New Project - 2000 V70 SE NA - 5 speed auto Topic is solved

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's extremely popular car line -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, 850 R, 850 T5-R, 850 T5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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scot850
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Volvo Repair Database New Project - 2000 V70 SE NA - 5 speed auto

Post by scot850 »

New Volvo project – 2000 V70 SE NA – 5 Speed auto – Mileage approx. 270,000km.

I have been lucky to be allowed to look this car over fairly thoroughly (although you never find everything).
I’ve been looking for a 98 V70 T-5 auto for about 3 months and no luck, right across Canada. Best that came up either had blown trans, were manual needing new clutches, or head gaskets failed.

I widened my search to any 98-00 V/C/S 70 turbo or non-turbo, manual or auto, mileage ideally under 250,000km. Again nothing! Eventually I put a ‘Wanted’ add on Kijiji here in Calgary, and got a few bites, but again cars had issues.

What I wanted was either a good car, or one needing some work, that I can use as a test bed for all the electrical parts I have from ECC system (fans/resistor packs/temp sensors) to Radios/CD players and amplifiers and cables. I have too many so I’m deciding to downsize the ‘stash’, but don’t want to sell parts unless I know they are good first!

After seeing several cars I was offered, I got close on a 89 V70 T-5 with manual trans, but had some front end panel damage. Owner had replacement panels in correct color. Problem was the car had been standing, was under layer of snow and had a bad battery. Oh, and it was -20C in a storage compound at the other end of the city!

Owner ran a business repairing damaged cars and has a thing for P80’s. Eventually we got the car running and over to my house and he left if for a few days for me to check over. Mechanically the car needing a little work, panels aligned and fitted. Problem was once the car had dried out I found the windshield had not been sealed properly and had rusted out along the whole top edge of the roof above the windshield. He said it could be fixed cheaply, but the added cost took the car value too high. My plan was to break even on costs and once the parts were tested sell the car on.

In frustration, I got back to a nice lady who had contacted me with a V70 base (she said it was a 99) that had the flashing orange arrow of doom, on the dash and an engine check light. After thinking about it more I told her to bring the car over and I’d run a diagnostic with my Dice unit to see what the problems were. The Dice unit connected up ok, but gave no codes, but also strangely no ID to the trans type. I didn’t think anymore about it as I rejected the car as having a bad trans. It turned out the car was a 2000 MY and has the 5 speed auto.

I decided to do some more checking as the fact the trans warning came on at the same time as the engine check light sounded familiar and good old MVS and all the wonderful helpers here identified a possible cause might be the PNP switch. I tired the ‘rowing’ but no different.
I explained that if the trans was bad, then the car was about $500 CDN as scrap due to cost of replacing the trans outweighed the car value as I can’t do the swap out. She decided to keep the car.

I spoke to my friend the foreman at the local dealer and explained the problem and he said to bring it in and they’d charge an hour diagnostic. I felt the $170 CDN was worth the risk and contacted the owner just before Christmas. She had changed her mind about keeping the car, and said it would be ok for me to take the car to the dealer to have it checked and I could buy it for $500. I agreed that I would pay for the diagnostic and if the trans was good, then I’d buy the car but if bad it went back home.

I arranged to take the car to the dealer and the explained the issue to the mechanic and he found the same issue of a comms issue with the TCU to the trans. He went ahead and pulled the ECU and TCU and found build up on the contacts (dirt and oxidation). He carefully cleaned the contacts with a Wurth product and cotton bud and re-fitted and removed a couple of times. He then got a communication link and pulled all codes and re-set. I had already identified that the trans was un-likely the issue when I drove it to the dealer as it was not in limp mode, and all gears were working which meant the PNP was an un-likely culprit.

Only other codes that were thrown were some ABS codes but no light was on, so possibly un-cleared old codes. Car ran fine on the way home and so far so good.

Drive did show a couple of other issues of strange handling (a strange pivoting from the rear) and brakes that were off at the rear (new front brakes).

