P80 P2 Subframe Bushing installation with pictures 3507923

Blacklab467 · Post by **Blacklab467** » Sat Dec 19, 2020 1:13 pm

Just completed installing 4 subframe bushings and new spring seats with genuine Volvo parts. Its a pretty straightforward job for those contemplating it. I didn't document the spring seat install as it is a simple process. Subframe bushings should take 3 or 4 hours with hand tools, nothing special required in the way of tools. I thought as I did the first one that I was in over my head and would need a press or something to get the new one in before coming up with a simple solution.

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Bushing removal was very easy, I drilled out the white plastic on the bushing with a 1/4 inch drill bit and then simply pried it out with a flathead and hammer. You must drill out the plastic in at least one spot to "collapse" it and get it loose. There's no need to remove the centre part with a hole saw as some people have done.

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I then cleaned the bushing bore with some emery cloth, a couple of mine were rusty and scaly. I then put a small amount of wheel bearing grease on the outside plastic body of the bushing to help it get started. I used the floor jack and a piece of wood to start the bushing. You'll probably only get the bushing in about a half inch with the floor jack, just not enough force to get it fully seated

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I used the washer from the first bushing and turned it upside down and glued some top strut nuts on it to make an installation tool and a bushing bolt to fully seat the bushing. This was necessary so that the force is distributed on the plastic frame of the bushing, not the rubber tabs which will crush. You will also need to put a spacer between the subframe and the frame so that the bushing seats in its bore and doesn't push up on the car frame. For this I used a Large Allen key as seen in the picture. You'll know when the bushing is fully seated, it's pretty obvious. I probably only had to use about 50 foot pounds pressure on the bolt to suck the bushings in. I would discourage using an impact wrench for this step.

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That's about it. The job took about 3-4 hours and made a world of difference on the handling and road noise/ feel of the car. You will want to use new bolts and torque them to 105 Nm plus 120 degrees. Also important to take note of the orientation of the bushing when you take it out and ensure that the new ones go in the same, this apparently is very important!

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YouTube · Post by **oragex** » Sat Dec 19, 2020 3:54 pm

Good job. Good point about not pushing directly on the rubber tabs. When pushing directly on the plastic with the 4 nuts, did the plastic lip feel solid enough ? I may add, the two smaller 14mm bolts on the rear bracket are 37 ft-lb torque

Since other people will watch this thread in the future, I would like to also warn about potential issues with the large subframe bolts, same may rust badly which will cause them to get thinner (so less solid) and also stuck. There were a few unlucky people who had such bolts break during removal (not fun). If one feels the bolt is stuck or starts to 'twist', better stop removing it. I recommend not using excessive force on the breaker bar while trying to remove a bolt. Here's a picture of a badly rusted subframe bolt.

Notice the bolts have a black paint coat, once this coat is scratched, rust starts having a party. I've found the same issue with the two horizontal control arm bolts
.

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Blacklab467 · Post by **Blacklab467** » Sat Dec 19, 2020 4:05 pm

Thanks, I didn't have that torque for the bracket! I'll have to go out and double check it.
With the 4 nuts it seemed to be pretty gentle on the plastic bushing body, as mentioned it didn't take too much torque on the big bolt to seat them. My bolts weren't rusty like that fortunately. I had them out before when I rebuilt my valve body and had meant to replace them sooner. It would be a very bad day if you broke one of those bolts and had to then get the remains out!

Post by **darrylrobert** » Sat Dec 19, 2020 7:58 pm

How did you know they needed replacing? did you see damage/torn rubber or heard/felt noises?

Blacklab467 · Post by **Blacklab467** » Sat Dec 19, 2020 8:07 pm

The steering was vague and loose and I was getting a lot of engine vibration at idle and road noise. Everything else was new except the strut spring seats which I did at the same time. Also inspection revealed that the rubber was pretty soft on at least the rear ones. I jacked the car up and pried under the tire with a long prybar, revealing for certain that the spring seats were done and that the subframe bushings were extremely soft and moving excessively. Didn't want to take a chance and just install the inserts. Parts were cheap and piece of mind with the new bolts was worth it. It is a noticeable improvement! Car had 280000kms on the original parts.

YouTube · Post by **oragex** » Sun Dec 20, 2020 6:03 am

I think mileage it's a good indicator - 280000kms is 170k miles. Mine has 140k miles and same as above, when you remove a subframe bolt (support the subframe) and insert the handle of a ratchet into the bushing hole, the rubber twists very easily. New bushings are very stiff. Also, my front ones leak some fluid. That doesn't mean the rubber will fail, these rubbers never fail completely like spring seats do And same thing about engine vibration, I don't have much, but you can feel it at idle - I actually like having a bit of engine vibration, makes for more 'feeling' on a car. I don't think I really need to replace mines, I already bought them genuine - don't buy $10 ones - will see the next summer. I rather have to replace the sway bar because it makes creaking noises at the bushings.

firstv70volvo · Post by **firstv70volvo** » Wed Mar 03, 2021 7:15 pm

Blacklab467 wrote: ↑Sat Dec 19, 2020 1:13 pm Just completed installing 4 subframe bushings and new spring seats with genuine Volvo parts. Its a pretty straightforward job for those contemplating it. I didn't document the spring seat install as it is a simple process. Subframe bushings should take 3 or 4 hours with hand tools, nothing special required in the way of tools. I thought as I did the first one that I was in over my head and would need a press or something to get the new one in before coming up with a simple solution......

This is such great information and I only have one question before doing the same job. For the drivers side rear bushing should you disconnect the steering shaft to steering rack pinch bolt since the subframe does have to come down some?

Thanks so much for the tips, the drilling out of the plastic outer shell to remove the bushings and the washer with nut standoffs to press in the bushings are such good ideas, much appreciated.

Blacklab467 · Post by **Blacklab467** » Wed Mar 03, 2021 7:32 pm

No don't worry about that, you only have to drop the subframe enough to get a spacer in between the subframe and the mainframe, about a quarter inch, make sure you do this otherwise the bushings will not seat fully. Note the orientation of the bushings before you take them out and put the new ones in the same way.....this IS important! Also make sure to use new bolts, if you start at noon you should be done in time for a pre dinner cold beer!
One other note.....make sure you get them started straight in the bores before you "press" them in with the bolts, once they're started, it may be impossible to to get them out without destroying them, I hope you splurged for the OEM Volvo ones!

Post by **abscate** » Thu Mar 04, 2021 5:23 am

Use same parts on P80 and P2 chassis

Added part number

rein $12
Volvo $36

See recommendation above for OEM on this one

firstv70volvo · Post by **firstv70volvo** » Thu Mar 04, 2021 8:30 am

Blacklab467 wrote: ↑Wed Mar 03, 2021 7:32 pm No don't worry about that, you only have to drop the subframe enough to get a spacer in between the subframe and the mainframe, about a quarter inch, make sure you do this otherwise the bushings will not seat fully. Note the orientation of the bushings before you take them out and put the new ones in the same way.....this IS important! Also make sure to use new bolts, if you start at noon you should be done in time for a pre dinner cold beer!
One other note.....make sure you get them started straight in the bores before you "press" them in with the bolts, once they're started, it may be impossible to to get them out without destroying them, I hope you splurged for the OEM Volvo ones!

Yes, purchased OEM Volvo bushings and bolts from IPDUSA. Thanks for the additional tips.