Drivers door creaks opening/closing

Post by **wheelsup** » 08 Nov 2008, 16:48

My door has just started to creak when opening, I felt around and it appears as though the center metal piece (the one everyone is having issues with) is creaking. However I do not think the metal is damaged, it feels and looks like it's creaking due to lack of lubricant. How do I get to this piece? It looks like I might have to take the door off? I searched and couldn't find a how-to to do it.

-matt

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 08 Nov 2008, 17:33

The door check is a weak link but the door check mount has also been problematic and it is a tougher repair.

Here is a thread that might help you.

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?p=26689

...Lee

mcp · Post by **mcp** » 08 Nov 2008, 17:46

http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/p ... ory_id/165

This is the door check that breaks and starts the creaks, groans and the process of bending the door frame metal until it breaks. Replace this right away and you don't get into welding the door frame where the hinge attaches.

You will need to remove the door panel to get to it.
http://volvospeed.com/Repair/doorpanel_remove.php

I replaced the one on my 1998 S70 and it wasn't too bad of a job.

Post by **wheelsup** » 08 Nov 2008, 18:42

OK looks like I have the standard failure, but I'm not familiar with the jargon...

Can you help name these items in the picture?

A=?
B=?
C=?

Also can I drill with a standard 18V drill and bit?

Thanks,
matt

Post by **wheelsup** » 08 Nov 2008, 18:51

mcp wrote:http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/p ... ory_id/165

This is the door check that breaks and starts the creaks, groans and the process of bending the door frame metal until it breaks. Replace this right away and you don't get into welding the door frame where the hinge attaches.

You will need to remove the door panel to get to it.
http://volvospeed.com/Repair/doorpanel_remove.php

I replaced the one on my 1998 S70 and it wasn't too bad of a job.

Wait so I also need to replace the "door check"? I found the metal is flexing on the inside of the door jam (on the car, not the door). There might be a slight crack although I can't tell until I get the door off I guess.

Also if I just remove the door check will I still be able to lock/unlock the car? Or is it part of the latching mechanism?

Post by **wheelsup** » 08 Nov 2008, 18:57

wheelsup wrote:
A=?
B=?
C=?

OK so I think I figured it out:

A= door check which can be removed by taking the door panel off, I suppose this is the quickest and least expensive "fix" to prevent further metal fatigue?

B= door check as well. Removed same as "A". AKA door "strap"?

C= where the door attaches to. AKA "Check mount"?

I'm trying to follow along that fix and it uses different names.

-matt

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 08 Nov 2008, 20:13

The door check is for sure the easiest to fix. The hardest part is removing the interior door panel. Be aware that the Scan Tech replacement has the wrong thread on the bolt and it will mess up (strip) the mount where it ties into the "A" pillar. Use the old bolt if that is all you need to replace.

The terminology varies from supplier to supplier and hence from writeup to writeup. You have for sure figured out where to look for the problem and it is obvious once you find it.

...Lee

Post by **wheelsup** » 09 Nov 2008, 06:54

Hi Ozark thanks for the tips, out of curiosity how do I know to only replace the door check vs. drilling out the latch? I can see the metal flexing, so I'm assuming the weld is kaput if that is happening? But I can't see any cracks in it yet.

-matt

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 09 Nov 2008, 07:42

From your picture it looks like the A-Pillar is beginning to crack - Directly next to the C.

If you have a good independent mechanic that does a lot of Volvo work they will have encountered this before and they should be able to weld it for you. If you can weld you can give it a shot yourself as well. The real caveat is that the wiring harness for the door is very close to the area you need to weld and it is not uncommon for there to be wiring problems after the repair is made.

Some other folks have used bolts and big fender washers to reinforce the fatigued metal but long term I don't think that will hold up. There was a writeup within the last couple of weeks ago that detailed that repair method.

...Lee

mcp · Post by **mcp** » 09 Nov 2008, 10:21

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.ph ... opic=79630

This page has pictures that may help, but contributes to confusion by referring to the door check/strap as a hinge. (It is not the hinge. It is a "check" to both hold the door open at a certain point and keep the door from opening too far. And yes you may remove it and shut the door and drive. You just have to be careful when opening the door not to sling it too far. There will be no resistance and nothing stopping it.)

When this part breaks and your door starts creaking, it is very important to replace this quickly so that you don't get into the much more difficult repair of welding the door frame.