Need some help. I have a 1996 Volvo 850. Here is the history and current problem with my vehicle.
- When starting the vehicle, I began noticing that I had to turn the engine over several times, through turning the key on and off, before the car would start.
- I inadvertantly ran the fuel tank low and car started missing before making it to the gas station. I did not run the car completly out of fuel.
- Filled the tank and proceeded to drive; however, the car "threatened" to stall but didn't.
- Parked the car at work for approximately 3 hours. It started immediately, started to drive away, and the engine died.
- The car would start again and then immediately die. I thought it may be the fuel filter (was old) or the fuel pump was the problem.
- I changed the fuel filter. No change in problem.
- I changed the fuel pump. The car started right up; however, died almost immediately. Was able to get the car started and the problem intially seemed to have gone away.
- The problems that I am now experiencing are; I have to, using the key on/off cycling, turn the engine over several times to start, the engine rpms may surge and then die (not all the time), drive the vehicle but the engine may die when coming to a stop.
Can anyone assit me in this? I appreciate any assistance thatcan be provided.
Mike
1996 Volvo Engine Surging and Dies
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jblackburn
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 14042
- Joined: 08 Jun 2008, 15:54
- Year and Model: 1998 S70 T5
- Location: Alexandria, VA
- Has thanked: 9 times
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Turn the key on once, then go press the valve at the fuel rail with a rag in your hand to see if there is fuel pressure at the rail.
No fuel pressure? You've got a bad check valve in the fuel pump assembly - you just replaced the pump insert itself rather than the whole expensive assembly, right?
As far as the stuttering, try jumpering your fuel pump relay. The upper fuse panel has 3 Torx screws around the edges. Remove them, lift the cover up, and pull out #103. Stick a jumper wire between pins 15 and 87 and go drive around for a bit and see how it behaves. If that cures the problem, you just need a new relay.
No fuel pressure? You've got a bad check valve in the fuel pump assembly - you just replaced the pump insert itself rather than the whole expensive assembly, right?
As far as the stuttering, try jumpering your fuel pump relay. The upper fuse panel has 3 Torx screws around the edges. Remove them, lift the cover up, and pull out #103. Stick a jumper wire between pins 15 and 87 and go drive around for a bit and see how it behaves. If that cures the problem, you just need a new relay.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
I appreciate the reply and information. I replaced the fuel pump vice the whole assembly.
When I get home this evening I will try your suggestions and let you know of the outcome.
IRT to the fuel pressure, I will check that first, the relay second.
R/S,
Mike
When I get home this evening I will try your suggestions and let you know of the outcome.
IRT to the fuel pressure, I will check that first, the relay second.
R/S,
Mike
I tested the fuel pressure at the fuel rail valve with a guage. I have 48 lbs pressure.
I did not test the fuel relay; however, I simply replaced it with a new one as the vehicle has over 130K and the relay is the original.
The problem still exists and the car tried leaving me stranded this morning. It simply died on the road. I was able to get it stareted and back home.
Are there any more suggestions out there?
I did not test the fuel relay; however, I simply replaced it with a new one as the vehicle has over 130K and the relay is the original.
The problem still exists and the car tried leaving me stranded this morning. It simply died on the road. I was able to get it stareted and back home.
Are there any more suggestions out there?
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Ben850
- Posts: 1613
- Joined: 08 Sep 2011, 13:53
- Year and Model: 1996 850 R Wagon
- Location: Michigan
- Been thanked: 7 times
These were the exact symptoms of the '96 turbo wagon that I recently bought.
I first replaced all lines to the turbo control valve. If you have N/A check all vacuum lines for leaks, PCV tubes and lines as well.
I traded MAFs, TCMs, even an ECU.
Those and a few other things did not stop the symptoms. What finally DID solve the problem was replacing both O2 sensors. It is running nicely in all power ranges, no stalling, stuttering or fluctuating idle.
It is my story. I paid $650.00 for the turbo wagon because the owner could not figure it out and didn't want to throw any more parts at it.
Good luck.
I first replaced all lines to the turbo control valve. If you have N/A check all vacuum lines for leaks, PCV tubes and lines as well.
I traded MAFs, TCMs, even an ECU.
Those and a few other things did not stop the symptoms. What finally DID solve the problem was replacing both O2 sensors. It is running nicely in all power ranges, no stalling, stuttering or fluctuating idle.
It is my story. I paid $650.00 for the turbo wagon because the owner could not figure it out and didn't want to throw any more parts at it.
Good luck.
1993 850 GLT , You wouldn't know it.
1996 850 Turbo Wagon White.
