little rust spot, tape off area, spray w/metallic silver rattle can. cylinder head 2.5T.PNG cylinder head 2.5T 2.PNG cylinder head 2.5T 3.PNG cylinder head 2.5T 4.PNG cylinder head 2.5T 5.PNG cylinder head 2.5T 6.PNG cylinder head 2.5T 7.PNG cylinder head 2.5T 8.PNG cylinder head 2.5T...

I will try to remember to post ViDA instructions today/tomorrow sometime. If you plan to remove your VVT’s for cam seal replacement I can loan you my cam locking tool. I assume you lined up your timing marks prior to removing the belt.

For some specific things I really prefer this style 2-jaw puller. I have removable conical ends for the screw.

I have a roller coaster/mogul field of a steep gravel driveway. Perhaps ECM jolted loose by bouncing up and down the driveway? Regardless, it is going to my local indie. I need the car, and fiscal year end demands at work will preclude me from getting to it. Evan, if you need an ECM removal tool th...

Respectfully, I would resist the temptation & wait for a 2003-2007 with slightly less miles. The price isn’t bad. Those are the nice comfy front “sport” seats, which are very desirable, only bested by the R seats. But black interior is going to be very hot as far south as you are. Edit: not a bad li...

I’d try to install fresh spark plugs every 30-40k, this really seems to help reduce the tendency for ignition coils to go pop. If you did timing belt et.al around 100k I’d plan to do the next one around 170k-180k & also do a water pump & new coolant then as well. Since you’re 2004 you’ll probably be...

When I’ve done seat swaps I’ve gotten in the habit of disconnecting the battery in the back of the car. With key on, turn radio and AC fan off. Turn ignition off and wait at least 5 min before you disconnect battery. Disconnect negative first. When reconnecting, place key in position II before you r...

Rear FOG light button, not defog.

I’d get the entire car off the ground. If your bevel gear is good and collar sleeve/BG input splines are intact the driveshaft should not rotate freely. If you can rotate the driveshaft your front tires should also be spinning.

Mine have been oily as well. Just clean the exterior up with brake parts cleaner before you put the sprocket on etc. I wouldn’t worry about it unless it was obviously banged up.

Edit: that’s assuming you purchased new VVT hub(s).

It’s extremely unlikely that all 3 would fail simultaneously. My bet is on your DEM pump. The easiest way to verify if your bevel gear/collar sleeve is intact is to get the car in the air (safely), roll underneath it and grab the driveshaft. You should not be able to rotate it freely as it will be t...

A new DEM pump will run the better part of $300, part only. You’ll also be wise to replace the filter and the special Volvo AOC oil that goes in the case as well. Pulling the fuse is obviously not a fix, nor is it what you would do if you live in an area where inclement weather is imminent. But it c...

One thing I forgot to mention, FCP now sells the “inner” VVT O-rings. I have not personally tried them so I cannot attest to their fitment, but I would definitely be replacing mine at 120k as long as you have it apart. I tried some off eBay and all the ones I received were of inappropriate fitment s...

Dual VVT engines do not have the large plastic plug on the rear of the cams. They do have seals, however. I have a thread with the part numbers and comparison notes of seals available. Remove the cam sensor (black plastic housings), then remove 10mm bolt which secures hall effect sensor pickup. You ...

Impact on & off is the way to go. I’ve reused the crank nut on my 288k XC70 many times. I marked it long ago with a white paint marker & also the face of the serp pulley so I know how far to impact it back on. I’ve never used a crank counterhold & have had a dozen or more P2 timings to show for it.

The problem is you really don’t know for certain unless you pull that timing gear off the nose of the crank. I guess I don’t see an issue with a 10 minute crank timing gear/pulley removal. Once the serp pulley is off it just takes a puller & the timing gear is off as well. Then you can verify that t...

It’s amazing how quickly things can spread from one Volvo to another. I try to keep mine parked at least 10’ apart!

The original one will be metal & stained brown from oil exposure. The updated one is plastic & black in color.

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=90563&hilit=pickup+tube

I had a question about that little bugger also. Jimmy57 answered it in a thread I had a year or so ago. Let me dig it up. See below. Take a good look at your oil pickup tube and it’s screen while you’re in there. There is an updated version which has a bellmouth shape to it which allows particulates...

