Agree you have a wiring issue - a short doubtful as the wires would melt - but a break more likely or corroded wiring.

Wiggle the harness, compress the wires with your fingers and see if you get any light.

You may need to splice further back on the wiring - look for a point you see good wire ...

Most likely your oil pan o-rings need to be replaced. They go bad with age and leak. Not a horrible job - drop the pan, clean things up and replace the o-rings. Plenty of write ups on the process.

I have not pulled up your prior threads so I don't know the mileage/kilometers on your car or how long you have owned it - that said it is unlikely block cracks will manifest themselves on a higher mileage engine without a very serious overheat. Usually a poor casting is the cause of an early block ...

Check relays and Shunts as well.

This gets tricky. If one changes just the compressor the practice is to pour out the oil in the compressor and measure it. Then do the same with the new compressor. Replace so the amount that came from the old compressor is the target amount. The problem is there is oil else where in the system, but ...

The blower motor can be removed, cleaned and regreased if it is still working. If you do it early enough the motor will survive a very long time. If you wait, it will start burning itself and associated parts up. Once it seizes the unit is pretty much dead as the windings burn up. A very determined ...

This should help some. I did a quick read and it has great information

https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/1 ... nformation

Would checking the line pressure provide any insight on whether the valve body is leaking pressure and/or a seal on one of transmission internals?.

I am not as versed as some of above forum members that posted here, hopefully one will respond.

I see three situations 1) There is a problem with the ...

There are two schools of thought. 1) Replace it all and do it once or 2) Change only what is needed.

To consider - how many times do you have to take the same part off to replace the part one back? Usually this translates to it is only 5 minutes more of work and the cost of the part. Another thing ...

I have used it several times. Once a full can and then a valve body service. Then on two other occasions I used 1/2 can after a drain and fill. These two cars had no issues afterwards.

There are reports on the forum of individuals using it and afterwards freeing up sticking solenoids.

My opinion ...