Well we picked up a large restoration job out of town and I have been putting about 400 miles a day on the volvo for the last week. Last night while out there and running an errand the car went totally gutless - running fine, but absolutely no boost, the smell of oil, and a nice racket of something ...

and i just bought and cut up a white garden hose....next time please clarify sooner

okay, 100% off topic....that car looks great.
what wheels and size are those, and are the rear mud flaps a volvo factory item?

As much as I am not a red car person, I am just totally digging the look.

another sure fire way to confirm whether you are looking a leak or a bad component (because you can have one without the other), go rent/borrow a radiator pressure tester. wait until the system is completely cold and run up the pressure to with 1~2psi of the cap spec and let it sit for 20-30 mins......

my 98 t5 owners manual also recommends synthetic at 5k intervals. As Robert said 8k is probably safe, the only reason I go 3 is because I have cheap access to the oil and I tend to drive like a moron (some people are crack addicts; I am a boost addict - the personality switch of the car that happens...

sensor can cause this and I have seen it a few times....are you sure you got the ltft's cleared and the computer was totally reset before you tried the relearn?

The valve body's clogging can sometimes be solved with a good flush, but again, if you are thinking about taking it to a shop make sure that you trust them and they know what going on - a bad flush can cause early death. Just to clarify, when I said additives I did not mean off the shelf autozone cr...

In theory after a hard run you want to give it a second to cool down - synthetic oil minimizes this, but its commonly referred to as "cokeing". When you shut down the motor the oil stops flowing and whats trapped in the still hot turbo essentially bakes and burns in. Again, synthetic is a ...

as to the "alt air" - secondary air injection system

Yeah, I was not reffering to the window switch, the module that preforms the "auto" function senses the current draw of the motor to determine if the window has reached full travel, lube the rails and the motor will run more effeciently