2001 V70 XC oil sump

Japedo · Post by **Japedo** » 08 Nov 2009, 08:56

Hey there, I have my XC on jack stands in the garage and am about to remove the oil pan and replace the oil sump o rings. THis will be my first time attempting this procedure, i printed out the procedure in the repair database for the 93 850. Do these steps all apply to the 01 XC as well? Or are their some differences.
Any info or tips would be great.

Curtis

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 08 Nov 2009, 13:58

I think, pretty much the same- make sure you use the anaerobic gasket (you roll it on as a liquid) and don't use RTV or some other gasket or you'll have a leaky mess on your hands. Also spec torque tighten the bolts, from middle to outwards, I believe (whatever the instructions say).

Japedo · Post by **Japedo** » 09 Nov 2009, 08:49

Well I have the job complete now. It was actually alot easier to do on the xc than the "93 non turbo 850 instructions". There was no need to bend any metal tabs on the frame and the powersteering lines wern't in the way at all so they didn't need bent either.
All that was necessary was to onbolt the small oil cooler that is on the back of the pan held by 4 large torx bolts. Then take out the 30 bolts that hold the pan to the block, keeping track which go where for reinstallation. Then the pan tips down on the driverside then the passenger side and it's out. Keep an eye on the oil pump pickup tube and screen when removing the pan. It could be damaged if u wern't carefull.
But with a small electric impact I had the pan off in about 30 mins.

I did find 2 damage o rings, they were the ones on the tube going from the oil filter housing to the oil cooler. They were broken into a few pieces and very brittle. The other o rings seemed ok but were replaced.
The reason I did this was due to a bit of valve train noise noticed under light acceleration, the car sounds fine when it idles. But I'm waiting on fcp for a coil pack right now so I haven had it on the road to see if it's improved. Hopefully the o rings made a difference, but there is no harm in replacing them. Seems alot easier on the xc if anyone is considering the job.

curtis

Japedo · Post by **Japedo** » 09 Nov 2009, 08:57

And thanks for the tip on torqueing the bolts MIJ. I torqued at 25lbs. The sealent I used was the stuff fcp sells, in the blue and white tube, hmm cant remember the name it's a clear like goop and I just spread a moderate amount on the surface "which were cleaned with brake cleaner" and stuck it together. It's only been idiling a few minutes but doesn't leak yet.
I also replaced my plugs and for fun checked the compression with my new gauge, the readings were 190,175,180,180,190 . The car has 149miles on it now but it seems it will be good for another 150 if I look after it.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 09 Nov 2009, 14:27

Glad you got it taken care of- and you got the right stuff! You'll probably be fine- just keep an eye out for leaks...you're suppose to roll that stuff on and it doesn't take much. Good luck!

Japedo · Post by **Japedo** » 10 Nov 2009, 08:57

ya, I just put alot of the goop on like i would if I was putting silicone on a differential cover. I hope haveing to much won't be a problem. I did drive it to work today on the 4 cylinders that are fireing"only a 10 min drive" and there are no apparent oil leaks so far.
Aside from haveing the low oil pressure warning light message appear, I am also keeping my fingers crossed that this might fix my timing over advanced issue, P0014. I have checked and re checked my timing marks which are spot on. As well as testing the CVVT solenoid mechanically and electrically. But my thinking is that without enough oil pressure the solenoid won't function and could cause my P0014 timing over advanced code.
It really is a long shot but if this did somehow solve my problem it could be a good bit of info for ppl with a similar problem.
The CEL has been reset and soon enough I should have an answer. I do find the motor snds a bit smoother with the new o rings in the sump. "even on 4 cylinders"

thanks for wishing me luck MIJ, DIY mechanics deffinently need luck sometimes

Curtis

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 10 Nov 2009, 16:42

Hey Curtis,
You're probably okay but the reason it's rolled on and not gooped on is that whatever oozes out from the mating surfaces into the sump can potentially dislodge and clog things... I agree with your assessment that the correct oil pressure could "cure" your CVVT issue that was present prior to the 0-ring replacement- let's hope that's the case for you.

Japedo · Post by **Japedo** » 10 Nov 2009, 20:41

That does make good sence MIJ, I had never thought about that.
But athough I didn't roll it on I didn't go totally overboard with the amount I put on. I'l update this thread once I have my new coil pack installed and really get to try the car.
I have had the car turned off and on here at work today atleast 6 times and no p0014, but maybe the car needs to be under load to throw that code.
Thanks again,
Curtis

Japedo · Post by **Japedo** » 14 Nov 2009, 04:51

Hello again, I believe I have made some progress! The bosch coil pack arrived from FCP yesterday and is installed, so cylinder 1 is back online.
I took the car for a few good drives yesterday and have not had the P0014 code "camshaft position timing over advanced" return. Which is great news because ive had this code as long as ive had the car!!

I knew the oil sump o rings were a long shot in solving this, but for a couple hours work and very cheap, I wish I had done it long ago. Engine also sounds healthier on startup and under acceleration.
THe bad news is that my check egine did come back on, but in relation to an o2 sencor code and an evap code. I'll mkae another thread so this one doesn't get to confusing.
BUt all in all I am very pleased, after owning the car for a couple years and I was wondering if I was ever going to get this fixed. Im keeping my fingers crossed and i'll update this if the code returns.

Curtis