2000 S70 No Start, feel like I've tried everything...

tjmonjay · Post by **tjmonjay** » 04 Apr 2012, 07:22

Hey Guys,

I have been using this site to try and fix the issue with my 2000 S70 and this is my last effort before I junk the thing.

The car is not starting at the moment and I have already replaced the following - MAF, camshaft position sensor, ETM, battery, checked the grounding wires, fuel pump is working, and I am getting a spark (when ETS light comes on read next paragraph).

The symptoms are as follows - The engine just cranks but will not start, the one notable symptom is the ETS, Oil, and Check Engine lights will not turn on right away when the key is in position II. However if I keep the key in II position long enough those lights do turn on and the car will start (running like hell but running).

The only thing I can think of is the ABS module is finally fried. I am having it rebuilt tomorrow but if that does not fix the issue I am scrapping the car as I can not throw any more money in the toilet

EDIT: I also have pulled the codes and am not getting anything, could I possibly have a CPS wire that is faulty somewhere? The part is brand new.

Post by **fazool** » 04 Apr 2012, 08:56

Just a couple thoughts to help you from getting too frustrated.

It could be one very small thing completely preventing a start (or it could be something really bad). You just won't know until you know.

Whenever the situation seems unsolveable, I always say "go back to the basics"

To run a car needs the following related things:
1. A fuel supply of the right amount at the right time : proper fuel pressure and injector timing/opening
2. Fresh air supply : sufficient airflow in the proper amounts
3. Spark to ignite the combustion : with proper timing for the combustion cycle
4. Compression : to create the volatile mixture, along with compressing at the correct time

"Timing" is actually a sub-set of every one of those. So they all need to be there AND they need to be there at the correct time so you can't lump bad timing.

Knock down the easy ones first: Air flow. If you have air flow available, then usually it will be enough to start/run

Spark: you may see a spark but can you tell if its sparking at the correct moment? If your timing is off then it will spark but not ignite. You need to check the crank position sensor, cam position sensor, spark timing etc.

Fuel supply: The fuel pump is working but is sufficient fuel pressure getting to the injectors? Are they firing and are they firing at the proper time? Check the fuel rail pressure level and eliminate supply as a contributor, then focus on timing of fuel delivery

Compression: Harder to test but a compression gauge could help a lot here.

If you have compression and your timing belt didnt break/slip. If you have fuel pressure and the injectors are opening. If you have spark, then I would bet you certainly have all the right ingredients but they must be happening at the wrong time.

If thats the case, then something is telling the system the wrong timing info and that suggests a bad sensor (such as listed above).

Do what you can to whittle that list down:

1a) Fuel supply - check fuel rail for pressure
1b) Injectors opening - are they squirting fuel in ? Are they opening?
1c) Squirt starting fluid in as a fuel source and see if everything starts temporarily
2a) Do you have open airflow?
2b) No obstructions in air intake/ throttle plate?
3c) Spark in ALL cylinders?
3d) spark timing ? Is ignition timing proper?
4) Test for compression

I am suspicious that one of those things will "fail" to be proper and then you can go down the root cause path for that.

My bet is on 3d, which could come from multiple sensor failure (crankPS camPS, TPS, etc)

But, resist the temptation to JUMP at one likely cause and guess the most likely culprit. If you do that you will ned up throwing money at the problem, replacing things before you know if they are the cause.

Take a deep breath, slow down, go through those checks, then report back here.

Post by **rmmagow** » 04 Apr 2012, 09:05

Do you have junk yard access to another computer? It would be a shame to dump the car if it's just a cooked cpu. Also, are there key parts of the CPU that can be checked, grounds, major connectors, perhaps the ECU got wet somehow or knocked out of place. And a quick check of the timing belt, (compression test will possibly give you low reading across the board if the belt jumped), The ABS shouldn't affect starting. What's the CPS? The thing you plug an OBD Reader into?
How did it fail on you the first time? Just a no start?

tjmonjay · Post by **tjmonjay** » 04 Apr 2012, 09:12

Sorry for the acronyms, the CPS is the crankshaft position sensor. ETM = TPS also just in case. I replaced the TPS with a XemodeX model in case that matters.

The first time it failed the car wouldn't start on my lunch break. It cranked as it does now but wouldn't start up. I would let the key sit in the II position and after a while the ETS, check engine, and oil light all come on (All the other lights come on as they should). When that happens the car starts and can be driven, it does not stall (or at least hasn't yet).

I am currently at work and can't work on the car until after, however I will update once I do the following, thanks for the quick responses, your guys are great here!

tjmonjay · Post by **tjmonjay** » 04 Apr 2012, 09:37

Also a very important thing I forgot to mention I do not get a spark until that ETS, check engine, and oil light come on.

Post by **rmmagow** » 04 Apr 2012, 09:55

Sounds like an ECM/ECM wiring issue. Be nice if you could find a known good for a small price.

tjmonjay · Post by **tjmonjay** » 04 Apr 2012, 10:12

I can take a look at the ECM again, however I literally replaced last night with a brand new one.

tjmonjay · Post by **tjmonjay** » 04 Apr 2012, 16:45

Ok guys, after some troubleshooting i have found a bandaid that may help diagnose this issue.

When I disconnect the battery terminals and touch them then reconnect them the car will start right up. Here is where things get strange:

Following steps:
1) I touch terminals and reconnect battery
2) I put key in position II and all lights turn on properly and car will start if i crank it.
3) I do not start the car and take key completely out
4) I return the key to the II position and the problem has returned (oil, check engine, and ETS light do not come on and car will not start)
5) When I pull the codes after i have touched the terminals together everything is normal, however when i take the key out and put it back in and try and pull the codes it doesn't read anything...

Could the ECU be bad here?

Post by **fazool** » 04 Apr 2012, 20:49

sounds ike a bad ECU

tjmonjay · Post by **tjmonjay** » 04 Apr 2012, 21:12

What am I looking at price wise to have this fixed? I know it can't be swapped out with a new piece correct? I will have to go to a dealer?