My 2005 XC90 2.5T with 110K miles, routine maintenance time. There are many DIYs and youtube videos, so no need for me to repeat those, but I will list only the important items.
So, MAKE SURE YOU READ THE LINKS BELOW FIRST!
---> My DIY: 1998 Volvo S70 Timing Belt Overhaul, Water Pump, Cam Seals, Serpentine Belt Overhaul
---> If you need to replace the Cam Seals, which won’t leak until 190K miles or so, plus by that time you probably need new VVT sprockets, which are expensive, you need special tool to lock the cam from the Rear Side of the engine. Make sure you read these threads:
https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-xc9 ... 251/page2/
---> How to adjust tensioner:
---> FCP-Euro Youtube Video:
---> My Note on the FCP-Euro Video. ..OK, I did it using “minimalist approach”:
1. No need to remove the cross bar.
2. No need to move the Coolant Reservoir. I guess you can move the PS Pump Reservoir but you can leave it alone.
3. No need to remove Crank Pulley, see note later re 3 “tricky areas” to work the TB around the Crank Pulley.
TOOLS, BOLT SIZE, TORQUE VALUES:
- I used Red LocTite on all the bolts just to be sure.
- You will need roughly 1 gallon of 50-50 coolant mix.
- TB Cover: 10-mm bolt.
- Serpentine Belt Idler Pulley: 14-mm bolt. I don’t know the torque but hand-tight, then give it a twist.
I used Harbor Freight serp belt tool + Torx 60 socket, but you don’t have to. Just pry the plastic cap and use 14-mm wrench to undo the belt. Re Torx size, the correct size is T60 but T55 would work to.
- WP 7 bolts: 10-mm; 20 Nm.
- TB Mechanical Tensioner: 12-mm bolt; 20 Nm.
- TB Idler Pulley: 10-mm bolts; 25 Nm.
- Crank Pulley: 30-mm nut.
1. At 110K miles, the Timing Belt shows very minor hairline cracks. My guess is this TB should last another 30K or so. Ditto for the Serpentine Belt, minor rib cracks but no big deal, it should easily last another 30K. Anyway, I put this Serpentine Belt in the trunk as spare for long trips.
---> Serp Belt pulley free-wheels and slightly noisy, glad I replaced it.
---> The TB Idler Pulley is still solid, no free-wheeling. The TB tensioner pulley: still OK ---> no free-wheeling, but this is the culprit in many forums…when this particular item goes south, there goes your engine.
---> The Water Pump bearing is solid, no play at 100K. My experience with my S70, at 145K, slight bearing play but no leak. This WP is known to last 180K-200K easily. Anyway, I am there, I may as well replace it.
2. A note on TB and VVT system. Do some readings, but the TB does not care about the VVT system, all the TB cares is the relationship between the Crank Sprocket and the Cam Sprockets, as long as this relationship is perfect, you will be fine. The VVT is activated by the solenoids, allowing the cams to be advanced or retarded as needed.
3. RF Wheel removed, I used 2 Jack Stands: the standard 4-leg Jack Stand and a Screw-Type Jack Stand, this allows me to have 2 Jack Stands for maximum safety and the Screw-Type Jack Stand allows the load to be evenly distributed between 2 Jack Stands.
4. Serpentine Belt. The correct socket is Torx 60, but Torx 55 will be fine (I tried T55 and it is OK too). I also have the Harbor Freight Serpentine Tool ($16 or so), this tool is very handy for tight space. If you don’t have any of these tools, no sweat…pry the plastic cap and use a 14-mm wrench, using “2-wrench trick”.
5. In the wheel well, remove the 2 plastic 10-mm nuts, peel the plastic back. I used a piece of wood to prop it open. Using a 30-mm socket + extension + breaker bar, turn the Crank CLOCKWISE until you see the Cam mark (very tiny marks) lining up with the UPPER TB Cover.
---> Now turn the Crank another ¼ turn CLOCKWISE, then COUNTER-CLOCKWISE to line up the Cam marks again. This procedure (turning ¼ turn CW, then CCW) releases the spring tension inside the VVT.
6. Now come my EASY TRICKS!
---> Note that the FCP-Euro youtube video shows you the tiny marks in the Crank, and put the TB Cover back to check timing? Well, no need for any of those.
---> Assuming the car is stock and the timing is correct, here are the EASY steps:
---> Once the Cams line up, do NOT remove the TB yet. For each Cam, place 2 white dots (Liquid Paper etc.), then 2 corresponding Sharpie marks as shown. This way, you don’t need to place the TB Cover back to check. One of the 2 white dots should be on the same tooth as the Front timing mark (you don't have to, but I did it this way to be kosher)...The idea is: the 2 white dots line up with the 2 black Sharpie marks.
---> Now, mark the Crank with white dots as shown. This is the bullet-proof way and very easy to tell if you line things up correctly. Remove the two (2) 10-mm bolts, then remove the small plastic cover.
---> If you want to double-check, then reach down with your LEFT Index finger and feel the ridge (RED Arrow) on the Crank Sprocket.
---> I marked the Crank with Sharpie just to be sure. For the tensioner pulley, watch the FCP-Euro youtube video and tighten the 12-mm bolt finger-tight to prevent the adjuster from moving freely. Now with the 6-mm Hex key, adjust the tensioner so the vertical arm moves to about 2 o’clock position (to tighten the TB), then back to 12 o’clock position (if you are at 20 degrees C).
7. Idler Pulley 10-mm bolts:
8. The debate whether to remove the Crank Pulley: I have done many Volvo TB jobs, there is no need to remove the Crank if you pay attention to the following photo. When the Crank Pulley is in place, whether you remove the TB or install the new TB, there are 3 places you have to work around:
- The 2 plastic edges #1 and #2.
- The Oil Pump Snub.
---> Just turn the TB 90 degrees sideway to slide it in. I wet my fingers with some water on the TB so it slides in nicely (just an option, you don’t have to do this step).
That is it boys and girls…
Don’t forget to read the IMPORTANT NOTE below!
IMPORTANT NOTE: Once done, fill with 50-50 coolant to about 1 inch above Max. Drive around the blocks until the engine is HOT. Chances are air will bleed out and the reservoir will be empty (I filled the reservoir to 1 inch above Max, and after a drive, it is empty!). If you decide to go somewhere, then carry at least ½ gallon of 50-50 coolant in the trunk as you will likely need to top it up (fill reservoir only with COLD engine). Best is to drive around the blocks, go home and top it up with COLD engine.