I'm about to perform a complete transmission flush. These are the steps that I'm going to follow:
1. Disconnect Negative and Positive terminals of the battery. Remove Air Cleaner Cover. Remove 2 screws for Fresh Air Hose in front plate. Remove Fresh Intake Hose.
Note 1: The left connector of the ECU is secured with a zip tie on the upper cover of the Air Cleaner Houing (ACL). Cut the zip tie.
Note 2: The right connector of the ECU is resting on a plastic bracket on the upper cover of the Air Cleaner Houing (ACL). The harness is wrapped with electrical tape. unwind the tape to release.
2. Remove nut in front left wing. Remove hoseclips for air bellows. Remove connectors to ECM. Remove connectors for the MAF Sensor. Remove Air Cleaner Housing.
3. Remove the Filler Plug (Torx 55). Lower a filler nozzle or hose with funnel into the filler hole.
4. Install the Air Cleaner Housing, MAF and ECU connectors, hoseclips for air bellows, Fresh Intake Hose and Air Cleaner cover.
5. Remove the splash guard (6 X 10 MM bolts).
6. Remove the Integrated Level Plug (Torx 40).
7. Remove the Draining Plug (17 MM Hex). Drain the transmission fluid.
8. Install the Draining Plug. Use a new gasket, lubricate it with ATF oil. Tighten to 35 Nm.
9. Install Integrated Level Plug, tighten to 8 Nm, reuse o ring, lubricate it with ATF oil.
Tightening torque Specs:
Draining Plug: 35Nm, Filler Plug: 35 Nm, Integrated Level Plug: 8 Nm
10. Remove the oil cooler's return line from the transmission.
11. Remove the oil cooler's return line from the oil cooler.
12. Install the return line on the oil cooler as shown.
13. Install hose on the return line with a hose clamp.
14. Fill with 4 l of oil. Use transmission fluid.
15. Apply the parking brake. Move the gear selector lever to position P. Start and run the engine at idle. Shift through all the positions between P and D on the gear selector. Stop for 2 seconds per position. Switch off when air bubbles are visible in the hose.
16. Fill with 2 liters of oil. Start the engine again and allow it to idle. Switch off when air bubbles are visible in the hose.
17. Fill with 2 liters of oil again. Start the engine and allow it to idle. Switch off when air bubbles are visible in the hose.
18. Install return hose to transmission and oil cooler.
19. Remove the integrated level plug.
20. Top up with oil until it starts to run out of the transmission.
21. Install the level plug, tighten to 8Nm.
22. Check the oil level. Connect Vida/Dice to monitor fluid temp.
Checking the oil level Connect the diagnostic equipment and read the transmission fluid temperature continuously.
23. Connect positive and negative terminals of the battery. Start the engine. Note! Leave the engine running during the entire check. Note! The following measure must be carried out quickly to avoid overheating the fluid. Run through all the positions between P and D on the gear selector. Stop at each position for at least 2 seconds. Perform this process twice
24. Allow the transmission fluid to heat up to 50° C. Note! The fluid will not heat up faster by stalling.
25. Place a lower drip shield on the floor under the vehicle. While the engine is running, remove the integrated level plug (TORX 40). Allow the excess fluid to run out.
26. When the fluid is between 50° C and 60° C, check that the transmission fluid has stopped running out and is only dropping from the level plug hole
27. Fit the integrated level plug (TORX 40). Use a new O-ring. Moisten the new O-ring with transmission fluid and tighten 8Nm.
