New project: 2000 V70 SE. Possible trans issues

summakor · Post by **summakor** » 08 Jun 2016, 21:33

Hi everyone!

I'm new to Volvos and I've already read a couple of useful threads on here. Thanks! This is just a little intro to my new project car. I came across an obscenely (to me) cheap auction for a 2000 V70 2.4L FWD, bid a ridiculously low amount and unexpectedly won. Here it is: https://www.govdeals.com/index.cfm?fa=M ... cctid=4408

What could go wrong? It's either a working daily driver, a mediocre LeMons car or a heap of parts and waste of time. Well I got it home and checked it out... it drives! But it's a mess. So far I've replaced: the battery (someone installed one on its side...!!), the plastic bit of the transmission linkage (was soaked in acid), wiper blades, one tire, front stabilizer links (broken off), front brake rotors, rear brake rotors and parking brake shoes, about a gallon of transmission fluid, the transmission torque mount and the top engine mount. The broken stabilizer links tore the CV boots so I'm expecting two new CV axles this weekend, as well as two control arms (the ball joints are bad). Those will be firsts for me. There's also some missing exhaust brackets and other details on the inside, but the transmission...

Let's talk about the transmission.... it's not perfect, and a potential car-scrapper. This is the 2.4L NA Auto with the AW55-50. It shifts fine when cold, the car will do 0-60 in 9-10 seconds or whatever. As it gets hot, it starts to flare between 3-4 and 4-5, shift slow and engage very harshly and eventually even shifting between PRND at a standstill is harsh. Some idiot at JiffyLube told me it has a 'sealed transmission,' another two shops refused to flush it for fear of worsening it (190,000mi) and a transmission shop told me it needs a new transmission ("it's an internal problem" was their expert diagnosis - and I paid for that!). I eventually found the dipstick and it was overfilled by about a quart and the fluid pretty dark. After some reading online, I decided to gamble a little and try a drain/fill with Toyota T-IV ATF fluid and see if the warm shifting improves (also have a B4 servo cover on hand now). About 4 quarts came out and 2.5 went in. Right now the car is still up on stands and seems to shift fine P-R-N-D-4-3-L-3-4-D-N-R but makes a hell of a clatter trying to shift back into Park (yes my foot is on the brake). If the Park pawl is clattering then something's moving when the wheels are stopped? I guess I'll lower the car and check the fluid level on flat ground and maybe everything will be fine...

Hope to be reading more of these forum threads in the coming weeks. I'd appreciate any advice on this car / transmission tho.

Post by **scot850** » 08 Jun 2016, 23:23

I will ask, but I don't have the info to hand, is that the correct oil for that trans? I have a 2000 'R' with the 5 speed auto and it uses 3309 trans oil? I'm not a trans expert, but if my copy of Vida parts is correct that car uses the same trans oil as mine.

Neil.

Post by **850 LPT** » 09 Jun 2016, 06:20

Toyota T-IV is the same as 3309, so it is correct for the 5-speed auto.

Herb Goltz · Post by **Herb Goltz** » 09 Jun 2016, 09:21

I think I would flush with the 3309 fluid, install the B4 servo cover, then have a dealer update the software and reset the adaptations. Otherwise you are looking at a rebuilt valve body (Erie VoVo has rebuilt trannies for about $1100 as well-- with a 1 year warranty, if memory serves).

Mine improved significantly with a dump and fill of Mobil 1 3309 and software update and adaptations-- my B4 servo cover is still sitting in the garage. Getting the fluid levels right was tricky.

PS78 · Post by **PS78** » 10 Jun 2016, 11:41

Wanted to ask something. You mentioned your car's trans fluid was dark and overfilled. What was the consistency of the fluid? Was it just black and burnt or was it creamy or frothy? Overfilled might mean coolant is getting in your transmission from the radiator. Just wanted to mention that. Dumping and changing the fluid was a good move, just keep an eye on the level to make sure it doesn't rise . If the car was beaten on like it sounds, god knows what was in the trans, might have never been changed or had the wrong atf. Hopefully things improve with shifting but if not like the member before me mentioned the valve body and at 190 k the internals of the trans have been paying the price for awhile so economically for $1100 the rebuilt trans would be a better bet for you if you are going to keep your car awhile. Good luck with your restoration.

summakor · Post by **summakor** » 10 Jun 2016, 20:24

The fluid was just black, not frothy. But I'll check the level and keep that possibility in mind (external trans coolers are not that expensive it seems). I ended up adding another quart or quart and a half when warm to get the level right. (is the level that critical?) Between the fluid and new mounts (top engine, trans torque mount) now it feels great when it's cold or even warmed up. But half an hour of stop-and-go traffic and it starts to shift slow, flare and engage harshly again.

$1100 sounds pretty rich for a car I got for $200, and indeed it was beat on by probably more than one person who didn't know or care much about cars. I may just keep it as (another?) spare car or sell it as-is for however long the transmission lasts. It's not looking like a good 24 hours of lemons candidate.

The loud clattering shifting into Park was because, with the wheels and lug bolts off, the hubs were spinning inside the new rotors...

PS78 · Post by **PS78** » 11 Jun 2016, 08:31

The fluid level is important because running low or overfilling can trigger symptoms like slipping, flares,etc. Right now it appears your valve body is in really rough shape, and the trans is probably not much better. You could replace the valve body with a reman unit, rebuild yours (can be done but is a bit of work) find a car parting out or a salvage yard for another unit. The thing is it would really suck to go through that expense and labor to replace the valve body and then the internals of the trans gets worse.Your best bet is going to be to find another trans. You might get lucky and find someone parting out off of Craig's list or somewhere that already had the work done. I picked up a 2000 with a blown head and a trans that was replaced witha remanufactred unit a year prior for 300 bucks from a woman that just wanted rid of it after the engine failed.

Post by **E Showell** » 12 Jun 2016, 04:54

There is an outfit, I believe VBX, which does exchange rebuilt valve bodies for about $600 if memory serves.

Post by **sanfelice** » 12 Jun 2016, 11:25

MY advice: use this as the parts car.

Buy a second similar car that has a flaw which would be repaired by using a part from this car that is in good nic, perhaps like a body panel or a door that has been damaged. Of course, a body panel replacement would require a car of the same color, but you get the idea.

summakor · Post by **summakor** » 09 Oct 2016, 22:16

As an update; took a while but the "$200" wagon is finally inspected and road-legal. After the brake rotors, parking brake pads and sway bar endlinks, I did replace both CV axles, both control arms, an inner tie rod and boot, the exhaust brackets, tailpipe, tag lights and some other details to pass inspection (Maryland inspections are thorough). So now it's a $1000 wagon. :\ I have the new B4 servo but haven't gotten around to installing it, so the transmission is about the same: slow and harsh when hot. Fortunately the weather has cooled off a bit.

This is my transmission linkage; looks legit, right?

: IMG_20160513_215434024.jpg (57.1 KiB) Viewed 1578 times

In other news now my steering wheel shakes from side to side even at low speeds 10-30mph. I just had it aligned, but much of the front-end is newly installed. What could cause low-speed steering wheel wobble? Feels like a front wheel is wobbling. Maybe I'll re-torque all the lug nuts...