Plain old single electrode/copper Volvo/Bosch plugs are time tested & proven, especially on turbo models. That being said, it’s most likely that your coils are the problem vs your 4-electrode plugs. Get know good coils in there and then proceed along to trouble shooting.

June wrote: ↑Wed Jun 03, 2020 10:31 am

Someone might have some way of modifying Volvo's design to better suit you ...

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 2168270396

Faust, if your radiator separated/cracked where the plastic end tanks meet the aluminum radiator body, did you take a close look at the intercooler & condenser also?

They are blank no name coils. I will try and swap them around. And plugs I used bosch platinum. The ones with 4 prongs around the tips... With as many misfire codes as you’re getting I wouldn’t be surprised if you don’t have ANY known good coils to swap around. But before dumping a bunch of money o...

I heard an ominous sound on our V70 AWD a couple months ago when mindlessly parking. I was pulling into a spot with a curb & the front of the car actually made contact. I hadn’t experienced that before, & am darn sure to never do it again. It scraped the underside of the front of the subframe, in my...

If, after moving known good coils around, you still have misfiring cylinders I would double check your injectors, and then compression. HF has a very inexpensive compression tester. Accuracy isn’t critical, you just want to see somewhat uniform numbers at this point. Cold you should see somewhere ar...

Just one small note, the newer P2’s didn’t technically have an ETM, rather a ETA or electronic throttle assembly. Much less prone to failures than early P2’s. Anyhow, some oil in the lower Intercooler pipe is normal. You’ll find it in all the pipes to be honest. Don’t take it the wrong way, but you ...

I have a couple questions for you. I can’t tell on the coils; I tried zooming in on the high resolution images but I can’t quite make out if there is any writing on the tops of the coils. If they are no-name-brand/Chinese cheap coils, they will be blank & I would not be surprised if one or more of t...

You can do it in ViDA, but what’s always worked for me is KP1 (key position 1) Press & hold odometer reset button While still holding odo button, turn to KP2 Continue holding reset button until yellow triangle (!) flashes Release reset button I can’t recall ever having an audible alert signifying it...

What are you using to pull codes?
I assume it is running very poorly, or barely at all?
You’ve ensured that all the wires that go to the coils aren’t pinched or severed somewhere?
I suspect there are other codes that you may not be able to see, if using a basic reader.

Have a peek behind the timing cover. What you’ll likely find is a front cam seal that’s been pushed out of its confines. If yours is a single VVT (exhaust), you might see something like this. Looking through the holes in the cam sprocket, you’ll see that the (front, intake cam) seal is pushed out of...

- So, just fly up and drive back? - https://www.autotrader.ca/a/volvo/v70/toronto/ontario/5_48372297_20110601135441375 - V70.png - Very good, & nicely optioned. Those front seats are hard to come by. If it was AWD I’d already own it, or be attempting to do so. Interesting wheels, need to take me a ...

https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/ ... 10285.html

Wow.

I have replaced CBV’s before, not on this old turd though. If it were a torn CBV diaphragm I’d expect to hear at least some fluttering under boost & letting off accel pedal. The nature of it seems to be an electronic, sensor type limitation. If all else fails, I’ll have the tune reloaded. I haven’t ...

NICE! Some pics when you get them installed. . 2E506709-0254-4470-B019-1B5EA7DED0C6.jpeg F979432D-5CA0-474D-A05C-AA0A1AA5F6A1.jpeg A4A6DE23-4E93-46F8-8350-3F44B6945528.jpeg I really hate posting whole car pics, but 18” _______ (I forgot the name, maybe Abscate knows) give an appropriate appearance ...

It has a visible play, t-belt slipped to outer edge, vibration sound was located and confirmed with stethoscope, and I still remember these symptoms on a 12 y.o. V70 that had a bad VVT hub. Same vibration sound, I even found my old video to confirm that. In XC70 I had all the sensors replaced recen...

Also I just got a 5% off FCP code in an email if you want.