28. Turn Engine off.
29. Repeat Step 1, 2 and 3 to re install the Filler Plug (Torx 55). Tighten to 35 Nm.
30. Install Splash Guard.
Additional References:
http://www.convertunits.com/from/newton ... oot+pounds
2008 Volvo XC90, 3.2 AWD, Transmission Flush
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skippyxc90
- Posts: 23
- Joined: 8 November 2014
- Year and Model: XC90 3.2 AWD 2008
- Location: United States
- Been thanked: 3 times
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skippyxc90
- Posts: 23
- Joined: 8 November 2014
- Year and Model: XC90 3.2 AWD 2008
- Location: United States
- Been thanked: 3 times
Additional References
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jonathanS70
- Posts: 8
- Joined: 10 February 2011
- Year and Model: 1999
- Location: 18707
I have a 2008 XC90 3.2 T6. When Since I tow a small trailer and the car has about 100K miles I wanted to make sure the trans fluid was good.. Given that this car does not have a dipstick and the cost to replace the Trans is a lot $$ I was slightly worried about f’ing it up but I am a true DYI’er so I thought I would give it a try. With the right tools it really was not hard; I did it all in less than two hours really taking my time. I didn’t locate all of my tools before I started so I was stopping and looking for tools, rags, and supplies. The fluid I used was Mobil ATF 3309 in the blue quart bottles; I got a case of 12 quarts from Amazon. It was JWS3309 Compliant and I checked in the owner’s manual that said “JWS3309”.. Because there was no way to measure the amount of the fluid in the car, I wanted to make sure that the amount that came out of the trans, went back in. This is why I wanted to collect as much as I could in one barrel. I did not account for volumetric change in the hot fluid coming out vs cold fluid going in.. Remember one small piece of dirt can destroy this transmission so be very clean and carful I used a new funnel.
What I did… Not sure if it’s up to Volvo spec, but like I said this is what “I” did… **Consult authorized Volvo technician before attempting..
1. I found a large plastic barrel like then ones you get filled with Pretzels. Then I filled it with a quart of water at a time marking the amount or quarts like a graduated cylinder, the barrel I had was 7.5 Quarts. I used this method so I was not guessing on how much was coming out, I did not want to worry about (summation of errors) each time fluid was removed if it was not exactly a quart, by the end I knew want came out was what I put back in.
2. I was at the junk yard for another car I own, so I cut off the upper trans line from a S70. I was able to use the junk yard line to connect into my radiator upper trans line without worrying about it falling out. I put a clear plastic tube from the cut off end of the junk yard trans line to the plastic barrel.
3. Run the car and get it warm, the Volvo spec says the trans oil must be at temp, 80C. Mine did not melt the barrel, maybe I did not get it warm enough?? Or the Plastic barrel I used could take 80C. Not sure..
4. I removed the plastic cover on the bottom of the engine; with a small Torx (TX40??) I forget what size removed the drain plug. About one quart came out. reinstall the drain plug, there was a small elastomeric oring on the drain plug so it could be resealed. I did not use a torque wrench; this is a small plug so it does not need to be supper tight.
5. Top side on the car remove the air box two electrical plugs and the MAF plug, be careful of the plastic clips, it is really easy to brake them off if you are not careful.. Next under the airbox to the left is the Torx 55 plug, this is not a T50, it is a T55, your standard Torx kit will most likely not have a T55, since you will need a T55 for the XC90 brake calipers it is something you should have on hand. I needed to use a socket joint because I could not get on the plug straight. Also I needed to tap the end of the socket extension to get the T55 to seat all the way. Once that was seated it took some torque to get that loose. This plug also had an oring seal so it could be resealed if the oring was not damaged.
6. Filled with the same amount that was removed, disconnected the trans upper hose via the green quick disconnect. I installed my junk yard hose with clear plastic hose to the pretzel homemade graduated cylinder. Ran the car until I saw bubbles In “Park”, it was about two quarts removed. Filled with two quarts, and did this over and over until the fluid ran bright red. I used all 12 quarts. I also would move the shifter from P to R-N-D for a few seconds each to make sure all of the fluid was circulated.
What I did… Not sure if it’s up to Volvo spec, but like I said this is what “I” did… **Consult authorized Volvo technician before attempting..
1. I found a large plastic barrel like then ones you get filled with Pretzels. Then I filled it with a quart of water at a time marking the amount or quarts like a graduated cylinder, the barrel I had was 7.5 Quarts. I used this method so I was not guessing on how much was coming out, I did not want to worry about (summation of errors) each time fluid was removed if it was not exactly a quart, by the end I knew want came out was what I put back in.