I have been through the car from front to rear now and identified the problems and costs of parts and have offered the owner $800 CDN ($600 US). This is maybe a little high but she is a single mother with 2 older boys. She has been trying to keep the car going for the boys to use, but has been ripped off by repair shops. Have to admire a lady that takes her 2 boys to PnP for parts and then fits them herself!
She is delighted that I am buying the car, and I have now discovered it is an SE model with fog-lights, Homelink, tailgate spoiler, winter and summer tires, roof rails and roof box, and leather interior. Car needs love but now with my parts list of parts that have to be replaced and the nice-to-have list also (new rear springs to replace the sagging and rusted but not broken rears, front and rear engine mounts and a few other parts).
My plan is to fix the parts and run it as planned, but if it turns out to be a nice running car I may just keep it and sell the ‘R’ in the summer instead!

THE CAR

So what have I gone and bought? Probably close to the least desirable specification P80 as I could get! 5 speed auto (hmmm), non-turbo, and ETM. Colour is one of my favourites in Dark Blue. The advantage is it hides a lot of paint issues, and this one has a few! Some peeling paint on the rear bumper, a few scrapes on the rear of the trunk spoiler, some dents in the roof (loading/un-loading the top box??) and a 2-3 more small parking dents in the LH rear panel. Paint appears otherwise sound and no obvious body rot. Interior is beige leather and needs a good clean. The front door cards have de-laminated and need re-glued, and someone has done a poor repair to split drivers seat seam.

Other pluses are: SE spec, with roof rails, fog-lights, Homelink, leather, ECC, and an aftermarket tow hitch that is wired (could do with re-painting and wiring plug checked). Car has had the PCV system re-built 2.5 years ago by Volvo specialist, timing belt is not due for 3 years/70,000km), all rotors and pads have been replaced in the last 30,000km (fronts again in last 1000km).

The issues/needs:
- Rear shocks – one is very rusty and damp. I am assuming it has failed and hence the strange handling at the rear
- Rear parking brake is not working on LHS and average on RHS – cable is frozen
- Rear LH caliper is frozen. Hence strange braking, but repair shop replaced fronts?
- Needs a full service
- Trans issue fixed by dealer. Bad comms from corroded contacts on TCU.
- Top torque mount failed, and crank pulley mount separated
- RH outer CV boot failed
- Rear muffler mount rusted and sheared off
- Rear winter tires need replaced
- Front winter tires have been replaced but were left at 50+psi by installer!
- RH front door actuator failed.

That is the main issues and some dash lights need replaced but overall car has possibilities and
I like it has no moon-roof so I have more headroom! Car also ran really smoothly and the positive of the 5 speed auto is it accelerates quicker in gears as it stays on torque for longer.
Now looking at sourcing parts, and if I decide to keep will replace some other older but still functioning parts like rear rusted/saggy springs, rear flexi brake hoses (front already done).

Pictures:

Sorry the pictures are not better but it was blow -20C and dark outside and roads are slushy!
2000 V70 SE (1)
2000 V70 SE (1)
2000 V70 SE (2)
2000 V70 SE (2)
2000 V70 SE (3)
2000 V70 SE (3)
2000 V70 SE (4)
2000 V70 SE (4)
2000 V70 SE (5)
2000 V70 SE (5)
2000 V70 SE (6)
2000 V70 SE (6)
I'll add to the thread as time allows and any progress is made. Off now to pay for the car and order parts!

Neil.
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - New project and test bed - Sold

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skloon
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Post by skloon »

Looks like a good starting point- sad to see how cheap we can buy them now, but good for us- my 98 v70se cost a whole $625.00 but I had to drive it home 30km with the brakes only being a theory

scot850
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Post by scot850 »

It is a shame how cheap they are becoming, but it is all relative as they always have hidden problems that can cost more to repair than the car is worth, or a multitude of small issues that nickel and dime you to death.

I have already identified close to $2000 CDN in parts needed to bring the car to stage 0 and mechanically sound!

Neil.
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - New project and test bed - Sold

scot850
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Post by scot850 »

Very slow progress due to the cold temperatures (at -30C with wind-chill today and tomorrow) and the adoption of a high energy puppy that is 4 months old.

Only got as far as identifying what I believe is needed and have got all the parts ordered with the exception of the rear calipers. I'll get those via a friend with Worldpac access locally. I will remove the calipers first so I can drop them off when collecting the new ones.

