Engine swap questions 850 Turbo into S70 T5 ..Update

[nitehawk55]

****Update , found a good 1998 S70 T5 instread of the 850****

Hello , this is my first post .

I have a 1998 S70 that has a bad engine (oil starvation/broken oil cooler line) and I was wondering if the 2.3 turbo from a 1996 850 would be a difficult swap ? I relise the turbo is different but is there any other differences of concern besides sensors and the like .
Engine will be coming out of vehical with automatic (engine/turbo rebuilt at aprox 200K km/120K miles)and into the S70 which has a 5 speed and is a one owner with 168K km/110 K miles . I plan on going over it before dropping it in of course and the timing belt , seals and gaskets will be looked at...suggestions on what I may be missing ??

I should add that I was a certified auto mechanic for years and retired from it in the mid 80's . I also worked for Stihl chainsaws and power equipment for 17 years so I do have a fairly good technical background

This is not my first venture with Volvo , my first was a 1966 122S 2dr with a borg-warner 3 speed auto (dog out of the gate but once you got it rolling ) , some 140 series and my last an 1987 740 intercooler that I should have never sold but that is going back about 10 years now so it's been a while since owning a Volvo and these FWD are not as friendly to work on as the old ones .

Also , I don't have all the technical manuals but what other parts might be harvested from this 850 doner car that would work in the S70 ?


Thanks in advance ,
John

[byeboy]

Engine swaps can be very tricky now-a-days, primarily because we now drive computers down the road. I'd only swap the engine-for-engine, and keep the intake, exhaust and transmissions the same, if possible. If you try to put the automatic engine into your car it may well "not compute", making it un-drivable, or at the least, not able to pass inspection because of a CEL.

[jimmy57]

You are in luck with this swap. The turbo outlets for down pipe are the same and the secondary air injection feed is in the down pipe. The other items are interchangeable from 98 onto the 96 engine. Swap intakes to keep your fuel supply as there is difference in that area. The 96 may have EGR that can be blocked on exh manifold as 98 does not use EGR system.

[nitehawk55]

Hi Jimmy , I have all the parts from the blown S70 engine . You mention the intake manifold but could the exaust/turbo from the S70 not be exchanged as well ?
My thinking is pull both engines and exchange whatever from the blown engine to the 850 engine . Is this do-able without any physical differences ?

I guess this is what you are suggesting byeboy and I do want to stay with the standard tranny for best fuel economy/performance . Not looking to do mods , plan on keeping things pretty much stock . To old for pimping

[jimmy57]

If your existing turbo on the bum engine is good then swap that too for better performance.
The base engines are the same.

When doing engine swaps between years there often are little things you stumble into that are unforeseen. If your S70 was a 99 you'd be in a whole different place. Sensors and wires and lots of stuff would have to changed and that is even without the issues variable cam timing creates.

[nitehawk55]

Well as luck would have it I had not purchased the 850 and did find a 1998 S70 T5 with a good engine that was gone over by a local Volvo Guru about 50K km / 30K miles ago that was in an guard rail accident so panals on the left are crumpled a bit . So it's now a pair of 1998 S70 T5's one with auto , the other with 5 speed which is the one that will receive the engine as I'm partial to stick plus it will give better milage as most of my driving is Hwy .

I'd like to find more info on pulling the engines and if it's best to pull with or without the tranny (the who proceedure in general)as well as other info like pull the rad to make more room ?

[jimmy57]

I have removed and re-installed T5 engines several times lately.

I didn't take pictures.

Drain coolant via the drain on back of engine towards t belt end of engine. No need to drain rad unless you want it drained.

Disconnect battery, remove it for some more room if you desire or need to clean anything up around battery.

Remove air cleaner housing completely. This means the fresh air hose to rad top and then the air scoop over rad top.

Remove hose down to turbo. Take note of the hoses that attach to this hose near MAF sensor end.

