850 Rear Hose Replacement?

PeteB · Post by **PeteB** » 06 Jul 2017, 09:14

I am planning to change these hoses since I suspect that they are partially blocked.
Found this writeup:
http://www.volvohowto.com/how-to-replac ... 70-or-c70/

And this thread where there are comments about how difficult it is to do:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=71147&hilit=rear+br ... eplacement

Any tips are appreciated, I might just put it off until I get all the other work done.

I've read that depending on the year and chassis some need 1, 2 or 3 hoses - the
3 number was from ebay so not sure if it is reliable.
Here is a diagram and a source for OEM parts at decent prices, it shows 2 hoses
for our 1996 wagon:
http://volvopartslisle.com/assembly/247 ... rake-Lines

PeteB · Post by **PeteB** » 21 Jul 2017, 07:25

The Volvo rear hoses were quite expensive at FCP but I found FTE parts on ebay much cheaper.

When I bled the rears the pedal would not go all the way down - I was doing this alone
so no one was watching the hose on the bleeder but there was a drip when I went back
to close it. Then later, I bled the fronts and the pedal did go all the way down, this seems
to confirm that the rear is nearly fully blocked and I was just compressing the system when
the pedal didn't go down all the way.
The new rear hoses are certainly needed at this point.

Post by **scot850** » 21 Jul 2017, 07:43

It is a swine of a job if you do not have access to a hoist. I did this on our 1997 850 NA last year before sending it off to my niece in California. Took me about 5 hours of cursing and swearing as it is hard to access either of the hoses. It is as usual like the designers thought to find the 2 most in-accessible places to fit them and make it nearly impossible to get any wrench into them. I can only stress how important it is to have a good 11mm brake pipe wrench (can never remember the North American name for them). I paid up for a Snap on wrench and it was money well spent (I think it was $40 CDN direct from Snap on Canada).

It is possibly easier to remove the whole pipe from the junction block mounted on the RHS of the axle to the RH rear caliper to disassemble and re-assemble. The hardest part is to get the location screw out of the block near the flexi hose on the top of the axle and then get it back in as you can hardly see anything and wrench access is limited. I swore (many times) if I had to do it again I would take it to a repair shop and gladly pay the money (about 2 hours worth).

On the 850 there were only 2 pipes which I recall were the same. 1 under the LHS rear just forward of the rear wheel, and then the 2nd one on top of the rear axle about 2/3rds of the way to the RHS.

My 2000 V70 has 3 pipes as they split the system into 2 lines at the rear, so there are 2 forward of the LH rear wheel and 1 on the axle. Same basic idea but the LHS is just made harder by the 2 pipes to get access.

This is one of the jobs where AWD is actually easier to work on!

Good luck!

Neil.

PeteB · Post by **PeteB** » 21 Jul 2017, 12:22

Thanks very much Neil, did you consider dropping any of the suspension arms
for better access?
I just had both hard pipe connections at the calipers off so they are not frozen,
wondering if I can remove the entire assembly do the work and then put it back
in place?

I'm going to guess that it is best to have the wheels hanging down extended to
provide more room to work on the hoses, would that be right? I currently have
the car up on car ramps with the suspension compressed a bit.
I have to take the wheel off to do the work so seems I'll find out then.

PeteB · Post by **PeteB** » 24 Jul 2017, 11:47

I seem to remember that the shocks limit the bottom spring travel.
I could disconnect the bottoms so that the springs extend more for
better access. Going to give it a try if needed.

Post by **erikv11** » 24 Jul 2017, 14:43

Yes, you definitely want full suspension drop (no ramps) and if you want to unhook the shocks you will get a little more. I've replaced these on a FWD, they are not fun but I don't think they are as bad as Neil makes them sound. Although if the rust is like the incredible shipwreck quality you showed on those brake calipers, all bets are off.

I've also replaced them after removing the whole rear end from the car (both trailing arms), if you need to do the TA bushings then that is absolutely the easiest way to go for the brake lines. Makes it trivial.

Post by **scot850** » 24 Jul 2017, 15:34

I also have the dis-advantage of being fat and old which doesn't help. Oh, I'd say it is as hard as I said to do. Particularly the one on top of the rear axle. The hardest part of that was getting access to see what you are doing, especially when trying to remove and then re-fit the torx headed bolt that holds the block that the flexi-hose attaches too. I fought that for ages as I just couldn't get the access to reach or see what I was doing. Dropping the suspension may give slightly better access. However, doing this job on a hoist would be way easier. Removing as much of the system across the back of the car will make it a little easier especially if well rusted.

Good luck,

Neil.

Post by **erikv11** » 24 Jul 2017, 19:13

scot850 wrote: ↑24 Jul 2017, 15:34 ... However, doing this job on a hoist would be way easier. ...

On that point, I totally concur!

I don't mean to make it sound like a cake walk, it was not for me. But i got 'em done.

PeteB · Post by **PeteB** » 24 Jul 2017, 19:29

I just put all four corners up on car ramps to do the muffler.
It was the clamp behind the CAT one nut was completely rusted away, fixed
that today. And I could at least see the second hose from under the passenger
side rear seat. Hit it with PB Blaster, and Kroil, hope it frees up.

I was messaged by the person who says they did it by removing the whole thing
which is what I plan to do if it all goes well.
Thanks for all the tips.

Post by **erikv11** » 25 Jul 2017, 07:43

Have you looked at the rear bumper mounts on this car, yet? I am wondering how epically bad they are (rusted).