2000-2008 AW55-50SN Valvebody re-assembly

[precopster]

Recorded this video of valve body re-assembly last night. Valve body is from a 2002 V70XC with 292,000kms (181,000 miles) Fluid was dirty and history of fluid changes unknown.

Models affected are:

2001-2008 S60
2001-2007 V70 and X/C
2000 V70 non turbo
2000 V70R

Symptoms: harsh banging with over-rev from 3rd to 2nd gear, thumping from 4th to 3rd gear & general poor drivability when warm.

Actual success or otherwise will be posted in another video tomorrow or Monday.



Finally reassmbled her this afternoon and took her out for a hard drive. After 20 minutes of back street acceleration/deceleration in warm weather the gearbox shifts like a new car!!

So far no adaptation or fluid counter reset is necessary.

[marshallh]

When would you advise to force adaptation and/or reset fluid counter in VIDA in general?

[dialex]

Good Job Mike! I am fascinated of your work, my wife's 2001 V70 2.4t 170000 miles just got into tranny troubles- it starts to slip/ not engage at low speeds, once it engages it runs good, it's almost like there is a little air bubble in the fluid, and once it passes- it is the same monster, I guess that's not good enough for moving the kids around in it. I did a flush with mobil 3309 at 152000 (2 years ago) and I think I should do it again as I hope it will take care of the problem.
How long did it take you to do the whole thing- and how did you pull the tranny out completely?
Regards,
Alex
1989 760 IRS sedan B230FT, 1990 780 Bertone B230FT, 1990 760 Wagon B230FT; One of each body style,
2001 V70 2.4T ; 2004 XC90 2.5T, 1970 144 B20A,
Previously owned: 1999 C70 convertible HPT, 1987 740 GLE, 1976 Citroen CX Palace Diesel,
1986 Peugeot 205 GT 1.4, 1992 Peugeot 309 1.1

[precopster]

The document attached explains how to simply drop the corner of the subframe which then allows enough access to remove the VB cover. About 2.5 hours to drop the subframe and unbolt the valve body cover. If you have a rebuilt valve body on hand you can have it done by dinner if you start in the morning. HOWEVER if you rebuild your own valve body you can be there for 2 days.

Dropping the subframe notes:

1) Not totally necessary to drain the cooling system (the lower radiator hose can be worked around)

2) Not necessary to disconnect the transmission cooling hoses from the radiator (therefore replacing the green clips and seal kit is not necessary) Just route the hoses out of the way then route them back down again when ready to reconnect

3) In order to remove the cooling hose via the large 22mm nut on the valve body cover just place the gear lever in D to allow access to the nut using a large open ended or adjustable spanner.

4) If you have a turbo by simply disconnecting the intercooler hose on the driver's side (LHD) or driver's side (RHD) by means of the large band clamp and bending it upwards you can finally see that pesky 12mm bolt holding the dipstick and cooler hose to the transmission.


Honestly if I were to do it again I would buy a refurbished valve body. I was stuck on the lower plate in the valve body which had a fused gasket on both sides. No amount of gasket stripper would move it. I had to drop it off to a transmission place in order to place it in their washer and finally had to boil it in a pot to remove the gaskets. This held up the job by a week due to my weekend warrior status

[precopster]

When would you advise to force adaptation and/or reset fluid counter in VIDA in general?

Adaptation REALLY only works right when the valve body is working properly and has freed up solenoids.

Resetting the fluid counter according to Vida:

Resetting Transmission fluid change counter
Hint: The transmission control module (TCM) has a counter for the oil quality. The counter counts up if the transmission is exposed to too high a load or an ambient temperature that is too high. If the counter is not reset when the oil is drained or changed, there is a risk that a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) will be stored in faulty circumstances. Therefore it is important that the “Transmission oil change” counter is reset.
Note! This applies only when the transmission fluid is changed and when the fluid is changed when repairs are carried out to the transmission temperature sensor.