I’ve been tempted by the alluring body styles of the newer Volvo’s but I guess I’m just into stuff that lasts. Sorry to hear about that VTL, and good to know! Do yours exhibit much for axial play? Mine didn’t have much, but enough so that that inner o-ring was leaking where it is supposed to seal ar...

And that was a big deterrent for me too - the cost of the new hubs. I guess at almost 300k miles the cost has spread itself out alright. I plan to keep this car in service for many more years, so I just had to cough it up. Its fuel mileage is wonderful, even with a stage 1 tune file in the ECM and i...

I recently did what it sounds like you’re about to embark on - cam & crank seals. I got everything disassembled & it was very evident that neither intake nor exhaust front cam seal were leaking and this was at around 283,000 miles. What I found the most significant source of the leak to be was the V...

Coolant flows through that pipe & they used a banjo on that end because of the close quarters. You don’t want to forget copper crush washers for either banjo. If you forget the coolant banjo crush washers you’ll have a coolant leak. If you forget the crush washers on the intake manifold bolt you’ll ...

Yep, 2 bolts come out, nuts are part of the weldment so no need to counterhold them, then the trailing arm comes off. As VTL pointed out, you’ll need to use your jack under the knuckle/control arm to adjust height to line your holes back up.

Those thin black stay arms aren’t very strong. They don’t cost much, but personally, I wouldn’t put a scissor jack there. I think VTL may be talking about the trailing arm. That’s good to know, if so. The instructions in ViDA show to use a large ratchet strap or come-ahh-long to pull both arms towar...

I have a set of crowsfoot’s like these. I’m not sure mine are Sunnex, but can’t recall at the moment. Anyhow, not any skipped sizes in my set, nor the HD set. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sunex-3-8-in-Drive-Metric-Crowfoot-Flare-Nut-Wrench-Set-10-Piece-9710M/303220072 Edit, apologies for ignorance to...

Yep, it is a little puckering the first time you go to get the lower shock mount back into position. With a come-ahh-long scissoring the 2 control arms down, I typically get the hole in the shock lined up with the peg on the control arm, then you sorta have to manhandle it & even beat it onto the pe...

Glad you’re making headway Neil!

I ran into this issue recently also, it can really take the wind out of your sails! The car I was simply replacing brake fluid on had the VR/SR Brembo calipers too, which have 2 bleeders per caliper. The fun part is the caliper itself is some sort of cast aluminum. On both rear calipers, 1 of the 2 ...

It should have it. You need to remove the “front” lift-up panel/third row seat back, then remove carpeting/noise damping insulation underneath. Then you should see some (2) gray circular foam pieces on the L & R. Pull those off and underneath you should be able to catch a glimpse of the half-moon wa...

For the connectors on the black box, they should be the kind where you can either push down with your fingernail/flat screwdriver on the yellow box . Or use a pick to lift up under the plastic tang in the red box . Then wiggle the connector out. 914E7BD7-5CEC-431B-9432-C85FFD123F98.jpeg On the other...

No, removing the flange must be done first, but you can change the filter without pulling the pump.

Member Yagger does this sort of work very regularly & his rates are very affordable. He doesn’t post much, so maybe send him a PM.

Excellent advice. Don’t fool around with something so important. It is very tempting & I am guilty of succumbing to this sort of temptation!

Exhaust isn’t mandatory to remove, but you must free at least the rear CV joint on the driveshaft from the oscillation damper on the AOC/Haldex input. After that, must remove oscillation damper itself. Some cars had a shallower oscillation dampers & it was possible to remove just the rear CVJ. Other...

Ok. Check your boost hoses too - one right off the top of the turbo & one that feeds from the charged air pipe to the intercooler inlet. If they look sweaty, bubbly, bulged etc replace them. Rein makes good inexpensive replacements. Edit: where did you put your boost gauge? I meant to suggest this e...

Nope, other than the frustration of driving your grandmas Buick.

What did Rob say the tune was supposed to target for boost?
Or did you ask?

Don’t do the aftermarket HD TCV. Plenty of documentation on premature failures & erratic boost & boost spikes which can badly damage your engine. Stock Pierburg is proven & long lasting.

Which version of tune did you do with Hilton? That seems very low. Did you replace the TCV? To me it sounds like you are only building as much boost as your wastewater (I actually typed wastegate) is set to, which would possibly mean your TCV isn’t working properly. Try unplugging it and if no chang...

