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Heater Problem???

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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Paul

Heater Problem???

Post by Paul »

I just purchased a '94 850. The heater just blows luke warm air. Also, the temp gauge was showing very low temp readings (right above the bottom mark) even after driving for long periods, until today, it went up to just over the midway mark after driving for about 30 minutes. Any clues?? Thanks!

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matthew1
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Post by matthew1 »

Your thermostat is bad. Common. It's about US$20 for the part, and if you do it yourself, a 4 on a scale of 1-10 in difficulty.

The tstat regulates the cooling of the engine. When the temperature trips the tstat, it opens and lets coolant into the cooling tubes (is that the right word? anyone?) to circulate and therefore cool the engine.

When it fails, it fails open, usually, for safety of the engine. Therefore, you're running cool all the time. 8)

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Tsquared
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Joined: 17 August 2003
Year and Model: 11 C30
Location: Atlanta GA
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Post by Tsquared »

I have had the "problem" of the heater not working for the past month (I have been working out of town and haven't had time to mess with it). My thermostat has been opening prematurly and not allowing the engine to fully warm up.

I picked up a new (90 degree C) thermostat from the local dealer. Part # 271664 for $24.95 and it came with the rubber gasket. I also picked up a galon of Prestone anti-freeze to replace the old fluid.

After draining the radiator (plastic fiber valve just below the lower radiator hose pointing down) and flushing with water, I proceded to replace the Thermostat.

It is strait forward. The only tools needed was a T-40 Torx to remove the two housing screws that hold the thermostat in (besides the wrench needed to drain the radiator). The rear screw was a little tight because of the fuel rail housing but it came out with out any problems. With both screws out and all of the hoses still connected I was able to work it out of the recessed area so that I could remove the thermostat.

After I placed the rubber gasket arround the new thermostat I dropped it into place and worked the housing back into place. I dropped both screws back into place and tightened them down. I then removed 1 quart of new anti-freeze from the new container and added 3 quarts to the car, 3 quarts of water, and cranked it up to check for leaks. I mixed the quart I removed with a quart of water (back in the orrigional container) and put that in a box in the trunk. I don't know the recomended fluid level for the radiator but I will keep an eye on it for the next few weeks and add if necessary.

T
'11 C30 T5

'96 854 - died an early death with 184K miles. Killed by the front end of an LTD on a suicide mission (T-boned and both cars totaled).

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