From reading this and other forums, lots of people are running former AWD cars w/o the driveshaft. The actual driveshaft unbolts from the angle gear and the viscous coupling at two flexible couplings. Here is a picture of mine at the rear. The front coupling is identical.
1. Remove two bolts from center exhaust hanger that hold the center bearing support in place. You may have to loosen (or remove) the support itself from the body, four bolts.
2. Remove six 6mm allen-head cap screws from the front and rear “flanges” of the drive shaft.
3. Sharp raps on the rear flange (the rusty part in the image previous to this post) until the rear of the shaft falls free.
4. Remove shaft to the rear of the vehicle.
Hello and Happy New Year. I’m happy to report that there have been no adverse reaction to nme removing the driveshaft. Living in the Northeat US, I was afraid that the car wouldn’t handle very well in the snow, but it was fine. Replacing the drive shaft was out of the question becasue of the cost and the book value of the car. It was a bit of a pain to remove in my driveway (I’m not a mechanic), but I”m glad I was able to do it in about 3-4 hours. The biggest pain for me was, since I was working off of jack stands and ramps, I had to spin the tires to get to the bolts which were at the top of the rear differential. I also had to use a couple extenders on my ratchet to get to the front of the shaft where it attached to the transmission. On a scale of 1 to 10 (10 being the hardest), I give this a 7. It was made harder because it wasn;t up on a lift. If it was on a lift, probably a 4.