2. I was at the junk yard for another car I own, so I cut off the upper trans line from a S70. I was able to use the junk yard line to connect into my radiator upper trans line without worrying about it falling out. I put a clear plastic tube from the cut off end of the junk yard trans line to the plastic barrel.
3. Run the car and get it warm, the Volvo spec says the trans oil must be at temp, 80C. Mine did not melt the barrel, maybe I did not get it warm enough?? Or the Plastic barrel I used could take 80C. Not sure..
4. I removed the plastic cover on the bottom of the engine; with a small Torx (TX40??) I forget what size removed the drain plug. About one quart came out. reinstall the drain plug, there was a small elastomeric oring on the drain plug so it could be resealed. I did not use a torque wrench; this is a small plug so it does not need to be supper tight.
5. Top side on the car remove the air box two electrical plugs and the MAF plug, be careful of the plastic clips, it is really easy to brake them off if you are not careful.. Next under the airbox to the left is the Torx 55 plug, this is not a T50, it is a T55, your standard Torx kit will most likely not have a T55, since you will need a T55 for the XC90 brake calipers it is something you should have on hand. I needed to use a socket joint because I could not get on the plug straight. Also I needed to tap the end of the socket extension to get the T55 to seat all the way. Once that was seated it took some torque to get that loose. This plug also had an oring seal so it could be resealed if the oring was not damaged.
6. Filled with the same amount that was removed, disconnected the trans upper hose via the green quick disconnect. I installed my junk yard hose with clear plastic hose to the pretzel homemade graduated cylinder. Ran the car until I saw bubbles In “Park”, it was about two quarts removed. Filled with two quarts, and did this over and over until the fluid ran bright red. I used all 12 quarts. I also would move the shifter from P to R-N-D for a few seconds each to make sure all of the fluid was circulated.
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skippyxc90
- Posts: 23
- Joined: 8 November 2014
- Year and Model: XC90 3.2 AWD 2008
- Location: United States
- Been thanked: 3 times
Thank you so much for sharing your experience on flushing your transmission. Great write up! You used Mobil ATF 3309, how is the trans adapting to this new fluid? Did you reset the TCM Fluid Counter? Reset TCM Adaption?
I have been doing research and gathering all the tools needed for this project. Those pictures above are actual. I did a dry run how to remove the splash guard, Air cleaner Housing, ECU Connectors and Torx 55 plug. I bought VIDA DICE 2014A to walk me through. It is a must have to calibrate and or reset the TCM.
For the past 3 months, I have been buying stuff for this project
1. Vida Dice 2014A http://www.autonumen.com/goods-287-VOLV ... 2014A.html
2. Volvo OEM transmission fluid (20 liters, yes I prematurely bought this fluid 5 months ago without researching the forums), Snap Locks, O-rings, Gaskets . I also have a case of the Mobil ATF 3309 from Amazon. Right now, since I cant return the overly priced Volvo fluid, Im thinking of using the Mobil first, then flush it again 6 months later with the Volvo fluid. Yikesssssssss! Volvo stuff was expensive!!!!
http://www.volvopartswebstore.com/cart.aspx
https://www.amazon.com/Mobil-55221-Autom ... B00BLKXW9O
3. Oil Drain Pan
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-17942-Black ... B000JFHMVQ
4. 2 Funnel (1 for measuring dirty fluid and 1 for clean fluid)
https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-FloTool-1 ... oil+funnel
5. 17 mm Hex
https://www.amazon.com/Titan-15617-Drive ... B004W81LPY
Yes, I have all the torx bits including 40 and 55. I also bought some vinyl hose (3/8 ID) from Home Depot.