I have come across some good info using translator. Most of it seems to come from Russia/Ukraine/Czech Republic.

I have a bunch of Haldex/AOC threads saved somewhere but here’s the one I was referring to earlier.

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=93479

They do come apart, I have not tried (yet) but I do have 2 old pumps I need to (attempt to) rebuild. A member in the XC90 forum did a write up on the AOC pump tear down a little while ago. I’ll try to find it.

I actually was out of town butchering hogs when I initially posted that. I emailed the seller right away after they posted them. Worked out ok I guess. 1st two buyers didn’t show, & I was next in line. I posted it hoping someone around here would get them. Someone around here got them :lol: NICE! S...

So you did picked them up? The ad still says "RIMS VOLVO XC90 pick up pending - $200 (St. Louis Park)"? . I actually was out of town butchering hogs when I initially posted that. I emailed the seller right away after they posted them. Worked out ok I guess. 1st two buyers didn’t show, & I was next ...

One of my XC’s is doing this as well. So far, I’ve determined that one of the stay arms (9200217) is bent slightly, and also the trailing arm bushings are terribly worn (31277893). I did a little instructional on replacing trailing arm bushings a little while ago. There’s oodles of bushings in the r...

Great buy at $160 Pete and it would be in my garage now. This one is gonna take awhile. Was $600 when it started. https://raleigh.craigslist.org/wto/d/wake-forest-4-wheels-volvo-xc90-v8/7118926884.html . Oophta, that’s too dang much. I wouldn’t pay over $160. I noticed they are made by Borbet when ...

https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/ ... 37186.html

Seller says they will let the set go for $160. Good deal.

My old pickup trucks all have one that look like that - for noise interference on the radio due to ignition RF bleed through. No idea if that’s what it does on a Volvo though

With the HD TCV’s, I would caution people. The aftermarket non-pierburg HD TCV’s have many reports of failures at early ages. Especially when exposed to colder temps. Also reports of boost spikes etc which in some cases have been purported to be fatal (to the engine). The general consensus amongst p...

Until you have your passages cleared out I’d just leave the drain plug out. You can even pour cheap clean oil through that lower passage if you want. When I say “flush” with clean oil I’m saying to use clean oil dumped into the crankcase to “float” out any junk laying on the bottom that has come out...

You should always get ~6 quarts between the pan and filter when you drain the oil. If there are leaks or you’re burning some, obviously that’ll be slightly less. I think you’re talking about the small coolant pipe/nipple that allows oil buildup to drain out of the intake manifold. Below is the XC90 ...

To add to the excellent words that have already been shared with you, I would also include that it is absolutely possible to have a complete occlusion of the (lower) port in the block as well as a plugged up oil trap/black box and not have a head gasket issue. I bought a low mileage 04 V70 AWD 2.5T ...

For struts you can do just left or right side at one time. I figure, if you’re doing both sides anyhow, might as well get the entire front end off the ground. There’s a stamped mark on the underside of the subframe, almost in the center of it. It looks like this —> lOl Get an old 2x4 maybe 3’ long, ...

Actually, the CBV ( C ompressor B ypass V alve) lives on the turbo. The TCV is your T urbo C ontrol V alve, aka, BCS or B oost C ontrol S olenoid. Without it, you will only make as much boost psi as your wastegate is set to. It normally is clipped to the side of the airbox, underneath the pipe runni...

I’d say she’s done for. Not even worth keeping that pipe for a backup

Yep, that’s the TCV alright.

Snabb makes an inexpensive replacement for that turbo inlet pipe. I think they are around $140-150. Stock is probably a little less than that.

Double check fitment, but yours should be Pierburg 30670448.

It’s clipped to the airbox, underneath the tube that runs from the airbox to the turbo. It has 3 vac lines going to it & an electrical connector with 2 wires.

Whatever is in the cup is gonna come out anyhow. I’d chalk that ~.5 qt up to waste, or pour it through an old clean rag to catch any sediment & then pour that clean oil back in. Either way it won’t be much. Oil is cheap. If the cup isn’t leaking badly I’d just wait 3-4K miles & change it then when y...