Remove throttle hose, and the hose and pipe from turbo down by throttle to the metal tube to lower intercooler. Hard pipe to lower icooler is not in your way.
Find the TX25 screws at top of the shroud extension and remove those. The rad is now a little flexible to tip back and allow the access to upper icooler hose so it can be removed. Take off the pipe from computerbox and remove the comp box top by prying the stainless tabs (2).
Unplug the wires from the fan relay and undo the cable tie for the across shroud harness. Take note of hoses from the purge valve and the secondary solenoid. Note wires too. the sec air solenoid will slide out of the upper shroud. Undo the two 8 mm bolts holding the fan shroud to rad. Now the fan shroud will tip back and you can slide the upper shroud straight up. Move all wires/harness back onto motor a bit and make sure they are all clear from shroud. Lift shroud straight up. It is tight and the shroud barely clears the idle air control valve. The oil cooler hoses will hang you up a bit too.
Unplug starter sol wire and then undo the batt cables to starter. Remove the one starter brace bolt to block and then undo the two starter bolts through bell hsg. The harness over trans will give you a fit so you undo the nut for the harness clamp and then it will move over. Set starter aside.
disconnect a/c clutch wire, ect sensor lead, alternator wires, knock sensor double leads into the one connector, oil p switch wire, and the one bolt through ground wire. Take out the one bolt under intake holding dipstick tube and lift out tube then plug the hole with something, at least on the good motor.
Use circlip spreader pliers and open the clip on each oil cooler hose at rad so the hose slips out.
Remove p/s pump. release tension on serp belt and set belt off. remove the three bolts through the holes in pulley. bolts are are at 4;30,8;30, and 10;30.
Unplug the injectors, crank sensor, cam sensor, throttle pos sensor, IAC valve and lay those harnesses aside.
There is a bolt closer to motor through bracket, and the one you see forward that passes thru alt and the p/s bracket. Also remove the long bolt through crash bracket that passes over the reservoir.
Pump can be set aside and wired to something to stay put and out of the way.
Now remove a/c comp. Take off the idler roller for serp belt by popping it s cap off and taking out the 12mm bolt. the top front comp 14mm bolt is accessible now. I suggest removing the computer box for a little more room and to prevent breaking the box with engine. One bolt by washer tank fill and three of the stainless spring tabs to pry out and then slide box straight up. Remove the coolant tank, unplug the sensor wire, and set it aside too. Box pulls straight up.
undo that top comp bolt and then under RH wheel housing take off the one 10mm plastic nut and fold the lower fender liner back where it is hinged. use vise grips to clip it back The lower comp bolt is now accessible with a 14mm swivel socket(universal joint socket). The back two compressor bolts can be unscrewed . The back two bolts thread into an aluminum bracket-nut gizmo. it will fall out. You'll cuss this piece on re-install......
Set compressor towards rad and wire it to stay put. undo the oil cooler hoses from block and the fitting they go into on front of engine oil pan and set those oil dripping hoses aside.
I now undo the auto trans torque converter bolts (6 TX 47 or TX50) through the starter hole. Use a socket 30 mm or 1 3/16 on crank nut to turn engine. There is an access opening on bck of block too but I prefer to stand up front as to lay on back to use the back access. The back hole is so small that you can't drop TC bolts into bell housing, not important for removal but is important on install.
The two under front of crank should stay for now but rememeber those for later for when you are ready to lift it out.
Take the turbo shield off. The bolt on rear edge of shield and the two bolts with springs. The shield will sort of roll out of place.
take off the three turbo flange exhaust pipe bolts. Also remove the sec air tube with check valve.
Squeeze the sides of the heater hose pipes at the firewall connection and those will slide out.
You can now take out all but two easy to reach engine to trand bolts. Take note of their location and lengths, they do vary. 4 across top facing trans, 2 down front below where starter was removed, 3 facing front of engine behind engine upper, and the 4 down low. all 14 mm heads The lower rad hose should be removed and folded forward to get the uppers as the hose has to be disconnected. And you should have removed the upper rad hose a long time ago but I forgot to mention that.

Attach chain from the hole in top of p/s bracket all the way over to back of head/block. I go down to the lower bolt for the torque mount bracket and make sure any hoses are not behind chain for chain to crush.
The tricky part now is to use a short length of chain and a hardware store turnbuckle to give the engine support for leveling.
Attach your engine lift to the chain and then lift it up to put pressure on the chain. now you can remove the front engine mount bolts. use the second chain and turn buckle attached to midpoint of main chain and I use the back top stud on turbo (oh, by the way, pull the exhaust pipe off utrbo and wire to the rh side of sngine compartment somewhere to keep it clear of turbo 3 inches or so) and then tighten the turnbuckle to put a good bit of pressure on the second chain. Don't buy the little fragile turnbuckle, get one with 3/8" or 10mm thread stock.
The engine will want to lay back too much and the second chain supports it to keep it at its correct angle so getting it out of trans and back in for install is not such a fight or chance to mess something up.
On FWD you will need to support trans with jack or other way as it will be resting on subframe but unsupported otherwise.
The engine will go the RH side enough to clear the trans by a fraction then lift 'er out.
OH, take the two braided ground straps off the cam cover up top, 10 mm bolts.

on putting it back in: the concentric slave cylinder (98's built from early 97 to may 97 have the external slave with release arm, from that point afterwards the slave fitted around input shaft integral with release bearing is used) will make you have to push the engine into bell housing as the slave has a spring and it will be extended requiring you to push clutch against it.

[nitehawk55]

Thanks for that Jimmy , great overview on proceedure and I'll be sure to make notes and diagrams as well as mark hoses , connectors and the like as it looks like lots of them and I'm sure I'll need to do that to make sure to find where they go.

I'll take the busted engine out first and then the good one . Likely the time to do the PVC service or see if it needs it . No oil leaks at all visable on the doner car , it runs fine but the check engine light is on for the first few minutes it runs so I should maybe try and get a trouble code on that before I start to pull it .

Funny , been several years since I've done an engine swap . Used to jump into it and think nothing of it , now I seem over cautious and a bit aprehensive (sp?) about doing it .

Used to pull the engines in my old Subaru's in 45 minutes without hardly breaking a sweat !

[jblackburn]

Great time to change the water pump and cam seals too...when you can actually SEE what you're doing!

[erikv11]

This guide is for an NA but with the amazing info from jimmy57 and these pics, you should be good to go.

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=28973