Need help with setting sequence of repairs

Post by **Ben850** » 26 Nov 2012, 19:26

This may be a silly question, but if you are doing the inner and outer tie rods on that side, Why not just cut the boot and unscrew them from the rack together? You must have been quite frustrated from the looks of that tie rod.
Ofcourse I planned on replacing the boots as well.

That would also give you a very close measurement for the new ones. I think that is what I did with one side at least.

Post by **cmblackburn** » 26 Nov 2012, 19:31

That's what I'm thinking about doing as well. I'm replacing both at once. Seems like it would be less trouble.

Post by **schmidm90** » 26 Nov 2012, 19:36

I ordered a new inner/outer tie rod for the driver side and plan on removing both at the same time right at the rack. This will allow me to get an "accurate" measurement for the new ones. Thanks to FCP for the cybersale!

Will keep everyone posted on how it works out!

Post by **xHeart** » 26 Nov 2012, 19:39

Euphoria!
I have completed ALL items set in my OP. I mean 5 days of work with daily chores of living.
It takes the road like a pro.

Post by **cn90** » 26 Nov 2012, 19:46

Wow, great job.
Nothing beats a strong human will!

Tonyx · Post by **Tonyx** » 25 Jan 2013, 11:37

xHeart wrote:Subframe components are key to restoring stability, but often ignored. Suspension steels the show.

Can you elaborate on this? And any lessons learned from having done your subframe bushing?

Post by **xHeart** » 28 Jan 2013, 11:22

Tonyx wrote:
xHeart wrote:Subframe components are key to restoring stability, but often ignored. Suspension steels the show.
Can you elaborate on this? And any lessons learned from having done your subframe bushing?

Thank you for brining up the subframe bushing back to surface.
The issue is not resolved cause Volvo service says there is no history of replcing it in their shop, ever, on these cars. However, one senior tech did see the collapsed rear-driver's, checked the torque and said it is not going any where.

I asked, if the shop has ever serviced a Volvo this old... Silence.

My car's front ride height is 15" at PS and 14.5" at DS. This difference equals the gap no longer held between the frame and the subframe. I am not sure how geometry works between the two frames.

Picking on it a bit more, I have all 4 new tires now, but on the older ones, the two driver's side inner treads were rounded and flat while the outter was at 8/32. these were rotated at the 3k intervals during the life of it.

I have greatly improved handling since replacing all the front suspension parts, and the rear shocks.

Need help with setting sequence of repairs

Re: Need help with setting sequence of repairs