To get you started, don’t obligate yourself to do the job twice. Have new vac hose ready to install. Get THIS stuff ahead of time. Most vac hose available is ~2mm wall thickness. The above is 4mm ID & 3mm wall thickness. Obviously inspect the lines best you can, but replace them all while you’re the...

What kind of voltages do you get under load (ie: driving w/boost) w/ViDA/DiCE hooked up?
Upstream is definitely reporting high values.

2014D it’s called. Most of the DiCE units come with the free ViDA software. DiCE is the little box that acts as the interface between your laptop & OBD2 port on car.

Out of curiosity, do the other functions still work? I had a power drivers seat that was finicky & would only operate for the first minute or two after putting the car in gear. If you opened the drivers door (while driving) it would resume operation, but as before, only for a minute or so & then dea...

Yesterday and today I started on the PCV ... The banjo bolt ... One thing I recently discovered in trying to get the banjo threaded back into the intake plenum is the following: 1) start by laying down a couple of those multicolor interlocking pads (the ones that you could picture being in a daycar...

You’ll know if it loosens, which in all probability is very unlikely. You’ll be fine. Next time hit it with the impact if you have one.

I don’t bother with torque on them. Impact the nut on, or you can use an offset box wrench & a torx bit through the offset wrench to counterhold the shaft.

https://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-m ... -set-.html

....where the rivets that have to be removed are? .... Neil. Hey Niel, I had form 36 pulled up last night out of curiosity. I think there are only 2 rivets that need to be drilled out. They appear to be on the underside of the rear valence, just rear of the rear tires/fender arch's. If you have the...

7A0CF3BE-846A-427A-A26C-799143B7312C.jpeg 318693AA-889A-47BB-8427-255B1BBB531B.jpeg 9BE250FF-8DA2-449B-9F5E-0B28D0FFBAF2.jpeg I’m really not a toy guy, but I just love these. My wife surprised me with 4 of the white/blue cars right around the time Matthew posted this thread. Then, today, my wife su...

I haven't done a rear on an XC, but it sounds not too bad according to THIS.

I know there are some rivets in the fender arch/mud-flap vicinity that may need to be drilled. I need to take the rear bumper skin off one of our non-XC's soon so I'll be re-reading the link above.
Subscribed.

It was the one you shared a couple weeks ago. I’ll see if I can find it.

Edit, HERE it is.

I put the Lesjoförs HD springs in the rear of 2 of our XC70’s. Very noticeable difference. Rear rides about 1 finger width taller (if you put your fist between the tire & fender arch). Definitely a handling improvement. Slightly stiffer but honestly the saggy & plush stock rears are disappointing in...

As far as I know, and this is true on my 04-06’s, the front and rear CVJ is the same part. Check with coloradodriveshaft.com & they can verify if your earlier XC is the same. I can say their CVJ’s & boots are every bit as good as the ghastly expensive Volvo CVJ’s. They use CVJ’s which are made in Tu...

If either CVJ has gone sour you’ll feel a vibration at speed, but ONLY under load. My guess is, if the boot tear is nearest the shaft (where it appears to be in the image), you will not lose enough grease to sacrifice the inner CVJ. Obviously, you will eventually get sick of the grease spatters bein...

I’ve reused those nuts & bolts a few times. I wouldn’t lose sleep over it. I also take the high road for tee-nut & ball joint removal/install. And I have the proper tools for both! Just faster to do it the common sense way. Good job to you! On the bottom photo, was the inner CV joint pulled out too ...

I had a 2001 XC70 with same issues, not as bad, and I converted the MM throttle body to contactless SACR unit and never had issues afterwards. All told it was under $150 and some work. Interesting Superherman, would you care to share where you acquired the highlighted throttle body? That’s a darn g...

If you take a wire wheel to the outer perimeter you can usually find the MINTH number stamped into the face. I used to keep 2 sets of front rotors for the cars. When one began to warp I’d pull them off, and replace with the freshly turned pair. Take the warped set & turn them for my backups. Turning...

