I'm going to replace the brake fluid and wanted to know if anyone has an opinion on this kit from Harbor Freight:
Brake Bleeder and Vacuum Pump Kit
or can anyone suggest another kit to get - or avoid?
Thanks;
Vince
Brake Bleeder and Vacuum Pump Kit - Any Suggestions?
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vjaneczko
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"He attacked everything in life with a mix of extraordinary genius and naive incompetence, and it was often difficult to tell which was which." - Douglas Adams
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1997 855 GLT - R.I.P.
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cn90
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If you already have an air compressor, then do this DIY.
I wrote it up recently.
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 3&p=131017
I wrote it up recently.
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 3&p=131017
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
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vjaneczko
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Sweet - just wish I had a compressor! I've thought about getting one but without a garage of my own, it's hard to justify one.
"He attacked everything in life with a mix of extraordinary genius and naive incompetence, and it was often difficult to tell which was which." - Douglas Adams
1997 855 GLT - R.I.P.
2006 S60R - For ME!
1997 855 GLT - R.I.P.
2006 S60R - For ME!
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C@lvin
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Vince, I recommend the kit from Harbor Freight that you've linked to.
I originally purchased the Harbor Freight version of the Motive Power Bleeder that uses an air compressor. I found it overly complicated and unwieldy and did not have much success with it. I have been happy with the one which you have linked to (which is the Harbor Freight version of the Mighty Vac).
With both methods, I found that some air gets sucked into the bleed hose (nipple to bottle) through the rubber fitting that slips over the caliper bleeder nipple. There just wasn't a tight enough fit and when you use either the air compressor or the hand pump it will pull in some air. So, what I do is use the hand pump to pull the fluid through until the new fluid starts to come out. Then I raise the bleeder tube above the caliper and let the fluid continue to bleed slowly (gravity or natural air pressure assisted only) without the assistance of the pump until there are no more air bulbbles then tightern the bleeder nut.
As suggested by many others, I start by using a turkey baster to suck the old fluid out of the reservoir then fill it up with new fluid. When you start pumping out the fluid at the wheel keep a check on the reservoir to make sure it doesn't completely empty out and keep adding new fluid as needed. You will eventually get a feel for when to refill the reservoir based upon how much volume you have removed at the wheel.
Using ATE Super Blue fluid is extremely handy because you know the new fluid has reached the wheel because of the color. ATE also makes an amber fluid with the same specs as the blue so you can alternate back and forth on the color each time you change the fluid. In addition the ATE fluid has higher wet and dry boiling points than standard DOT4 fluid.
I originally purchased the Harbor Freight version of the Motive Power Bleeder that uses an air compressor. I found it overly complicated and unwieldy and did not have much success with it. I have been happy with the one which you have linked to (which is the Harbor Freight version of the Mighty Vac).
With both methods, I found that some air gets sucked into the bleed hose (nipple to bottle) through the rubber fitting that slips over the caliper bleeder nipple. There just wasn't a tight enough fit and when you use either the air compressor or the hand pump it will pull in some air. So, what I do is use the hand pump to pull the fluid through until the new fluid starts to come out. Then I raise the bleeder tube above the caliper and let the fluid continue to bleed slowly (gravity or natural air pressure assisted only) without the assistance of the pump until there are no more air bulbbles then tightern the bleeder nut.
As suggested by many others, I start by using a turkey baster to suck the old fluid out of the reservoir then fill it up with new fluid. When you start pumping out the fluid at the wheel keep a check on the reservoir to make sure it doesn't completely empty out and keep adding new fluid as needed. You will eventually get a feel for when to refill the reservoir based upon how much volume you have removed at the wheel.
Using ATE Super Blue fluid is extremely handy because you know the new fluid has reached the wheel because of the color. ATE also makes an amber fluid with the same specs as the blue so you can alternate back and forth on the color each time you change the fluid. In addition the ATE fluid has higher wet and dry boiling points than standard DOT4 fluid.
Calvin
98 S70
00 V70
Previous:
240,245,760,940,850 Turbo
98 S70
00 V70
Previous:
240,245,760,940,850 Turbo
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JDS60R
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Both styles of bleeder will work.
IMO you would be best served by a pressure bleeder that can be made of a garden sprayer and a brake master cylinder res cap. This is the same as a motive bleeder it just costs less.
When choosing a brake fluid :
You vehicle requires "DOT 4 plus" fluid. It has a thinner viscosity and allows your ABS and Tracs to work properly/faster and provides you a safety margin. Using a thicker fluid will not hurt the system, only the performance of the system
ATE SL.6 is a replacement that is just shy of the boiling point. Volvo Dot 4+ brake fluid is currently the only brake fluid meeting the specs that I can find. If anyone has found a fluid that meets the boiling points and low viscosity specs please post it.
I have Castrol GT LMA, ATE 200 and ATE Super Blue here- none of them meet the viscosity spec(too thick). I believe the larger container of Volvo fluid is cheaper than the same amount in four small ones. IPD has SL.6
IMO you would be best served by a pressure bleeder that can be made of a garden sprayer and a brake master cylinder res cap. This is the same as a motive bleeder it just costs less.
When choosing a brake fluid :
You vehicle requires "DOT 4 plus" fluid. It has a thinner viscosity and allows your ABS and Tracs to work properly/faster and provides you a safety margin. Using a thicker fluid will not hurt the system, only the performance of the system
ATE SL.6 is a replacement that is just shy of the boiling point. Volvo Dot 4+ brake fluid is currently the only brake fluid meeting the specs that I can find. If anyone has found a fluid that meets the boiling points and low viscosity specs please post it.
I have Castrol GT LMA, ATE 200 and ATE Super Blue here- none of them meet the viscosity spec(too thick). I believe the larger container of Volvo fluid is cheaper than the same amount in four small ones. IPD has SL.6
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