I dont have the fuel pressure regulator, my S70 has the pulse damper which I'm kind of unfamiliar with. I was wondering if it was faulty it would give me the same symptoms as a fuel pressure regulator.

If I'm not mistaken I think you do have a fuel pressure regulator in addition to the pulse ...

That torn hose could easily be the main cause of your bad idle and hesitation...

You will need to pull the VR and look at it, see this thread: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=61610

Thanks, useful pics there (pretty sure mine is the one on the left though I'll double check.) I'm hoping to have a correct spare part ready to fit - looks like ...

Thanks for confirming that about the P1 cars - I know my own battery voltage is pretty low and at 160K miles the alternator is bound to be tired (no other problems showing so far but it's only a matter of time.) Any more details on your specific alternator and the part you used?

It's actually possible to replace the ECT sensor without disturbing the thermostat housing at all (it would have been even easier had I done it whilst I had the radiator out and not just after I'd fitted it all back up - doh!)

No harm in doing it the longer way round though, you certainly get a ...

I'd second Lee's answer about heating the hoses - I had one I just could not get off at all and yet after a longish drive it came off without the slightest problem!

I've used both genuine Volvo and decent non-Volvo glycol based coolants with no issues.

Obviously check the air hoses are all in one piece and firmly attached, but one very easy thing to try is disconnecting the plug from the MAF - if it's faulty it doesn't necessarily throw a fault code and the car should run OK-ish without it connected.

It has been a year since I put the new cable on, but I believe it is aftermarket junk. I wondered if I could cut some of the large outer sheathing off so the attachment to the sill plate will give me more room by the rear tire.

I thought the same thing, but worried about damaging the sheathing ...

This was discussed on another forum recently and a few people (including me) have found something similar. I think the consensus was that the overall length of the cable is probably correct, but the larger diameter outer protective sleeving covering certain parts of the cable outer is possibly in ...

It may not be in limp mode but the ECU will reduce or restrain boost levels based on various sensor readings - if the gearbox says it's in 1st, reverse or winter mode, if the brake switch reports closed, or if knock/preignition is detected by the knock sensors and the air/fuel mixture enriched . Oh ...