One thing I’ve learned (the hard way) to do with a newly acquired P2 Volvo is to do your first few oil changes at short intervals. Another thing you’ve likely already come across is to get some fresh ATF in the transmission. Lots of discussion on which ATF to use on the Aisin transmissions. 01-02’s ...

Oil leaks are part of Volvo’s long term rust prevention plan. As I’m sure you’ve noticed you don’t see many rusty Volvo’s! :lol: PCV is a good thing to investigate. There’s an incredible wealth of knowledge here and oodles of very knowledgeable members who so willingly help those in need. Looks to b...

Just an update on this for informational purposes - I replaced the banjo bolt under the intake manifold with the udated one that has a check valve and it did lower the crankcase pressure. I was getting readings of -.05 Kpa at idle and up to 1.9 Kpa when under boost driving with the old banjo bolt. ...

Fan shroud comes out the top, then the rest comes out the bottom. Yes, you are correct that the condenser is part of the shammich - it would be the bread. But you want to separate the other two from it, then drop the rad & IC out. It talks about disconnecting the condenser from the other two in that...

Hi, The easiest way is to take it and the intercooler out through the bottom. If your jack stands are tall enough, this is the way to go. Remove it and the intercooler as a “pack”. Below is a link to instructions for installing a larger intercooler/radiator, but the process is the same for stock siz...

I liked Greg850R’s approach. Scroll a little ways down on this page of his thread. I’ve seen a video of a guy using a special puller. I personally don’t see a point to gluing the collar sleeve into the trans. Once the bevel gear is on it can’t go anywhere. https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/vi...

It’s a little hard to tell from the picture, but it almost looks like it cracked off.
Can you put up a slightly clearer image?

Is that a groove in the belt? As in, can you catch your fingernail in it? Or is it just a different color? It’s hard to tell from the photo.

If it’s a groove I’d definitely get a replacement from FCP. They’ll take care of you I’m sure.

Don't even bother with part numbers & studs - plain old bolts, nuts, and lock washers will do fine (you'll likely need a new 2-hole gasket though, you can make or buy one). I say plain because even fancy stuff will likely need to be cut off the next time anyhow. Everything will most likely be rusted...

Yes, VTL, the interior is in pretty bad shape. The seats are a mixture of cloth and leather. The cloth is in very bad shape. I do not think that it would come clean. The exterior leaves a lot to be desired. I will look through my photos, but I’m pretty sure the AOC was very wet. The original seller ...

I do not know, but yes it is the same one. I took many photos and videos of it running the day that I went to inspect it. Also it had 164k (& some change) miles when I looked at it. The town it’s listed in is approx 160 miles from the town it was sold in, so if it was driven that far with the rod kn...

Well look what popped up again.


https://lacrosse.craigslist.org/cto/d/m ... 10460.html

The curse words need to be uttered in the correct dialect of Swedish, as per ViDA.

Also, keep an eye on your coolant level.

Don’t be surprised to find oil/residue/debris inside either #5 or #6.

That’s an easy to misread image; it is showing both “R” and 2.5T fitments. The “R” has a split or 2-piece intercooler setup. Unless somebody has fitted one on your car prior to you’re acquisition, you do not have parts 15, 16, & 3a. Also you will have charged air pipe #1 vs 1a. Hose #5 is what I tho...

I never got an answer to "why?", but in my many talks with IPD/Ken Pruett they don't do the softloader program anymore. They do the wireless tunes/Gluon module nowadays. I don't know if they ship to OZ, but worth asking. I've done 3 of their wireless tunes with great success. I've not tried any of t...

The front CVJ should bust loose pretty easily. Even a 2’ pry bar should do. Just make sure that you don’t mess up the output flange seal on the bevel gear. The rear CVJ might come easy, it might not. The really stubborn ones have to be cut, as in oscillation flange. Hopefully yours isn’t that bad. I...

The yeahbutts came out of the woods....‘‘tis but a 1L bottle @$12

I saw IPD has Aisin 3309 for $6.26/qt, FCP at $6.99/qt for the same.

Edit, ya beat me Ben!

Maybe I missed it, but I never saw mention of the trans. M66? Which state are you in?
Edit, also, have you got any other images of the car?

