2001 S60 Any preventive maintenance proposal? Topic is solved

zoli_m13 · Post by **zoli_m13** » 09 Apr 2015, 10:30

Dear All over the big Pond,

I had 7 years experience with VW Beetle (MY71), 2x Suzuki, Daewoo Rezzo and 5 years with SAAB 9-5 (MY98); shade-tree-DIY is my and my son's hobby as well!

So, I found this S60 2.0T A/T at a VOLVO mechanics; this car (called 'Ludwick') has great service records and well maintened in the past, e.g. timing set, ribbed belt and pulley(s), suspension, properly changed engine and tranny oils; no rust found anywhere. Good shaped car & runs very well; the 5 cylinder with auto tranny sounds excellent at acceleration! Cruising is like a dream...

I will do a starting service:

- 6 L engine oil (Castrol Magnatec 5W40, fully synthetic ACEA A3/B3)
- oil filter (Hengst)
- air filter (Hengst)
- cabin filter (Kiak)
- oil sump bolt and O-ring
- fuel filter (Denckemann)
- spark plugs (Bosch 0242235749)

Do you propose any other as a preventive maintenance? Do I focus on something - any weak point/part of the engine/tranny?

Any hint to be appreciated, please!
(I'm from Hungary, so apologize me in case of improper English language...)

Post by **abscate** » 09 Apr 2015, 12:02

Szia, Zoll!

The PCV (engine ventilation system) on these cars needs attention at high miles (150,000 km or more) but on the later Volvos like yours it is warmed by the coolant and tends to be less of a problem.

I suggest a compression test as well as the 'glove test' which I will find links to and post here shortly!

draser · Post by **draser** » 10 Apr 2015, 17:20

Welcome to the club to you and Ludwick. Being a 2001 I'd focus on the tranny by doing several drain and fills - in addition what was already suggested. Some members recommend a Magnefine, or other preferred brand, tranny in-line oil filter which sounds like a good idea. Another Volvo "feature" is the tendency of the radiator to crack and coolant gets in the tranny, so I'd keep an eye on that, but I don't think that's specific to your year - however that rad it's got a few years on it. And then, there's the age related stuff, like all rubber gets spongy with time so I'd do hoses, vac lines, etc. Sounds like you're good on belts, I'd still remove the top sprokets cover and eyeball timing belt for cracks, oil, etc. And while in there line up the marks to see what it looks like. Nice house.

zoli_m13 · Post by **zoli_m13** » 10 Apr 2015, 21:04

Thanks for the great advises!

This B5204T2 VOLVO engine (developed in 1991 for VOLVO 850) seems to me much bullet proof design comparing with my sludge prone B205E SAAB 9-5. Automatic transmission will be on my preventive maintenance plan now!

Glove test description has found - to be done as well!

What do you think about sump drop? Here semi-synthetic Castrol 10W40 applied by VOLVO dealer mechanics for years: looks like not optimal choice for a turbo-charged 'beast', however the original manual handbook doesn't against of it. Anyway, I will switch to synthetic 5W40.

Have a great weekend for all of us!

Post by **abscate** » 11 Apr 2015, 06:01

If the oil has been serviced I do not think you will have to drop the pan. The sludge will have been kept down by oil changes in Volvos.

zoli_m13 · Post by **zoli_m13** » 11 Apr 2015, 08:20

Glove test has done and failed at both places (at the engine oil filling cap and af the dipstick - cap and dipstick were off, of course): the glove inflated at both places at idling.

Worn piston rings and/or clogged PCV system? Is there any one-way (check) valve could be mailfunctioning?

Post by **vtl** » 11 Apr 2015, 08:33

PCV is not just a PTC valve, it's a fairly costly beast: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... urbopcvkit You will also need to drop the oil sump and clean return oil passage (plus replace old O-rings in sump). If the car had PCV clogged for a while, pressure pushes camshaft seals out.

zoli_m13 · Post by **zoli_m13** » 11 Apr 2015, 12:00

Thx for this!

I was advised repeating the glove test after fully warmed up engine - to be done Sunday.

After checking the engine bay: no major oil leak found, only some minor oil film on the outlet tube from the intercooler. After 500 miles driving (since ownership): no oil loss realized, however the tailpipe is little bit sooty. The former owner replaced the valve stem seals due to excessive oil burning, replaced the ETM due to dirty condition and not stable rev at idling.

Tranny oil also changed approx. 16K miles ago: I enjoy each miles with this car!

Post by **vtl** » 11 Apr 2015, 12:56

Healthy PCV develops a good amount of vacuum on turbo engine, cold/warm engine - doesn't matter. PCV in your car is well clogged.

zoli_m13 · Post by **zoli_m13** » 12 Apr 2015, 02:52

Unfortunatelly, you had absolutle right: the PCV system partly blocked; fully warmed up engine has positive crankcase pressure at the oil fill cap and thd dipstick. Low pressure, but well visible smoke is coming out.

Still no oil drops in the engine bay, no pop-up dipstick or any whistling noise from the oil filler cap. No low oil pressure warning light on.

My evaluation: it's time to clean this neglected crankcase ventillation system. The plan:
1. Oil change to full synthetic Castrol 5W40
2. Cleaning the PTC valve
3. Blowing through the PCV hoses by air to check the blockage (top and bottom).
4. Optional: replacement the shole PCV system
5. Optional: sump drop & pick-up tube/screen cleaning + new O-rings

Any input about this plan could be great!