2013A XC90 - Cooling System Service Topic is solved

Post by **xHeart** » 05 Nov 2018, 12:46

Slow leak at the radiator went undetected for a while. It was replaced with Volvo's last month along with 2 hoses, and set of o'rings at the trans cooler lines.

: MVS_XC90_2580.jpg (498.29 KiB) Viewed 3258 times

: MVS_XC90_2578.jpg (451.86 KiB) Viewed 3258 times

Now preparing to replace thermostat PN 1355151 with 133,500 miles on it. The procedure includes taking off inlet manifold. Are these IM gaskets PN 30650729 reusable OR install with 6 new gaskets?

TIA!

Post by **jimmy57** » 05 Nov 2018, 13:03

Those are re-useable unless you have some reason the think the engine is sludgy. The crankcase vent oil on a sludged engine ends up getting in the gap between head and manifold and settle onto the intake seals and they get hard. Otherwise you'll find them pliable and they will work again. When you get the manifold off you'll find those intake seals are basically green rubber bands in grooves in plastic intake. The edge sticks out 1/16 inch and compresses when you bolt up intake. They do not look like they'd work but the engines that use them don't have issues with intake leaks. Plastic intakes are not rigid enough to compress regular flat composite gaskets. They do get hard with age but that seems to be 10 years or so.

When you are through you need to disconnect the plastic coolant line at the nipple by intake and then fashion a funnel and hose to slip onto that nipple. The engine black won't readily get filled by pouring coolant in to the tank on RH side. Dry engine block once you start engine is not good. You will be able to get 2-3 quarts in but it will go slow due to the small diameter fitting. The prescribed way to fill that engine and all others/all makes with tstat on engine block is to use a vacuum purge and refill device. Filling the block is an alternative.

Post by **xHeart** » 05 Nov 2018, 13:24

The gasket is $24 each, reusing what's there is desired.
The oil and filter change was two weeks ago. Crankcase looks clean at a glance. I could remove it for a closer look.

Meanwhile, the expensive gasket:

Post by **jimmy57** » 05 Nov 2018, 14:06

I wouldn't bother to take anything apart for inspection. If the oil fill looks like hell or some other knowledge of it being sludged then get new. Even then they may be pliable and fine for re-use.

Post by **xHeart** » 06 Nov 2018, 08:57

jimmy57 wrote: ↑05 Nov 2018, 14:06 I wouldn't bother to take anything apart for inspection. If the oil fill looks like hell or some other knowledge of it being sludged then get new. Even then they may be pliable and fine for re-use.

bueno saber!

jimmy57 wrote: ↑05 Nov 2018, 13:03 When you are through you need to disconnect the plastic coolant line at the nipple by intake and then fashion a funnel and hose to slip onto that nipple. The engine black won't readily get filled by pouring coolant in to the tank on RH side. Dry engine block once you start engine is not good. You will be able to get 2-3 quarts in but it will go slow due to the small diameter fitting. The prescribed way to fill that engine and all others/all makes with tstat on engine block is to use a vacuum purge and refill device. Filling the block is an alternative.

The VIDA procedure for radiator replacement drains coolant at petcock. There was still some coolant in the hose at t-stat.
Is there a petcock drain for the block for t-stat procedure?

I can connect a hose at the nipple by intake to fill coolant. Is gravity enough to fill OR use Mityvac or a fluid pump -- like pushing fluid in angle gear?

Nochmals vielen Dank für die Sorgfalt!

Post by **jimmy57** » 06 Nov 2018, 14:14

There is a block drain on the back of block on most 3.2 engines as I recall. The thermostat being removed will get the block pretty dry. The coolant jacket is not deep in the block. Any I filled through the nipple I just put a funnel with a short piece of hose as an adapter and filled funnel a few times until didn't go down.
Let your Golden help but no coolant licking.

Post by **xHeart** » 06 Nov 2018, 15:41

jimmy57 wrote: ↑06 Nov 2018, 14:14 There is a block drain on the back of block on most 3.2 engines as I recall. The thermostat being removed will get the block pretty dry. The coolant jacket is not deep in the block. Any I filled through the nipple I just put a funnel with a short piece of hose as an adapter and filled funnel a few times until didn't go down.
Let your Golden help but no coolant licking.

Thanks again.
Love Golden!

Post by **xHeart** » 07 Nov 2018, 20:07

Preparing for the weekend project. Two photos:
- The clean oil filler ensures inlet gaskets are good for reuse.
- Expansion tank connection line to intake manifold - a refill port says jimmy57.

Post by **jimmy57** » 07 Nov 2018, 21:48

Wow, really clean in there for a baffled oil fill port. Clean for one that isn't baffled for that matter.

Post by **xHeart** » 11 Nov 2018, 07:19

The simplicity of hose fitting is a boon for DIY folks. It is a snap in 3.2.
Drained coolant at radiator petcock, and refilled expansion tank with a gallon of distilled water to explore the nipple function at the intake. The water streamed out from the nipple like a boy in frog fountain after the hose connection was pulled.

Refilled the tank with distilled water, and ran the engine. Now drained dry, moving on to removing stuff. I'm thinking about replacing the belt, idler and tensioner during this maintenance.

Cooling and heating is mother of all systems, making it a priority.