You mentioned that you salvaged an old trans cooler line from an S70, thats a good idea. However, I plan to cut my existing cooler line and install an inline filter. So, I will be able to utilize the upper radiator connector to flush out the fluid. I will drain the pan first. Disconnect connector from upper radiator then cut it. Install the inline filter then reconnect the connector upwards and insert a vinyl hose.
http://magnefinefilters.com/Magnefine-3 ... -R038M.htm
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =9&t=24805
Btw. There is a way to check the level of the fluid. You must have a diagnostic tool (Vida ) to monitor the oil temperature.
I have been doing research and gathering all the tools needed for this project. Those pictures above are actual. I did a dry run how to remove the splash guard, Air cleaner Housing, ECU Connectors and Torx 55 plug. I bought VIDA DICE 2014A to walk me through. It is a must have to calibrate and or reset the TCM.
For the past 3 months, I have been buying stuff for this project
1. Vida Dice 2014A http://www.autonumen.com/goods-287-VOLV ... 2014A.html
2. Volvo OEM transmission fluid (20 liters, yes I prematurely bought this fluid 5 months ago without researching the forums), Snap Locks, O-rings, Gaskets . I also have a case of the Mobil ATF 3309 from Amazon. Right now, since I cant return the overly priced Volvo fluid, Im thinking of using the Mobil first, then flush it again 6 months later with the Volvo fluid. Yikesssssssss! Volvo stuff was expensive!!!!
http://www.volvopartswebstore.com/cart.aspx
https://www.amazon.com/Mobil-55221-Autom ... B00BLKXW9O
3. Oil Drain Pan
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-17942-Black ... B000JFHMVQ
4. 2 Funnel (1 for measuring dirty fluid and 1 for clean fluid)
https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-FloTool-1 ... oil+funnel
5. 17 mm Hex
https://www.amazon.com/Titan-15617-Drive ... B004W81LPY
Yes, I have all the torx bits including 40 and 55. I also bought some vinyl hose (3/8 ID) from Home Depot.
You mentioned that you salvaged an old trans cooler line from an S70, thats a good idea. However, I plan to cut my existing cooler line and install an inline filter. So, I will be able to utilize the upper radiator connector to flush out the fluid. I will drain the pan first. Disconnect connector from upper radiator then cut it. Install the inline filter then reconnect the connector upwards and insert a vinyl hose.
http://magnefinefilters.com/Magnefine-3 ... -R038M.htm
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =9&t=24805
Btw. There is a way to check the level of the fluid. You must have a diagnostic tool (Vida ) to monitor the oil temperature.
I am glad I did change my transmission oil! I had 70K and the oil was dark brown. I would like to post a picture of transmission oil integrated plug. The small T40 screw has O-ring (not visible now) and the 17mm hex has a crush seal aluminum gasket. My suggestion- change both of them.
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T5AUS
- Posts: 153
- Joined: 17 February 2010
- Year and Model: 08 XC90V8 94 850T5
- Location: Brisbane Australia
I just need to inspect the current transmission oil level of my 2009 V8 XC90 so wondering if the filler plug is in the same area as on this 3.2 trans or is it a totally different trans set up
Thanks anyone
Thanks anyone
1994 850 T5
2001 V70 T5 (Sold)
2008 XC90 V8
2001 V70 T5 (Sold)
2008 XC90 V8
- MoVolvos
- Posts: 5270
- Joined: 15 January 2012
- Year and Model: S&V70XC,S60,C30,XC90
- Location: NC
- Has thanked: 310 times
- Been thanked: 524 times
According to IPD the 08 and 09 all have the same TF-89SC transmission regardless of AWD, FWD, 3.2 or V8.
https://www.ipdusa.com/
Blessings,
BKM
2008 C30 T5 2.0 M66
2007 S60 2.5T - New Project
2003 S80 T6 Transmission DIED
2000 S70 SE Base - New Project
1998 S70 T5 Prior
1989 240 Wagon Prior
BKM
2008 C30 T5 2.0 M66
2007 S60 2.5T - New Project
2003 S80 T6 Transmission DIED
2000 S70 SE Base - New Project
1998 S70 T5 Prior
1989 240 Wagon Prior
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