1998 Volvo v70 xc - awd fuel pump issue?

notfadeaway · Post by **notfadeaway** » 28 Mar 2012, 12:16

I had to run new lines ,

rubber fuel line and those right there . The stock hard plastic/rubber hoses connect to a metal fuel line

mjh130 · Post by **mjh130** » 28 Mar 2012, 17:27

notfadeaway wrote:I had to run new lines , rubber fuel line and those right there . The stock hard plastic/rubber hoses connect to a metal fuel line

Any advice for getting those quick releases off?

notfadeaway · Post by **notfadeaway** » 28 Mar 2012, 17:31

I left them on didn't have much luck getting them off ....felt like humping a doorknob so I switched methods of attack

mjh130 · Post by **mjh130** » 28 Mar 2012, 19:04

Thanks!-I get what you mean. So you left it on, and slipped some hosing over it. No leaks? I've got a part of the original metal elbow still latched onto that black plastic quick release. Not sure I'd get a good seal over it with hosing and clamps? I'm going to keep working at it on my next day off. Thankfully I'm close enough to work I can commute by bike

notfadeaway · Post by **notfadeaway** » 28 Mar 2012, 19:15

the quick connect essentially forms a barb underneath the prev fuel line as does the metal fuel line great seal no leaks . Those clamps work well , don't get the schwaag worm clamps though its to highpressure of a system for those to work

notfadeaway · Post by **notfadeaway** » 28 Mar 2012, 19:19

I had a Mercedes with a w-v-o system before it's whole fuel system was put together using those never leaked

Post by **matthew1** » 14 Jul 2012, 17:33

New mega-well-documented writeup on this: AWD Volvo Fuel Pump Replacement Tutorial by MVS reader Brian. Not sure if he's on this forum, he just sent me that via email.

DurangoStang · Post by **DurangoStang** » 09 Oct 2012, 01:45

I recently replaced the fuel pump on my '99 AWD S70 using the floor cut technique, and I'm still having trouble with the car surging upon start-up, and "sputtering" for a few miles/minutes (even after the surging has stopped). I replaced only the insert (I found a Walbro GJ 235 from a place in England - more on that in another post), and I'm wondering if I put the assembly back together correctly? My theory is that something isn't sealing correctly, thus allowing the system's pressure to dissipate after the car has been off for a few minutes. At the base of the Walbro insert, at the intake tube, there is a blue rubber "doughnut" that fits into a recess at the bottom of the housing. below this, there is a plastic screen, and an orange piece of rubber (that is, if I have this together correctly). This appears to be a check valve. The orange piece is loose below the screen - it can actually rattle around if you shake the assembly. As far as I can tell, this is the correctly assembled, but if someone knows differently, or has some suggestions of things to look for, I'd appreciate your insight. Also, I'm wondering if the seal below the ring where the fuel pump mounts inside the gas tank could be leaking and causing this problem. I had trouble getting it to seal, but think I have it good now (a little finessing was required to get the "lip" around the seal to go around the neck of the tank without being folded under). Finally, there is the possibility that this is a completely new and unrelated problem. Again, any insight into how to fix this would be appreciated (and yes, I'll buy a new assembly if that is what it takes, but would prefer to just fix what I have - partly a $ issue, and now, partly pride!). Thanks in advance.

lookforjoe · Post by **lookforjoe** » 24 Jan 2013, 21:06

Useful resource! Gave me the impetus to cut the floor rather than drop the tank.

OEM style connectors for the fuel lines are available - they are 5/16 quick connect. In my case, I'm installing a DW300 high output pump - requires an extension to the inlet to locate in the stock sender base.

wiring is reversed, so new connector has to be splice & soldered in place

sender ready for reinstall. Since this pump has no side pickup for the fuel that is fed back in the crossover pipe, I cut an opening in the casing to allow the return fuel to drain into the tank

SUR&R quick connect fittings

Thanks to all the others who helped with pics!

Post by **jimmy57** » 25 Jan 2013, 16:57

I'd like to see how this works out. After I spent more money than the new lowered price of the complete pump and sender assembly, I still had fuel starvation with less than 1/4 tank and incomplete pumping of the left bladder of tank.
I did not cut floorboard nor remove suspension. The RH trailing arm removed, the VC extension housing bolt removed, and the over the axle exhaust pipe removed (TX car, this was accomplished with WD-40 and some faint hammer tapping) allowed me to drop rh side of tank enough to get to pump easily. I might also I add I did this repeatedly.
I gave in and purchased the new pump unit complete and it was perfect until I sold the car.

1998 Volvo v70 xc - awd fuel pump issue?

Re: 1998 Volvo v70 xc - awd fuel pump issue?