1999 V70T5M56 oil pan drop , o-rings

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Dropped the pan this morning to do o-rings and seals on the oil delivery system
I still haven’t buttoned up the PS lines from the steering rack job so labor is saved!

Car on Ramps, drained oil.
Impact on deep 10mm nicely removes the ( N= ?) M6 flange bolts on the pan, to be tabulated.

Challenge here will be to find the 40F (5C) weather to get the Permatex 518 to setup

Cross reference excellent DIY THREAD

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forum ... =1&t=31236

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Three different flange bolts vertical, parts 14, 15, 41

14 985324 M7x 100 near transmission N= 4

15. 985133 M7x 22 small ones around edge N= 11 to rear (right engine) , N=11 on front (left engine)

41 part 985322 M7x 40 N=3

1 odd ball m6 horizontal on back tight holding fuel line clamp, I think is RN motor feature. Volvo was so proud of it they left it off the procedure

Two bolts holding pan to transmission housing
M10 x 40 with a 14mm hex head

[foggydogg]

Always curios the measures are shown on some fasteners, and absent on others. I know some are shouldered, flanged, &c. but it would ease confusion in situations like this instant case with multiple fasteners used in one assembly. An old friend - and excellent Professional Wrench - once mixed up the water pump bolts on his '53 331 Chrysler Hemi. The ever-so-slightly longer bolt in the wrong hole went through the number 1 cylinder wall. Had to send the block out to Summer Camp for a sleeve, and he shakes his head about it to this day. It was 50 years ago.

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I haven’t found documentation on the two bolts holding transmission to oil pan in either ‘ engine’ ot ‘ transmission ‘ sections so I will document here.

It’s hugely useful for DIY to have these details down in simple text.

My Alldata ( pulled from VIDA) is skimpy on these…this is all you get plus ‘ remove oil pan fasteners’

[scot850]

Are you doing the oil pump seals as well?

Neil.

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Notes on removing oil pan

Ps lines get moved out of the way
Oil drained
Four Torx release biscuit oil cooler, a bit of oil left over
Oil filter and can removed
Front lower motor mount removed
Two M10 trans to pan on left side of car
The rear right m6 is very tough access. I needed a low profile 10mm to get it.
I used a engine bar to raise the engine enough to access the m6 and ease the pan past the flange in the subframe. The distance between the two removed front engine mount screws is perfect


Found sucked in oring in oil pump and root cause, blocked oil pickup

[JimBee]

Great progress so far. Not sure what the temp specs are for the Permatex, but hopefully that's not an issue.

One suggestion, though it will take an hour longer: using a small ratchet, work a tap into ALL those pan flange holes in the block to clean out any sealant or thread lock. Special attention to the rear longest bolts by the trans interface. I bought the tap at a big box hardware store. I just took a bolt with me for proper sizing. Then using a small wire wheel on your drill, give the bolt threads a quick cleaning.

Those fine threads packed with whatever it is they use can stymie proper torquing, and a worst case forcing in the bolts without cleaning the threads could strip the threads in the block.

May a warm southerly breeze grace your workspace!

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I recall 40F is the recommended temp for permatex 518 setup but couldn’t find thst documented. I’ll make something work with a cardboard tent if I have to,

Cleaning and chasing all fasteners is part of the complete job, yes.

[foggydogg]

In the Wayback, an incandescent bulb in a clip-on reflector could generate enough radiant heat to help this situation. Brave souls used just such a rig in the bilge in lieu of proper winterisation.

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By the way, this Is self inflicted pain.

All the cleaning of the head with the multiple head cover installs, I was not careful with bits of paper towels falling into the head. These eventually made their way into the sump and plugged the intake