I removed the driver's door panel to clean it and re-glued the 2 parts back together. Went fairly well but not entirely happy with the top portion as the material managed to get out of the position and one clamp slipped off the cardboard protector (to try to prevent indentation on the vinyl as the 'pros' did on my V70R driver's door. Worked out well otherwise. Now have to glue back on the 3 separate plastic mounts, but unfortunately one at the front is missing. Looks like a PnP trip in the near future when the temp get above -10C! Anyone know if the front plastic mount on a 98 is the same as a 99 or 00 in my case? It is the uppermost mount which is about 3-4 inches wide and shaped like a square 'U' with a notch for the plastic pin?
If anyone has a front door panel kicking about and could post a picture of the offending item it would be much appreciated so I can compare with the passenger side one if it is there.

Plan to fix the interior front door panels (the bio-degradable glue issue) and the tailgate inner panel, along with the RHF door lock mechanism. Hopefully a good used one will be here in a couple of days. Interior then needs a good steam clean and some dash lights repaired/replaced. Good job I have to pull the center console anyway to replace the parking brake cables so I can tackle the failed bulb for the shifter lever position.

Got a really good deal on parts prices from FCP. Had to wait a couple of extra days as they did not have the parts system. Comes back to the 'Ba$$tards' year again. Although I am replacing the rear calipers with Cardone re-man'd units (so far only ever had one bad one), the quality of the bleed screws on re-man'd units are usually crap. Due to that I fit OE bleed screws for peace of mind. Also rear engine mount is a weird part number and FCP did not carry that one or an aftermarket alternative. They now list the OE part. Again due to delay they gave me an excellent price and with the VIP member status now (very fortunate to get this!) this gave a saving of over $50 CDN from the dealer VIP price!

Only annoyance with the purchase is that when checking it over, one of the rear snow tires looks like either it has been left flat, or has hit a pot hole (or both) as there is some damage to the sidewall and cracking there too. As the tires are old I will need to replace both. I have found a used set of Michelin x-i2's that have only been used for one season and have about 85% tread left. Difficulty getting communication with seller may mean I'll just pay for 2 matching tires for the recent fronts even though that is more expensive option.

Also got the summer tires/rims dropped off as they were in storage. Un-known brand of tires and one rim has taken a bit of a ding and the tire looks like it was run with bad alignment with little tread left on outer edge. Bummer! I can worry about that when weather improves (around July here!! LoL).

PnP has a 50% off sale, but unfortunately, there are only 98's in for parting out, no 99-00's. Oh well.

Neil.
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - New project and test bed - Sold

scot850
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Post by scot850 »

Had a little time today to pull the RHF door panel. This is where I hate working on cars previously been tinkered with. The same bracket is missing from the front of the panel, the door pull lock button rod it totally bent and the button broken, the marker light has broken tabs and the plastic cover for the lock assembly is missing. Also the cover for the mirror mount (the triangular plastic piece) also is broken.

Both door have aftermarket window switches which fit really badly and look nasty. I know I have a good LHF master switch and I was sure I also had a passenger side one but it is in a 'safe' place. Probably with the front door mounting panels I salvage at one point!!).

So it looks like a trip to PnP this weekend is definitely on the cards!

The owner of the Michelin tires has been in touch so hopefully I can pick those up tomorrow. At $150 US for the 4 tires if they last a season or 2 that is fine.

Also checked all the dash lights and as far as I can see, the STC button has no illumination, the RHS of the LCD is not lit, and the trans shifter position bulb is out. That is pretty good. I'll take the opportunity with the dash out to replace all the bulbs while in there.

Neil.
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - New project and test bed - Sold

scot850
Posts: 6541
Joined: Mon Apr 05, 2010 2:46 pm
Year and Model: 2000 V70 R
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Post by scot850 »

I constantly question why on earth do I keep working on P80's, or Volvos for that matter? I always think after all these years I can't possibly find another stupid piece of design from the Volvo engineers, but every time I think I've seen it all, I find another!

I started to work on replacing the rear parking brake cable on the LHR. I've done this many time on AWD and I thought they were stupidly designed (and they are) but the FWD are equally stupid if not more so. I read the Haynes manual (please stop laughing) and the piece that says to remove the cable from the back plate/hub requires no more than wiggling the cable and it will come out. What they don't say that because you have big hands and we have put this stupid plastic deflector plate it makes it impossible to get a hand onto it without first removing the deflector plate (requires drilling out the pop-rivet someone has installed to hold it in place), and still impossible to get to. Soaked the cable with Deep Creep, tried wiggling it with a pair of grips and only managed to snap the plastic end off the cable where it goes into the hub. Following some strong engineering language and a long screw driver the remains were removed.