1995 T-5R Black. New work in progress.
1998 V70 XC Cross Country White.
1994 850 N/A Wagon Black.
1997 850 Sedan Black.
1996 850R Wagon White.
1997 850 Sedan Red ( not white or black!)
1996 850 Turbo Wagon White.
1995 T-5R Black. New work in progress.
1998 V70 XC Cross Country White.
1994 850 N/A Wagon Black.
1997 850 Sedan Black.
1996 850R Wagon White.
1997 850 Sedan Red ( not white or black!)
Good to know about what you had done to chase down your problem. The O2 sensors are more than likely original as well. Autozone prices for the upstream is $139.99 and downstream is $130.99. Rock Auto prices are upstream is $40.89 and downstream is $37.79. Idon't understand why the huge gap bewteen Autozone and Rock Auto.
I beleive that my engine code is B5254FS; however, where on the vehicle can I conifrm that?
I will also check for vacuum leaks.
I beleive that my engine code is B5254FS; however, where on the vehicle can I conifrm that?
I will also check for vacuum leaks.
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jblackburn
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 14042
- Joined: 08 Jun 2008, 15:54
- Year and Model: 1998 S70 T5
- Location: Alexandria, VA
- Has thanked: 9 times
- Been thanked: 20 times
Rock Auto's are more than likely some off-brand sensor. I've never seen a GOOD O2 sensor for $40. I'd suggest looking on Amazon.850Volvo wrote:Good to know about what you had done to chase down your problem. The O2 sensors are more than likely original as well. Autozone prices for the upstream is $139.99 and downstream is $130.99. Rock Auto prices are upstream is $40.89 and downstream is $37.79. Idon't understand why the huge gap bewteen Autozone and Rock Auto.
I beleive that my engine code is B5254FS; however, where on the vehicle can I conifrm that?
I will also check for vacuum leaks.
https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-15097-Oxyge ... automotive
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
-
jpr0204
- Posts: 242
- Joined: 08 Jan 2013, 09:43
- Year and Model: 12' XC70 Prem. Plus
- Location: Easton, PA
At those prices from Rock Auto are they showing them to be a "Direct Fit / Plug N' Play" sensor? Or... is it one of the "universal have-to-cut- and splice-in" sensors?
Just curious? If they are the "universal" ones, stay away. Also, as Justin said, if they are a no-name brand, stay away as well. Shell out the couple extra bucks for a decent brand, Walker, Bosch, Denso, etc...
- Joe
Just curious? If they are the "universal" ones, stay away. Also, as Justin said, if they are a no-name brand, stay away as well. Shell out the couple extra bucks for a decent brand, Walker, Bosch, Denso, etc...
- Joe
Current Vehicles:
20' Kia Sorento (Lease) (Fiancé's car) Currently at 19,500 miles
12' Volvo XC70 Premier Plus AWD Currently at 95K miles
12' Yamaha V-Star 950 EFI Tourer (My daily summer crusier) Currently at 5K miles
04' Yamaha V-Star 650 Classic (Fiancé's daily summer cruiser) Currently at 16K miles.
20' Kia Sorento (Lease) (Fiancé's car) Currently at 19,500 miles
12' Volvo XC70 Premier Plus AWD Currently at 95K miles
12' Yamaha V-Star 950 EFI Tourer (My daily summer crusier) Currently at 5K miles
04' Yamaha V-Star 650 Classic (Fiancé's daily summer cruiser) Currently at 16K miles.
-
Ben850
- Posts: 1613
- Joined: 08 Sep 2011, 13:53
- Year and Model: 1996 850 R Wagon
- Location: Michigan
- Been thanked: 7 times
I was fortunate to find sensors at the pick and pull. They are both Bosch and they appeared to be recently installed with a new converter, which had been cut from the car already, but the sensors were in tact. $8.00 each.
These are the ones from FCP.
http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-o ... -v70-15097
http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-o ... -v70-15062
These are the ones from FCP.
http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-o ... -v70-15097
http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-o ... -v70-15062
1993 850 GLT , You wouldn't know it.
1996 850 Turbo Wagon White.
1995 T-5R Black. New work in progress.
1998 V70 XC Cross Country White.
1994 850 N/A Wagon Black.
1997 850 Sedan Black.
1996 850R Wagon White.
1997 850 Sedan Red ( not white or black!)
1996 850 Turbo Wagon White.
1995 T-5R Black. New work in progress.
1998 V70 XC Cross Country White.
1994 850 N/A Wagon Black.
1997 850 Sedan Black.
1996 850R Wagon White.
1997 850 Sedan Red ( not white or black!)
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