Hello! You are right hand drive, yes? I’d say that first leak is most likely the rubber hose that feeds pressurized air from the “charged air pipe” to the intercooler. Pretty common. Could be cracked or not seated correctly, or has a loose hose clamp. No bumper removal necessary. Just remove the cha...

Nice job on all the work up to this point! Those are my favorite 16” wheels on an XC70. Like Superherman & Abscate said, oil in the pipes is to be expected. That rubber intercooler pipe is toast. They get saturated from heat & oil. By 250k yours probably looks like it’s begun to “boil”. The Rein rep...

Silly Swedes.

How’d your fogs turn out looking?
Did you wire them up separately with a relay?

Ok, I’ve heard of the hanger bearings going bad, but it’s extremely infrequent. The driveshaft & hanger bearing (and both CVJ’s) on my 285k XC70 are original. They have all been greased a few times though.

What I am understanding is I don't need to remove the exhaust, just work around it. So: 1. Lift the car off the ground 2. Remove the center hanger first, then the front CV, then the rear and wiggle things out. Pretty much. You’ll need some good tall jack stands unless you can get the car on a lift....

If you end up deciding to service your driveshaft, forget about the exhaust bolts. You don’t need to lower the exhaust to remove the driveshaft. You will need plenty of extensions, of the wobble type, though. If you decide to lower the exhaust be prepared to do some cutting. The studs & nuts pretty ...

That’s a bummer. I hope your JB holds up for a long time. If not, your tool will have become half as expensive to own

The lower one is cheap, like $26-28.

Is the vibration felt under load? Coasting? Both?

When you switch over, you may want to do a full “Gibbons” type flush. Just look up Gibbons Volvo ATF flush & you should see his video & plenty of fora commentary. Some say it’s a waste, I just like the idea of starting with a system that is pretty much filled with new fluid. Between the ATF cooler, ...

Does it coincide with small surface imperfections in the road? I’ve been thinking about this for a while now. I’m wondering if your original sway bar bushings are worn to the point that you’re hearing the bar making percussion noise? The front sway bar is right there in that vicinity & is an a annoy...

That’s a tough call. I guess one way to look at it is you know which cylinder is going to produce a knock first. Once a knock is audible & detected by the knock sensor it’s only a matter of time, and probably not a whole lot of it. If it was mine & I had just spent all the time & money you have to g...

A lot of people have used Valvoline MaxLife in the red gallon jug from Wal-mart with great success. A lot of people use Toyota T-IV (T-4). And a lot of people use other ATF that “meets the requirements”. Toyota T-IV is typically around $6/qt at a Toyota dealership. MaxLife is around $17-19/gallon. I...

I just did this 2 weekends ago on my 05 V70R. Undo the one bolt with the banana shape washer and take the whole unit out from the bottom. I followed the Robert DIY video and used the ratchet strap on it. Thank God you don't have the Monroe electronic suspension shocks. Getting at the passenger side...

I haven’t tried the doors, but I believe they are just adhesive. The fronts just pop off. Sides first, then middle (If yours has a middle). Use a non-marring pry tool. Rears on a sedan I’m not sure on.

The faded black plastic does get tiresome to look at. A cheaper way is to restore it. Does yours have the "stretch marks" or "zebra stripes"? Sometimes if its gotten to that point getting those out doesn't always work. But if they are faint you can have good results. Here is what I've used on a few ...

Your 01 may be different, but taking that bracket down to inspect won't hurt a thing. There are a few (3, I think) plastic retainers that secure rigid brake/PS lines and one that retains the wire for your rear O2 sensor. Just squeeze those with a needle-nose to allow the metal plate to drop down. Re...

I’ve seen the bumper mount lighting kit before but have no experience with it. Here is the cost to add fogs to a 01-04 V70 (2005 may differ?) using a factory LSM. 8698123 kit for fogs 203.10 8622840 harness 47.61 9438287 software 35.21 Does not include labor. Labor is ~.5 hr to install software only...

Wise guy

Yep, that’s the one. I watched a Volvo FF video start to finish about a tech doing a re-engine on a T6 S80. They dropped the engine/trans out through the bottom of the car. I don’t know S80’s but I think there’s enough similar that you’d probably have to do the same with a V8. https://youtu.be/mFZ6f...