So cable removed and plan to start re-installing the new cable when I find the rear LH door marker light is broken off. Easy, replace with one from the stash. Nope, just falls out as well. What the heck? Remove the door panel to find all 7 mounts are broken off, and one is the locking plate for the marker light. So now I have both of the rear door panels off for re-gluing also. It never ends!! Still have to find beige rear RH panels around the rear window in the trunk area as PO has managed to break them both at the back preventing the load cover from being able to lock in. The PnP gorillas had broken the only beige wagon panels off to access the door gas struts. So those will have to wait until a suitable donor appears.

Q) I have found these before, but not sure what their purpose is. On the rear doors at least, there is a white plastic mount that is a little like a 'T' shape and it glues to the underside of the inner door panel by the hole for the rod with the door opening pull button? What purpose does it serve? Is it a support or distance piece? Needless to say one is missing and I know I have thrown several out in the past not having a clue where they came from. Is that what it does?

Well progress is one step forward and 2 back as usual. Might have the car running by Christmas at this rate!!! Oh, well.

Rant over (for now!!).

Neil.
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - New project and test bed - Sold

scot850
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Post by scot850 »

Long time since an update on the (very) slow progress. The new high energy puppy has been the priority and she is coming along nicely, so I have been able to spend a few more hours on the progress.

It has been disappointing (again, unfortunately) that much of my time has been rectifying stuff I have never had to do before due to careless ownership. In fairness you have to expect some issues with a 165,000 mile car that has been owned by a family with kids but in this case I believe they may be teenagers.

I had to remove and glue all 4 of the 2 piece door panels. All of them had fallen apart thanks to Volvo's use of bio-degradable glue for assembling them. Hardest part was finding the missing mounting parts, including the small plastic 'T' piece that is hidden up near the pull knobs on the doors on the underside of the inner panels. Never knew what these parts were for as I regularly have found them on the floor after removing P80 door panels and had no idea their purpose or where they went. Thankfully blockpartie educated me and they are now where they should be. The locate at the rear end of the panel into a slot in the upper edge of the metal door frame near the pull button to prevent damage occurring to the pull button shafts by being bent when downward pressure is put on the. Again still learning on these cars!

Also repaired the tailgate mounts with the Pro-parts kit from FCP. If I were to do this again I'd use some epoxy to glue the metal reinforcements pieces in place for extra strength as the plastic is fairly flimsy.

I ended up having to replace 3/4 of the door marker lights as they had had their location tabs broken off due to the panels separating and causing extra stress on them.

I have installed one of the Pro-Parts parking brake cables on the LH rear. Again, un-necessarily complicated job but relatively straight forward once you know how. Not now sure that AWD version is that much more difficult! One side done, but 2nd side is on hold as I found the 'J' pipe at the carbon filter above the rear axle to the rollover valve mounted to the side of it on the RH side is rotten. The breather pipe from the rollover pipe to the filler cap is also rotten and split. These can only be accessed easily with the fuel filter out of the way. Needless to say the filter looks like it may be the original!. Never seen one so rusty. The bracket is a flimsy piece of heavily rusted steel with a blot and a nut to a stud. There is little to access in a way of leverage to undo the nut on one side and the bolt on the other. Took me close to an hour (even having cleaned and soaked them in Deep Creep days earlier) to undo the 2 mounting points without breaking them. I'll not replace the mounting with a new one, but will have to order it.

That will delay the RH parking brake reassembly but it is all cleaned and ready to put back together.

What took way longer than I have ever had before was to clean out under the rear seats which is something I always do with a 'new' car. Most owners never clean under there it would appear! This one is probably the worst as someone had spilt coke down the back of the seat so it was all over under the seat, the sound deadening material and in the rear floor area under your feet. Took ages to clean this out and get rid of the sticky residue. It had also coated the rear seat belt latch assemblies, and the easiest way to clean these was to remove them, dis-assemble and re-install. During this process found the center latch casing was cracked which was concerning. Fortunately I had a spare in the 'stash'!

