Concur with suggestion to loosen mounting bracket before attaching strut to interior mount. This makes life much, much easier.
I was able to get OEM Volvo struts (2) from autopartsworld.com delivered to my home for $95.
Tailgate Strut replacement notes '97 850 GLT
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database »
Project: 850 Wagon Tailgate Struts Replacement Tutorial
Long time lurker, first time poster.
I finally got around to replacing my struts today (units from FCP) on my '98 V70 AWD. Took a bit longer than other that posted here but only 35-40 minutes total job time. Finally gave in and had to loosen the inner strut brackets as others suggested. Struts popped right off after that. Seemed a real bugger without loosening these. I didn't use the clips that came with the FCP struts.
Just wanted to thank everyone who's posted tips here for this job and others as they're greatly appreciated.
Now if I can just figure out why no washer fluid will come out the rear jets all my tailgate problems will be solved....
Cheers!
Patrick
I finally got around to replacing my struts today (units from FCP) on my '98 V70 AWD. Took a bit longer than other that posted here but only 35-40 minutes total job time. Finally gave in and had to loosen the inner strut brackets as others suggested. Struts popped right off after that. Seemed a real bugger without loosening these. I didn't use the clips that came with the FCP struts.
Just wanted to thank everyone who's posted tips here for this job and others as they're greatly appreciated.
Now if I can just figure out why no washer fluid will come out the rear jets all my tailgate problems will be solved....
Cheers!
Patrick
Similar advice:
• The after-market struts were a few millimeters longer than the original Volvo struts, and since these struts are under an incredible amount of pressure, compressing the strut socket into alignment with the ball is not viable. Consequently, it’s necessary to loosen (not remove) the tailgate hinge fasteners, attach the ball and socket, then retighten the fasteners.
• Keep in mind that as soon as either strut is removed, the tailgate will come down…and fast! You’d think that the remaining strut would at least make the tailgate close slowly, but it doesn’t, so be prepared.
• Regarding the "captive" clips: REMOVE THESE BEFORE INSTALLATION, then install them once the ball is in the socket; otherwise, you damage the clips in the process of installation, defeating their purpose. They will slip into place easily, after installation.
• My after-market struts came with a dollop of lube in the center of the bottom of each socket. Ideally, the ball would fill the socket almost perfectly, dispersing the lube evenly around the inside of the socket. I didn’t want to run the risk that this wouldn’t happen, so I smeared the lube around the inside of the socket myself, then put a touch of silicone around the rim of the socket, so that the ball would slip in more easily. Remember: REMOVE THE “CAPTIVE” PIN ON EACH SOCKET BEFORE INSTALLATION! Otherwise, both it and the ball can be damaged!
• The after-market struts were a few millimeters longer than the original Volvo struts, and since these struts are under an incredible amount of pressure, compressing the strut socket into alignment with the ball is not viable. Consequently, it’s necessary to loosen (not remove) the tailgate hinge fasteners, attach the ball and socket, then retighten the fasteners.
• Keep in mind that as soon as either strut is removed, the tailgate will come down…and fast! You’d think that the remaining strut would at least make the tailgate close slowly, but it doesn’t, so be prepared.
• Regarding the "captive" clips: REMOVE THESE BEFORE INSTALLATION, then install them once the ball is in the socket; otherwise, you damage the clips in the process of installation, defeating their purpose. They will slip into place easily, after installation.
• My after-market struts came with a dollop of lube in the center of the bottom of each socket. Ideally, the ball would fill the socket almost perfectly, dispersing the lube evenly around the inside of the socket. I didn’t want to run the risk that this wouldn’t happen, so I smeared the lube around the inside of the socket myself, then put a touch of silicone around the rim of the socket, so that the ball would slip in more easily. Remember: REMOVE THE “CAPTIVE” PIN ON EACH SOCKET BEFORE INSTALLATION! Otherwise, both it and the ball can be damaged!
You all saved me headaches. I did end up receiving the after market struts with the clips. I did follow on posters advice on loosening the forward brakets to give that bit of room needed. Seems those brakets have slotted holes, so it would seem that were designed to be adjusted. Took about 40mins. I also cracked part of the molding, d%mn!
1995 850 wagon (n/a) (157000 miles)
1998 S70 (136000)
1998 S70 (136000)
Dude. You Rock! Thank you so much for the information. I popped my struts on in less than 10 minutes. I love my Volvo. It has to be the easiest car I have ever had the privilege of working on and the best car I have ever owned.
Finally a job that is as easy as it looks. I used OEM replacements and did not need to remove the mounting brackets. It's really helpful to have someone else raise the tailgate while you pop the new ones on.
On a side note, I found one of my rattles. My left rear speaker plastic bracket has a broken tab.
On a side note, I found one of my rattles. My left rear speaker plastic bracket has a broken tab.
'94 855T Wagon (120K)= Boost and a booster seat all in one.
Stage 0 in progress...
Stage 0 in progress...
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vjaneczko
- Posts: 1550
- Joined: 27 March 2006
- Year and Model: 2006 S60R
- Location: San Antonio, TX
- Been thanked: 6 times
Just replaced my tailgate struts with replacements from FCP Groton and the job went pretty well. A few notes;
(1) the units came with a little metal pin that helps to keep the strut on the ball, I assume it is instead of a snap-ring device inside the receiving cup. I didn't think anything of them and tried to jam the strut onto the ball. I wound up bending the pin before I figured out that they needed to be removed first. But I was able to wiggle it off and bend it back into shape. Make sure you remove these or you'll never get the struts on! Sorry I didn't take some photos but I didn't think anything of it at the time.
(2) The struts seemed to be about 4mm too long, but with an adjustable pipe wrench (and the hatch propped up) I was able to gently squeeze the strut into place.
(3) attaching the front connection first made it very easy. I read somewhere (Bay 13 maybe?) that it's easier this way and I have to agree.
Since the fix, the hatch swings up pretty fast - so much, in fact, that I clearly recognize the need for new shocks in the back! This is a no-brainer and I wish I had done this two years ago when the hatch started acting up.
(1) the units came with a little metal pin that helps to keep the strut on the ball, I assume it is instead of a snap-ring device inside the receiving cup. I didn't think anything of them and tried to jam the strut onto the ball. I wound up bending the pin before I figured out that they needed to be removed first. But I was able to wiggle it off and bend it back into shape. Make sure you remove these or you'll never get the struts on! Sorry I didn't take some photos but I didn't think anything of it at the time.
(2) The struts seemed to be about 4mm too long, but with an adjustable pipe wrench (and the hatch propped up) I was able to gently squeeze the strut into place.
(3) attaching the front connection first made it very easy. I read somewhere (Bay 13 maybe?) that it's easier this way and I have to agree.
Since the fix, the hatch swings up pretty fast - so much, in fact, that I clearly recognize the need for new shocks in the back! This is a no-brainer and I wish I had done this two years ago when the hatch started acting up.
"He attacked everything in life with a mix of extraordinary genius and naive incompetence, and it was often difficult to tell which was which." - Douglas Adams
1997 855 GLT - R.I.P.
2006 S60R - For ME!
1997 855 GLT - R.I.P.
2006 S60R - For ME!
First, thanks so much for the great information and pics of this process. Without them, I'd have paid $200-300 to fix these. Now on to my predicament. For some reason, when I ordered (by the part number), the struts arrived with the two ends facing the same direction, whereas the originals face opposite directions. This is probably specific to my 2001 V70 Turbo, but I wonder if anyone has any advice on the situation.
Mahalo,
Mike
Mahalo,
Mike
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