[dialex]

Thanks for the reply, I dropped it off at the dealer for diagnostics and ordered the vida/Dice, so let's see what they'll say,
Regards,
Alex
1989 760 IRS sedan B230FT, 1990 780 Bertone B230FT, 1990 760 Wagon B230FT; One of each body style,
2001 V70 2.4T ; 2004 XC90 2.5T, 1970 144 B20A,
Previously owned: 1999 C70 convertible HPT, 1987 740 GLE, 1976 Citroen CX Palace Diesel,
1986 Peugeot 205 GT 1.4, 1992 Peugeot 309 1.1

[precopster]

Dealers ALWAYS and without fail will quote for a new/rebuilt transmission. It is their only way to provide a guaranteed and watertight repair service on these transmissions.

We home tinkerers have the benefit of time and patience. A dealer will SUPPLY a new valve body however will NEVER be involved in its replacement due to wanting to avoid customer returns due to other internal faults which are usually undiagnosable until the gearbox is stripped.

So I'll look into a crystal ball here and guess that they'll quote you on a rebuilt transmission regardless of the severity of symptoms.

[dialex]

Just got back from the dealer, they only charged me $57 for diagnostics, which was good, they had the car for a week and they said couldn't find anything wrong with it, I got in, started the engine and took off, as normal after trans axle warmed up, I was on the Free way and it started acting up- this time between 3rd and 4th gear, the whole body started shaking and I switched into neutral the first time then into 4 and then 3rd, didn't experiment with winter mode, as on the way in. I guess I am looking at valve body replacement. Dealer said the fluid was clean, and software was up to date.
I am debating weather to go trough valve body replacement or get a low miles S60 rear end collision and replace the pair all together- they are easy to find and you can get them very cheap.
Any thoughts?

Alex
1989 760 IRS sedan B230FT, 1990 780 Bertone B230FT, 1990 760 Wagon B230FT; One of each body style,
2001 V70 2.4T ; 2004 XC90 2.5T, 1970 144 B20A,
Previously owned: 1999 C70 convertible HPT, 1987 740 GLE, 1976 Citroen CX Palace Diesel,
1986 Peugeot 205 GT 1.4, 1992 Peugeot 309 1.1

[precopster]

The difference in time is 5-6 hrs for valve body replacement versus 18 hours for transmission replacement PLUS replacement of input seal and (while you're there) rear main seal.

I was hoping my posts would encourage more people to take on the valve body repair.

Also if you want to take the easy way out you can purchase the SLT, SLU & SLS solenoids refurbished with new bushing materials alone from Sonnax. (this saves around 1.5 hrs as you don't need to remove the VB)

Another option is to look at your VIN through Vida and see what a new transmission costs. I was surprised to learn that Tasca Parts lists my '01 XCs transmission COMPLETE at only $2, 400.
You just may save yourself a whole load of bother and time if you buy a new (Volvo refurbished) transmission.

[dialex]

I completely agree with you, and just checked the sonnax website- they have 3 different kits (59947-70K, 59947-69K, 59947-68K) and I guess you have to measure your solenoids before ordering, and this should also save you the $500 for the rebuild Valve body, it should be possible to remove those carefully with the valve body still on the trans-axle, by the way do you know where is the TCM located? Is it in the same box as the ECU?
My Vida Dice 2013D just arrived, and I am going to start learning how to use it. Mean while wife says: "This 760 is actually holding very well on the highway at 80Mph..."

Alex
1989 760 IRS sedan B230FT, 1990 780 Bertone B230FT, 1990 760 Wagon B230FT; One of each body style,
2001 V70 2.4T ; 2004 XC90 2.5T, 1970 144 B20A,
Previously owned: 1999 C70 convertible HPT, 1987 740 GLE, 1976 Citroen CX Palace Diesel,
1986 Peugeot 205 GT 1.4, 1992 Peugeot 309 1.1