Also found the car has the built in booster seat in the rear arm rest, but again this has been damaged by someone ripping the pull tab out of it. Thanks to Erik, this has now been removed and the cover removed for repair. Cleaning the interior is taking way longer than the actual repairs. I will eventually have to pull the 2 front seats to steam the spilt coffee that has been left in the carpet either side of the center console. Gross!

While under the car I found the rear muffler mount was broken off. Rust I am thinking may have been the culprit, and it looked like someone had done a half-assed job of trying to pigeon weld it back on. All they had achieved was leaving a very hard residue to grind off. Again good old FCP has a repair mounting kit from OEM for this. It is a ring bracket that mounts in place of the original welded item. As the original bracket that the rubber mounts go to that bolts to the underside of the LH chassis rail was terminally corrodes I am replacing that with an OE new part coated with POR-15 first. Hopefully that will all go back together tomorrow.

I had planned to remove the rear anti-sway bar and tow bar for powder coating, but having found you have to disturb the mounting bolts for the LH rear suspension alignment, I have de-rusted the bar in-situ and again it is getting 2 coats of POR-15.

Again, while under the rear I found evidence of surface rust starting on both rear chassis rails at the rearmost ends near the bumper mounts and all the way to the rear edge of the wheel arches. The car for some reason only has front mud-flaps so the gravel on the roads here in winter had ground all the paint and coating off behind and in front of the underside of the car by the rear wheels. This has all been ground back to bare metal, rust treatment used, 2 coats of primer, 2 coats of top coat (with built in clear coat) followed by 2 coats of anti-chip rubber coating. I did this on my 'R' when it was in bits, but n that case I used the body coloured paint over the anti-chip, but in this case the car has a lot of black protection badly splashed around under it so I have reversed the 2 last coats. Now looks great under there!! Actually better than new as there was only evidence of primer and a splash of top coat in those areas. Amazing it has lasted so well over the years!

Last things to do at the rear is to replace the protection plate to the rear of the fuel tank. This has taken some abuse and it totally rotten. OE part was fairly cheap so I'll put that in. Require one Torx screw to be removed and the tank supported while the 2 mounting straps are loosened so the plate can be slipped under the straps. Then the last job (hopefully for now) is to replace the rear shocks and springs. I have soaked the mounts in preparation for removal.

Maybe with a huge bit of luck the car may be back on 4 wheel by the end of the next weekend. Only long enough to turn it around to start on the front and the maintenance and repair work there! With a huge following wind maybe another month or so to completing!

Oh, the 'R' is now sulking (yet AGAIN!!). It has developed a misfire, so the project repairs may have to go on hold until I can figure that out.

In between times I have found a good set of 16" Perfo alloys (5 off) with one having a small bend in it. I have also found a set of 4 almost new Continental 16" all-season ZR rated tires for the rims for $180 CDN (about $135 US). I only discovered after buying the car, the 15" rims with the summer tires were fitted with some un-heard off Chinese tires and although 2 are good 2 have been run on bad alignment and are beyond redemption! I'll remove the 2 'good' tires and replace them with a good set of winter Michelin's I happen to have. The car came with a set of 15" steels with 185/65/15 snow tires, but again one tire had been damaged and run flat so on close inspection it had splits appearing in the side walls. Fortunately Canadian Tire here had 2 new matching tires and fitted them on sale for $230 CDN (about $170 US). So with the set of winters that came with the now departed 850 that went to California I now have 3 sets of 15" tires and rims. The alloys have a bit of edge scraping, but are straight. So if anyone needs a set of winter rims and tires let me know!

Well that is the update for now! I'll try to find time to take and add pictures later!

Neil.
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - New project and test bed - Sold

scot850
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Joined: Mon Apr 05, 2010 2:46 pm
Year and Model: 2000 V70 R
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Post by scot850 »

I've made some time to add some pictures of the (slow) progress. As I've said before, I always find it amazing how some vehicle owners manage to damage/break stuff that I'm not even sure how you can do so to!

