1998 XC70 (165k)
I have a shuddering/bumping noise coming from the front end during tight turns. The front axles, spring seats, sway bar links, shocks, 2 motor mounts and one control arm have all been replaced recently by a dealer in a futile effort to eliminate the noise. In a different post JRL said my situation was classic bad propshaft. Is there any way to confirm a bad propshaft while it's still on the car on even once is off? I was under the car today looking at the thing, but I just don't know what to look for. I did however notice some oil residue on the bottom of the bevel gear case indicating some leakage. Could a bad bevel gear be causing the bumping noise during tight turns?
If my problem just ends up being the propshaft, I will replace it. If it's one of the other AWD components I will convert to FWD
AWD issues - Diagonosing bad propshaft in xc70
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AWD issues - Diagonosing bad propshaft in XC70
In my case, the front CV joint on the AWD prop shaft failed. However, it made a metallic pinging noise that seemed to come from under the console area, not a grind or clunk from the front. This joint seems to fail a lot and it is right at the back of the bevel gear. Mine threw a lot of grease onto the bottom of the car and I could see that it was misaligned; also it flexed when I pushed it. This CV joint can be replaced. I think any other propshaft problem would cause noise farther back. You might want to try just pushing up and down on the propshaft at various points to see if it is loose.
I'm not familiar with what a bad bevel gear sounds like.
I'm not familiar with what a bad bevel gear sounds like.
1998 Volvo V70 AWD 165000-R muffler, HD endlinks, boost gauge
2008 Ford Fusion AWD 107000
2000 Ford Ranger 4wd 172000
1991 Toyota Camry 160000#1
Previous: 1982 Volvo DL (240) 160000
1998 Tacoma, Fords (6), Dodge, Montero,
GTO, Sunbeam Alpine, VW Dasher
---
2008 Ford Fusion AWD 107000
2000 Ford Ranger 4wd 172000
1991 Toyota Camry 160000#1
Previous: 1982 Volvo DL (240) 160000
1998 Tacoma, Fords (6), Dodge, Montero,
GTO, Sunbeam Alpine, VW Dasher
---
Was under the car a few minutes ago inspecting the propshaft and found the noise maker or at least something wrong. The universals looked fine aside from some rust and had no play, however the center carrier bearing was disintegrated. I guessing the at one point the carrier bearing consisted of outer metal housing, inner rubber dampener, bearing, then driveshaft. Anyway, my rubber dampener is totally disconnected from the outer metal housing and drive shaft is just flopping around in there.
- Attachments
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- Bad Propshaft Center Bearing. It was hard to get a good pic, but if you look closely you see the rubber dampener is broken.
- PA240006.jpg (48.31 KiB) Viewed 10820 times
Black 1998 V70XC 183k+
I was able to get the front CV joint fixed with a kit. It has been fine for several years. I need the AWD for a couple of months every year so was reluctant to go to FWD.
If I can get on my other computer I may have a photo of the "normal" center bearing. I busted the LCD screen on my computer and have to rig it up with another screen.
If I can get on my other computer I may have a photo of the "normal" center bearing. I busted the LCD screen on my computer and have to rig it up with another screen.
1998 Volvo V70 AWD 165000-R muffler, HD endlinks, boost gauge
2008 Ford Fusion AWD 107000
2000 Ford Ranger 4wd 172000
1991 Toyota Camry 160000#1
Previous: 1982 Volvo DL (240) 160000
1998 Tacoma, Fords (6), Dodge, Montero,
GTO, Sunbeam Alpine, VW Dasher
---
2008 Ford Fusion AWD 107000
2000 Ford Ranger 4wd 172000
1991 Toyota Camry 160000#1
Previous: 1982 Volvo DL (240) 160000
1998 Tacoma, Fords (6), Dodge, Montero,
GTO, Sunbeam Alpine, VW Dasher
---
Removed my drive tonight and the bumping sound that haunted me for 2 yrs is gone. The rubber dampener on the center bearing was totally busted. Taking my time, the job took 2 hours. The only trick was you had to have a front and back tire off the ground at the same time so you can put the car in neutral and spin the drive shaft allowing access to all the bolts.
So I'm FWD drive for now and maybe forever...
So I'm FWD drive for now and maybe forever...
Black 1998 V70XC 183k+
WeAre06, I was just about to reply that the center carrier mount was definitly causing your problem when you posted that you removed your driveshaft and found it out for yourself. I just went through this with my 98 V70XC AWD too. I didn't settle for leaving it out and wasn't going to pay 1,100-1,400 at the Volvo dealer for a new one. The dealer will tell you that it cannot be fixed but I'm sure you know from reading here it can be.WeAre06 wrote: So I'm FWD drive for now and maybe forever...
I got a rebuilt one from Colorado Driveshaft www.coloradodriveshaft.com They are really great and make it pretty easy getting a replacement. They pay all the shipping both ways, and in the end you are only out $475 or so. Call them in the morning.
Good luck.
Glad to hear weare06 was able to resolve his issue. I removed mine @ 170K. Does anyone have any insight on why these driveshafts are supposedly superior to standard driveshafts with u-joints? Replaced a u-joint on my yukon- $17.00. Replace volvo shaft =$475 on the low end??
Thats roughly 25 u-joints.
Seems a little over-engineered for a limited slip diffential.
Love the volvo though- she's a keeper...
Thats roughly 25 u-joints.
Love the volvo though- she's a keeper...
Update
I been driving with out the driveshaft for a week now and the car seems... FASTER. All that AWD gear was holding the thing back. On wet roads, I can spin the front wheels like crazy though. Despite the new found quickness I order a new driveshaft from colorado driveshaft. I want the AWD for winter.
I been driving with out the driveshaft for a week now and the car seems... FASTER. All that AWD gear was holding the thing back. On wet roads, I can spin the front wheels like crazy though. Despite the new found quickness I order a new driveshaft from colorado driveshaft. I want the AWD for winter.
Black 1998 V70XC 183k+
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