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98 v70 xc drive shaft removal

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » Project: 1998 Volvo XC70 AWD Drive Shaft Removal
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johngrant67
Posts: 15
Joined: 24 May 2009
Year and Model: v70 xc 2002
Location: Maine

Volvo Repair Database 98 v70 xc drive shaft removal

Post by johngrant67 »

This isn't a new topic, but I couldn't find the thread...

I need to replace the drive shaft (bad center bearing) and I need to know if it's safe to drive without the shaft assembly in place, and, if need to cap the mounting points front and rear.

Thanks,

John G.
Maine
John G.
Maine

holler1
Posts: 756
Joined: 25 June 2008
Year and Model:
Location: West Virginia

Post by holler1 »

From reading this and other forums, lots of people are running former AWD cars w/o the driveshaft. The actual driveshaft unbolts from the angle gear and the viscous coupling at two flexible couplings. Here is a picture of mine at the rear. The front coupling is identical. I have also heard that it's important to mark which bolts are which so they can be put back in the same place for balance. I haven't read anything about the need to cap the shafts after removing the driveshaft. I have never had mine out but did replace the front flex coupling. I'm not familiar with what is needed to replace the center bearing. It might be possible to fix the bearing w/o a complete new shaft.
back of driveshaft.jpg
back of driveshaft.jpg (86.02 KiB) Viewed 22321 times
1998 Volvo V70 AWD 165000-R muffler, HD endlinks, boost gauge
2008 Ford Fusion AWD 107000
2000 Ford Ranger 4wd 172000
1991 Toyota Camry 160000#1
Previous: 1982 Volvo DL (240) 160000
1998 Tacoma, Fords (6), Dodge, Montero,
GTO, Sunbeam Alpine, VW Dasher
---

johngrant67
Posts: 15
Joined: 24 May 2009
Year and Model: v70 xc 2002
Location: Maine

Post by johngrant67 »

very helpful... Thanks, and I've been reading a little about rebuild kits for the center bearing. I'll let you know...

John G.
Maine
John G.
Maine

johngrant67
Posts: 15
Joined: 24 May 2009
Year and Model: v70 xc 2002
Location: Maine

Post by johngrant67 »

Got it apart, kind of. How do I remove the drive shaft from the rear? I removed the "flange" only to expose a bearing that the shaft won't come out of. The front is on the ground, out no prob.

Ideas?

John G.
John G.
Maine

holler1
Posts: 756
Joined: 25 June 2008
Year and Model:
Location: West Virginia

Post by holler1 »

Here is a file on the AWD that has a small section on the prop shaft removal.
volvo v70 EARLY AWD FINAL DRIVE REPLACE.pdf
(945.35 KiB) Downloaded 8225 times
1998 Volvo V70 AWD 165000-R muffler, HD endlinks, boost gauge
2008 Ford Fusion AWD 107000
2000 Ford Ranger 4wd 172000
1991 Toyota Camry 160000#1
Previous: 1982 Volvo DL (240) 160000
1998 Tacoma, Fords (6), Dodge, Montero,
GTO, Sunbeam Alpine, VW Dasher
---

johngrant67
Posts: 15
Joined: 24 May 2009
Year and Model: v70 xc 2002
Location: Maine

Post by johngrant67 »

You saved my bacon. I was thinking about it too much. All it needed was a solid rap with a ball-peen hammer to separate the end of the drive shaft (which houses a really cool omni-directional bearing assembly) from the housing.

Nice! Thanks, I can hit the sack now.

John G.
Maine
John G.
Maine

holler1
Posts: 756
Joined: 25 June 2008
Year and Model:
Location: West Virginia

Post by holler1 »

Yes, that roller-ball-bearing thing is cool. I remember taking the front one apart- 3 years or so ago. I couldn't find any pictures of it.
1998 Volvo V70 AWD 165000-R muffler, HD endlinks, boost gauge
2008 Ford Fusion AWD 107000
2000 Ford Ranger 4wd 172000
1991 Toyota Camry 160000#1
Previous: 1982 Volvo DL (240) 160000
1998 Tacoma, Fords (6), Dodge, Montero,
GTO, Sunbeam Alpine, VW Dasher
---

johngrant67
Posts: 15
Joined: 24 May 2009
Year and Model: v70 xc 2002
Location: Maine

Post by johngrant67 »

To wrap this topic up:

Jack stands required, this isn't worth killing yourself over.

1. Remove two bolts from center exhaust hanger that hold the center bearing support in place. You may have to loosen (or remove) the support itself from the body, four bolts.

2. Remove six 6mm allen-head cap screws from the front and rear "flanges" of the drive shaft.

3. Sharp raps on the rear flange (the rusty part in the image previous to this post) until the rear of the shaft falls free.

4. Remove shaft to the rear of the vehicle.

That exhaust hanger / bearing support may give you trouble at this point, it's no big deal to remove it or at least unbolt it and let it hang on the exhaust pipe while you extract the shaft.

The car handles and runs fine without the drive shaft, but in Maine it makes sense to get a replacement before the snow flies.

Thanks, holler1, I appreciate your help.

John G.
Maine
John G.
Maine

holler1
Posts: 756
Joined: 25 June 2008
Year and Model:
Location: West Virginia

Post by holler1 »

Welcome, and thanks for documenting the removal info.
1998 Volvo V70 AWD 165000-R muffler, HD endlinks, boost gauge
2008 Ford Fusion AWD 107000
2000 Ford Ranger 4wd 172000
1991 Toyota Camry 160000#1
Previous: 1982 Volvo DL (240) 160000
1998 Tacoma, Fords (6), Dodge, Montero,
GTO, Sunbeam Alpine, VW Dasher
---

terrencekeenan
Posts: 40
Joined: 9 February 2006
Year and Model:
Location: St. Louis

Post by terrencekeenan »

How did you determine it was a bad drive shaft bearing.
It looks like these guys were torn over that or a wheel bearing issue:
http://www.s14.net/forums/showthread.php?t=20326

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