First couple of pictures are of what is called a protection plate for the rear of this V70 wagons fuel tank. As this is at the rear, how on earth do you hit this to bend it the way it has been?!:
What fuel protection plate should look like
What fuel protection plate should look like
What the original plate looks like (1)
What the original plate looks like (1)
What the original plate looks like (2)
What the original plate looks like (2)
The edge closest to you in the picture should be almost dead straight!!

What should have been a 15-20 minute job took over an hour as the one mounting screw in the top right of the 1st picture had been almost completely torn out of the fuel tank by the plate being hit. Had to clean and re-install using JB weld epoxy.

Then the 2 tank straps had to be carefully re-shaped so they actually were touching the fuel tank as the were bent on the rear lower edges.

I'll add to this update later.

Neil.
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - New project and test bed - Sold

scot850
Posts: 6541
Joined: Mon Apr 05, 2010 2:46 pm
Year and Model: 2000 V70 R
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Post by scot850 »

Sorry, ran out of time earlier when adding photos of progress!

One of the few mechanical jobs I have been able to get to so far is tackling the rear brakes, and in particular the parking brakes and cables.

The LH rear parking brake was not working, and not knowing what the issue was I ordered 2 replacement Pro-parts cables as part of a huge parts order to FCP.

On stripping the brakes, I found the brake pads were stuck in place which probably explains the strange braking the car had. The rotor was in good shape, as were the Volvo pads on the LH side. I had also bought replacement Textar parking brake shoes. I have had good performance from these in the past and they are fairly cheap. For another $9 or so, I also got a replacement hardware kit for the parking brakes from TRW.

Removing the rotor I found the reason the parking brake was not working was the smaller spring retainer at the top of the shoes was missing which meant the shoes were not able to be adjusted correctly. Removing everything, I found the spring behind the wheel bearing. The original cable was very rusty at the point where there is a retaining screw just forward of the rear tires. Pulling the cable was a pain as there is very little room to grasp the cable to pull it out at the hub. I drilled out the pop rivet holding the plastic protection plate from the rear of the dust shield to give more room. Also it would make cleaning and painting the dust shield a lot easier. The cable fought me and eventually the end at the hub broke off, but learning from this when tackling the other side I sprayed plenty of Deep Creep on both the outside and inside of the hub and worked it and the RH one came out intact.

I cleaned the back/dust shields with a rotary wire brush and then 2 hammers to chip the rust pieces off. The back plates were then stabilised with rust preventer and left for 24 hours, before cleaning it off with water and a sponge and allowed to dry before spraying with caliper cleaner and then coating with Dupli-color gloss black caliper paint. When dry the parking brake parts were cleaned and re-assembled with original parts and supplemented with new if required. With the rotor cleaning and de-rusted, it was re-fitted as was the caliper and it was also painted.

Below is a picture of the LH side completed:
LHR brakes completed
LHR brakes completed
RH side has all been repaired and painted ready for re-assembly but I am holding off fitting the new parking brake cable as it gives better access to the fuel filter and the 2 pipes that need to be replaced to the roll-over valve.
RHR brakes waiting re-assembly
RHR brakes waiting re-assembly
While working on the LHR brakes I found gravel wear had remove the paint and protection to the panel at the front of the wheel arch. This was cleaned treated and painted with anti-chip paint:
LHR wheel arch paint repair
LHR wheel arch paint repair
While under the rear I found the starting of surface rust on the 2 rear rails near the bumper mounts. These were cleaned back to bare metal, 2 coats of primer and color coat with clear, followed by 2 coats of anti-chip. This now has the rear of the under-floor area in better condition than new as there was only primer and a splash of top coat.
Under floor paint repairs and muffler repairs TBC
Under floor paint repairs and muffler repairs TBC
The wire is to hold the muffler in position until I can find a solution to the non-fitting repair mounting bracket for the rear of the muffler system. The repair part bought from FCP under the OEM brand has an I/D minimum of 2.25" and the muffler has an O/D of only 2". I have now ordered on OE Volvo item to see if it fits. I suspect it will be the same, and if so I will take the car t a muffler shop nearby to weld it in place. Volvo part shows same part # for both NA and turbo mufflers. I suspect the repair part may be for a turbo muffler system.
Rear under floor repairs (1)
Rear under floor repairs (1)
RH rear floor paint repairs
RH rear floor paint repairs
RH rear floor repairs (2)
RH rear floor repairs (2)
The RHR brakes are now on hold until I can repair the fuel pump bracket and the 2 rubber hoses above it to/from the roll-over valve
Rusty Fuel filter and bracket
Rusty Fuel filter and bracket
It took an hour to undo the 2 mounts for the fuel filter bracket as it is so badly rusted it is paper thin. I tried to order a new one but they are on back order. Typical!!
Cracked vent pipe from roll-over valve
Cracked vent pipe from roll-over valve
You can see the rotted hose below the roll-over valve. I will also replace the 'J' hose from the end of the roll-over valve to the carbon filter as these can only be accessed with the fuel filter removed. I may have to re-use the original fuel filer mount until a new one is available.
Really rusty bracket for fuel filter
Really rusty bracket for fuel filter
Rear anti-sway bar painted
Rear anti-sway bar painted
Left the rear anti-sway bar in place as didn't want to have to affect the rear wheel alignment which is what you have to do to remove it. I cleaned it thoroughly and painted it with 2 coats of POR-15 gloss.

