89 240 Crank Pulley looks unbalanced?

Post by **Volvo_240_Atari_2600** » 04 Oct 2009, 04:58

89 245
238 k, AT, Non Turbo
with AC
Florida

I noticed the other day my alternator was running on one belt.
Engine off, I saw this and realized I lost that one somewhere.

Yesterday while at Autozone, I purchased the missing belt and checked the transmission fluid level and the engine was running of course.

I noticed the large crank pulley was the only pulley that seems to have a little play... When I say play, it looks unbalanced, maybe bent? but it clearly does not rotate flat like all the other accessory pulleys on the engine.

Five years ago, pep boys replaced (at least they say they did) the crank pully saying that with this vintage volvo gaving a problem where a rubber back of some sort starts to give... Five years ago when I had this servide done by them, I had what appeared to be a dead battery. Batery was dead but they said batery and alternator were fine and the problem was the pulley.

Running on one alternator belt for about 3 weeks I do notice at initial start up in the mornings, the "alt/battery" light on the dash comes on and will come off when I just add a little pressure to thegas pedal... Then its business as usual as the day goes on at any and every start up.

Does this pulley thing sound right?
If so, is it relatively easy to replace from home?
If so, are there any special tools needed?
Are there any detailed write ups in case timing must be adjusted?

Thanks
Eric

Post by **billofdurham** » 04 Oct 2009, 12:00

Does this pulley thing sound right?

Yes. The crankshaft pulley on the '89 240 is, in fact, an oscillation damper. You have a centre pulley section with a rubber strip sandwiched between it and an outer pulley section. The rubber does go soft and can cause timing problems, but only if you are trying to adjust the timing. It does not affect the timing belt.

To replace the pulley you need to remove the belts from it and then remove the crank bolt and the pulley will come off. It sounds so easy BUT the problem lies in getting the bolt out. Ideally the crank should be held captive using the Volvo crankshaft holder. There have been various methods described for removing the nut without the tool but most of them can cause damage to the crankshaft. The pulley has a little extrusion that does the work of a keyway/shaft. It is a cast part and it is delicate. In the old days it was enough to put a socket with a breaker bar over the pulley bolt, wedge it against something solid, usually the floor, and turn the starter over to break loose the bolt. NO MORE!! That little extrusion will break off or weaken so it breaks later and all your accessory drives will grind to a halt. That little piece of metal is special order. Get the right tool and restrain the pulley as it should be done. You may be able to hire one as other tool makers have brought out the equivalent.

Doing this job should not affect the timing belt as you are not touching it.

Bill.

Post by **Volvo_240_Atari_2600** » 18 Oct 2009, 05:56

Bill,

Once again, thank you for your input.
I have located the special VOLVO tool and will be ordering it soon.
I have seen various pulleys online and I believe ALL of those appear to be described as aftermarket/OEM fit etc...

Is aftermarket/OM OK to use?
Also... Nowhere in anyone's description of the pulley, do they say anything about anything rubber that would be a part of the pulley. Is the rubber part an actual part that should accompany a new pulley? Or can I find the rubber piece alone and just use my pulley.

I'd rather not buy a pulley if mine is still worthy and only need the rubber in between it and the crank portion hat secured the pulley.

FCP Groton has the tool and the pulley but nothing about rubber stated.

Or am I missing something here?
Any additional information you can share is greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
Eric

Post by **billofdurham** » 18 Oct 2009, 11:16

Volvo call the pulley 'an oscillation damper' and the rubber insert is built in. The problem comes when the rubber stretches and allows the metal to move on its own. There is a possibility that the outer metal part will fly off and cause untold damage to the car. This is a possibility and I have never heard of it happening but I haven't spoken to every 240 owner

.

The B230 engine was fitted from 1985. Prior to that the engine used had a two digit number e.g. B23. These engines were fitted with an ordinary pulley.

The pulley that FCP sells is the correct one for your car. The part number, 9135194, is the Volvo part number and it is described as a harmonic balancer.

