Sorry was in a pinch for time and on iphone...
The upper engine mount, *stabilizer mount* Which is best when replacing that. I have seen the poly's on FCP and was reccomended to get one, but I have heard they increase the vibration felt in the cab.
http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/p ... ory_id/109
If you are still unsure as to the part i am talking about... follow the link.
Upper Engine Mount
- RobTheModd
- Posts: 1104
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- Year and Model: 98 S70T5M
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If you follow the thread, you'll see that faced with the same dilemma, I decided on a different approach.RobTheModd wrote: The upper engine mount, *stabilizer mount* Which is best when replacing that.
In stead of replacing the part, I used silicone to fill up the two empty sides in that rubber mount.
It's an experiment of which I'm still to see the result, will keep you posted.
850 GLE '96 Wagon, 5-spd.
That's another idea, Valvster.valvster wrote:I'm thinking "Shoe Goo" may work better than silicone, that stuff sticks to anything and should be quite rubbery
cheers...Valvster
But I'm using the silicone as a filler, not glue.
850 GLE '96 Wagon, 5-spd.
Report on my silicone job:
Filling the broken mount with silicone was very easy.
After letting it cure for 24 hours, there is a definite improvement on how the engine feels when under load.
It remains to see how durable is, but I have little doubt about silicone lasting longer than the original rubber.
One footnote:
Because of the amount of silicone required to completely fill the empty spaces, and the cold weather, it didn't cure in a uniform way.
I will redo it when warmer and that time carefully to only pump the silicone gradually, in layers not thicker than 1/4".
That way it will harden faster and completely, I figure.
Comments, anyone?
Filling the broken mount with silicone was very easy.
After letting it cure for 24 hours, there is a definite improvement on how the engine feels when under load.
It remains to see how durable is, but I have little doubt about silicone lasting longer than the original rubber.
One footnote:
Because of the amount of silicone required to completely fill the empty spaces, and the cold weather, it didn't cure in a uniform way.
I will redo it when warmer and that time carefully to only pump the silicone gradually, in layers not thicker than 1/4".
That way it will harden faster and completely, I figure.
Comments, anyone?
850 GLE '96 Wagon, 5-spd.
-
polskamafia mjl
- Posts: 2640
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- Year and Model: 1995 Volvo 854 T-5R
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Can't wait to hear how long it will last. Good job. Did you make a write up or are you planning to when it gets warm again?
'All my money is gone and I have an old Volvo.' - Bamse's Turbo Underpants
Current: 1995 Volvo 850 T-5R Manual - Bringing it back from the brink of death
Previous: 1996 Volvo 850 GLT - Totaled
Current: 1995 Volvo 850 T-5R Manual - Bringing it back from the brink of death
Previous: 1996 Volvo 850 GLT - Totaled
Well, surgeons claim silicone can last a lifetime.polskamafia mjl wrote:Can't wait to hear how long it will last. Good job. Did you make a write up or are you planning to when it gets warm again?
As for a write up, I think I already did.
If you think there is anything I should add, please say so.
850 GLE '96 Wagon, 5-spd.
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januwan
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I would be sceptical. I doubt you selected silicone (RTV, I believe) that matches durometer of the upper engine mount. If hardness is too high you will experience more vibration if it is too low it will fall apart soon.
By filling the voids you completely changed characteristic of the mount.
It was design that way to provide optimal performance. I don't think you can salvage it. I could be mistaken.
By filling the voids you completely changed characteristic of the mount.
It was design that way to provide optimal performance. I don't think you can salvage it. I could be mistaken.
Last edited by januwan on 30 Nov 2009, 00:13, edited 1 time in total.
januwan
You raised very good points, januwan.januwan wrote:I would be sceptical. I doubt you selected silicone (RTV, I believe) that matches durometer of the upper engine mount. If hardness is too high you will experience more vibration if it is too low it will fall apart soon.
By filling the voids you completely changed characteristic of the is mount.
It was design that way to provide optimal performance. I don't think you can salvage it. I could be mistaken.
They were all in my mind when I decided on the silicone experiment, and still are.
But just the fact that the mount is breaking so frequently tells me the design of it isn't as perfect as we tend to believe.
I admit the silicone fill may not replicate entirely the performance of a new, original mount. Then again, would that be such a big loss?
If we agree that the role of the upper mount (stabilizer) is to limit the engine's rocking movement when under load,
while transmitting only a minimum amount of vibration to the firewall, then some other damping materials may be considered.
My choice was silicone because I think it will also address well the durability issue. As our moderator summarized it, I've got nothing to lose.
850 GLE '96 Wagon, 5-spd.
-
polskamafia mjl
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Lol, I just like lots of pictures.kaddo wrote:Well, surgeons claim silicone can last a lifetime.polskamafia mjl wrote:Can't wait to hear how long it will last. Good job. Did you make a write up or are you planning to when it gets warm again?
As for a write up, I think I already did.
If you think there is anything I should add, please say so.
'All my money is gone and I have an old Volvo.' - Bamse's Turbo Underpants
Current: 1995 Volvo 850 T-5R Manual - Bringing it back from the brink of death
Previous: 1996 Volvo 850 GLT - Totaled
Current: 1995 Volvo 850 T-5R Manual - Bringing it back from the brink of death
Previous: 1996 Volvo 850 GLT - Totaled
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