SRS light on

[JimBee]

I've checked all the connectors behind the glove box where I did the repair, they all seem tight. Are there fuses on the orange line? Might I have blown one? Since the fault is at the steering wheel, across the dash from my point of operation, I have no idea where to begin. Suggestions anyone?
Thanks in advance!
JB

[JRL]

You may need a new closk spring

[confused_al]

i suppose you already know that your whole SRS system is disabled when the SRS light is on. JRL is very much right about your clock spring, which is a common failure part of the system.
Having said that, you can try to reset the SRS controller by;
1, claer all the codes from B-5;
2, disconnect "-" cable from battery for >10 min (then bridge car's terminals to discharge capacitors would be a plus) ;
3, turn the key to position II;
4 reconnect "-" to battery (ensure no one is inside the car);

For more details, you should download the service menu in which the SRS part is well documented.

[JimBee]

Al and others:
Is the clock spring an electronic device? It sounds mechanical. If electronic, I guess I can see how momentarily opening a circuit somewhere behind the glove box could affect a device remote from that point (like in the steering wheel). But if it's a piece of wire, how could I have damaged it from the other side of the dash?

I don't see anything in my Haynes Manual on it. Can you post a URL for the manual where I can find details?

O.k., one dumb question: By now you'd think I would know how to clear a code. I do know how to read one, but does reading it clear it? I don't see that addressed in the Haynes Manual either. Today, I read the B5 port and came up with the steering wheel open circuit. Did reading that code clear it? If I read it again, will I see the same code if the problem persists? If there's more than one code, how do I go on to the next one?

And, please explain what you mean by "bridge car's terminals".

Thanks,
JB

[confused_al]

Is the clock spring an electronic device? It sounds mechanical.

Its kinda like a switch, its also known as "contact reel"...you will have better idea once you read the write-up for evaporator replacement http://www.woodjoiner.com/volvo/ or http://volvospeed.com/Repair/ignition_S80.html
SRS wiring info:
http://volvoforums.com/forum/attachment ... 1251298600

But if it's a piece of wire, how could I have damaged it from the other side of the dash?

That is the reason I suggest you to reset the controller.

I do know how to read one, but does reading it clear it?

No, you have to clear the codes same as you clear the CEL codes (http://volvospeed.com/CheckEngine.php) but on B-5.

And, please explain what you mean by "bridge car's terminals".

Just short the negative and the positive cables of the car (after disconnected from negative terminal of the battery).

BTW, I found the link for the service menu )its for 95 but most of it will fit your 93.
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/dow.../Volvo_850.zip

[JimBee]

Al,
Thanks for the links! I tried disconnecting the battery for a couple of hours, the SRS light is still on. I didn't short anything, though. I'm confused about the shorting method; am I supposed to actually touch the disconnected ground cable to the hot side of the battery? Or should the HOT cable ALSO be DISCONNECTED then touch that to the disconnected ground cable?

I was glad to discover in the SERV picture the wiring harness for SRS seems quite simple. There can't be that many places where a circuit could be open, if in fact the diagnostic unit is correctly reporting. One thing I haven't done is actually clear the code. I read it, but that handy little book you mention gives a nice clear explanation of reading vs. clearing, how to do both. So officially clearing the code is the next step (after reading them all).

Thanks again; those links are really useful, though I can't say I'm looking forward to pulling the steering wheel apart to replace the clock spring. How would you test it with a multimeter for continuity? Obviously with the battery disconnected!!, but are there contacts that can be easily probed to check the circuit?

Is the SERV service manual online someplace? That one page that shows the SRS harness is great. How can I access the rest of it?

JB

[confused_al]

How would you test it with a multimeter for continuity?

NO! NO! NO! You might tagger the air bag, DO NOT!!

Did you reconnect to battery while key is in position II? Thats how the SRS module goes though the diagnose/reset procedure, but you still need to clear the codes first.
About the part to short terminals, let me quote MIJ's:

disconnect battery leads...wait 15 mins...touch the wires together (not with battery!)...

Last nite I found the link for SRS part of the service menu (just skip the side bag part). http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/tech/servic ... System.pdf

GL!

Edit:
I just read the service menu again, looks you only need to clear the codes rather than reset the SRS modual;

On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) unit performs 2 tests: a start-up
test and a cyclical test. During start-up test, microprocessors
perform complete system diagnosis. Faults will not be recorded until
start-up test has been repeated 1 or 2 more times. Cyclical test is
performed 4 times per second. Faults must be detected during 2
successive measurements before they will be stored. After a fault has
been detected for 10 seconds, it will be stored, and SRS warning light
will be turned on. When faults are detected, SRS warning light will
remain on until they are corrected and cleared from OBD.

[JimBee]

Al,
Just got back from work a while ago and have had a chance to look at the service manual. This is hugely valuable! I will suggest to mod's that everyone beginning to service their own 850 '95 or later MUST READ THIS. Maybe that AVIS is already on the site. Thankfully, mine is a '93 (whew). I have had the front seats out twice, yesterday for the second time when I replaced the carpet. I had no clue about SIPS.

The SIPS manual also (possibly) answers my question about the seat belt tensioner. I pulled one from a wreck because it worked smoothly installed. But after I removed it, the belt retracted all the way and locked tight. It wouldn't unspool. That was the driver's side tensioner. The car did take a hit to the right front, probably hard enough to set off the tensioner and steering wheel bag (the steering wheel was missing, so don't know).

I'm about half way through the manual and a lot wiser about the whole SRS than I was. Still not clear on what is meant by "shielding" the negative battery cable (just wrap it in plastic, once disconnected?). And the concept of touching the cables (both disconnected?). Maybe the latter is mentioned later in the manual.

Also, I will look for the violet connector behind the glove box where I was working. Did that come loose? Don't know and didn't know it was in SRS harness. Maybe I'll get lucky and find the "open circuit" in there somewhere yet (without putting a multimeter on it—gulp).

Anyway, thanks again for digging this out of the info universe; it should be very helpful!

JB

[shagginwaggin]

Is the clock spring an electronic device?

Yes. It's "behind" the steering wheel. It's the electrical contact point between things that move with the steering wheel (airbag, horn, and on newer cars, steering wheel controls) and the steering column.

But if it's a piece of wire, how could I have damaged it from the other side of the dash?

Doesn't sound like you damaged the clockspring from the other side of the dash. I believe folks are saying it is bad, independently.

I don't see anything in my Haynes Manual on it. Can you post a URL for the manual where I can find details?

Here: http://www.links4jeeps.com/writeups/clockspring/ ...Although this isn't for a Volvo, it's got good pictures. Ours is similar. Gotta remove the airbag, etc.

O.k., one dumb question: By now you'd think I would know how to clear a code. I do know how to read one, but does reading it clear it?

No. But I think you have to read it first before you clear it. It's two separate actions but you can't clear them before they're read at least once.

If I read it again, will I see the same code if the problem persists?

Yes, it should.

If there's more than one code, how do I go on to the next one?

It should give you all codes, one after the other. When all codes are read it starts back over at the first one.

And, please explain what you mean by "bridge car's terminals".

Uh... if you don't know what this means then don't do it since there is personal danger with that procedure. In this case you're bridging the battery terminals. You can do it with one jumper cable--touching one end to the negative terminal and the other end to the positive terminal.

[mvsuzr]

was going to comment on the "bridging the wires" question, but discovered page 2...