Bill.

lummert · Post by **lummert** » 18 Oct 2009, 16:55

Bill, I have a question about replacing this crankshaft pulley on B230FT. If I use the rope trick to hold the crankshaft while removing the bolt holding the pulley to the crankshaft do I risk damage to the crankshaft or crankshaft timing sprocket? I have a crankshaft pulley that is slipping and plan to replace it. I found a nearly new crankshaft pulley on a 1991 740 and used the rope trick to remove the bolt and had no problem getting the bolt loose using an 18 inch long breaker bar and socket.

Post by **billofdurham** » 19 Oct 2009, 12:33

The rope trick is another removal method that risks damage to the little extrusion, or nib, as some call it. It may not shear immediately but it will be weakened and you risk losing the drive to all your accessories.

The proper tool is the safest way to do it. If you are handy at metal work or have a local metal work shop you can find instructions for making the tool on Swedishbricks - Special tool designs.

Mine cost me £2.00 ($3.27 at today's rate) as he used offcuts which were destined for the scrap box.

Bill.

Post by **Volvo_240_Atari_2600** » 20 Oct 2009, 07:54

Hello Bill,

Sorry to be a pain but I have a question for you and I do not understand where the rubber on thhe pully is.

Having trouble inserting a stock photo from FCP Groton's website.
The photo they show of that pulley shows the back side that would slap against the crank. The deeper end... Not seen in the FCP photo is the side that faces the radiator.

Where is the rubber that goes bad on these?
I just want to be sure when I buy it I am buying the correct part as well as not forgetting anything else that I may need with the pulley for this job.

Thank you
Eric

lummert · Post by **lummert** » 20 Oct 2009, 10:08

Ok, I will give this a shot.
The balancer is round if you put it on a flat surface. There is a center hub and an outer ring. The rubber is sandwiched between the outer ring and the center hub.

Edit: While replacing this crankshaft pulley if you paint a white line from the timing mark on the outer ring to the inner hub on the surface facing outwards you would in the future be able to notice if the outer ring has shifted or slipped by looking at the mark and noting if it is still in alignment.

Post by **Volvo_240_Atari_2600** » 20 Oct 2009, 10:17

Lummert...

OK let me see if I have this right...
The hub is what stays on the engine (crank) when the pulley comes off.
Putting the new pulley on over the hub its like male (hub) entering female (pulley) with this rubber ring inbetween both?

If this sounds right, then now I know what to ask for when I get the pulley and rubber ring. Right?

Thanks

Also.... once I have removed the bolt holding the pulley to the hub (of course I will have the pulley holding tool for this), will there be any additional affort to pull the pulley of the hub?

It shouldbe straight forward where I just pull it back toward me? Right?
What about installation of new with ring. Are there any special "press" installation process I should be prepared for?

Thanks again
Eric

Post by **billofdurham** » 20 Oct 2009, 11:51

This is a picture of the unit courtesy of IPD:

: 6261.jpg (59.19 KiB) Viewed 6292 times

and this is the write-up that accompanies it:

Crankshaft Pulley Vibration Damper
Volvo began using a crankshaft vibration damper in 1985 when the B230 engine was introduced. The damper helps to reduce the vibration inherent in all 4 cylinder engines. A small section of rubber separates the inner and outer portions of the crankshaft pulley. Over time, the rubber begins to weaken and allows the outer section to rotate around the inner piece. This can lead to squeaky noises coming from the engine compartment that sound like loose belts. The ignition timing marks will no longer line up and when using a timing light you will see the timing marks slowly rotating as the outer pulley slips.
Some owners have reported cases of the outer pulley moving inboard enough to allow the belts to rub on the timing belt cover. If yours is exhibiting any of these problems, you should replace it before it fails and leaves you stranded.

You don't get the pulley with a separate piece of rubber. The rubber is built in.

The 'hub' is the hole in the pulley and the whole thing comes off the crankshaft when you take out the crankshaft bolt. It should slide off without too much bother or you may need to encourage it with gentle prying. Once it is off you will be left with a bare crankshaft end.

The new pulley will slide on without any need for presses.

Bill.