Still hoping to get close to finishing the rear of the car and have it back on the rear wheels by the end of the weekend. Just have to fit the rear shocks and springs!!
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - New project and test bed - Sold

scot850
Posts: 6541
Joined: Mon Apr 05, 2010 2:46 pm
Year and Model: 2000 V70 R
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
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Post by scot850 »

After the easy success of yesterday and the planned 20 minute job 'only' taking 1.5 hours due to extra damage to the fuel tank mounting straps and the torn mount on the fuel tank for the plate, I decided to tackle another 'simple' job. Most jobs for an old fat guy are a challenge under these cars and having taken an hour a couple of days ago to loosen the mounting bolt and nut for the fuel filter bracket (naturally on back order with no ship date forecast!), I decided to bite the bullet and remove the filter and bracket and see if the bracket can be salvaged for now and I can fit the new bracket when it arrives.

Naturally the fuel filter pipes were very reluctant to come off as probably on the original filter (see condition of the filter in last post!) I managed to spill only a small amount of gas on myself. Now to the straight forward part of replacing the 2 hoses at the roll-over valve. Naturally the position of the oetiker clamps made removal impossible while in place. Nothing else for it but remove the whole carbon filter assembly and repair off the car and re-install. All went well until trying to remove the smaller vacuum pipe on the rear of the carbon filter. The larger one I expected to be difficult as crap gets in the mechanism and it can be a challenge. But no! It came off fairly easily. Now to the smaller pipe. No way in $##@++@ hell would it release, no matter what I tried. Ended up having to leave it on and drop the carbon filter with it still attached and hope it doesn't break.

After more engineering words of encouragement I managed to get the rear 'J' pipe clamp off the filter body. and then remove the whole roll over valve for cleaning and it made it easier to get the 2 other hoses off. Cleaned it and re-attached the 2 hoses(both original hoses were split), and went to re-fit it to the carbon filter to find the Oetiker clamp wouldn't fit. I thought I had been smart as when I had to fit the 'J' hose on the 2000 'R' the Oetiker clamp at the carbon filter was way too big, and ended up fitting the same size at the other end at the roll-over valve. This time it is the reverse and the one at the carbon filter would not fit as it was too small. Bugger! No problem I must have the correct one somewhere from that debacle. Not to be found anywhere, and then I recalled using all the spares I had on the PCV system on the last project the 850 PCV system. So I'll have to get the correct one tomorrow when hopefully the muffler mounting repair kit may be in at the dealer.

This as actually taught me the to stop cursing the AWD P80's (some of the time) as this job is more accessible especially on the later versions. It is like the rear flexible brake hoses (all 3 of them). Totally in-accessible on the FWD cars and difficult but accessible on the AWD cars.

The other 'good' news we have in western Canada is Volvo have a brand new DC in Seattle. Naturally they have screwed up big time as they haven't figured out how to ship across the border with shipment taking a week or more to get here. L.A. DC we used to get parts overnight if in stock and ordered by noon. I have a suspicion that they will not stock parts for the older cars so we will have to wait a lot longer for parts to be shipped from L.A. to Seattle then to Canada. So far this has proved the case with me waiting for parts ordered 3 days ago. Oh, joy................!

Neil.
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - New project and test bed - Sold

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