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Front strut replacememt - diy?

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
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Free2drive!
Posts: 231
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Year and Model: 2007 XC90
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Front strut replacememt - diy?

Post by Free2drive! »

Hello MVS

I am about to replace both front struts on my 97 T5 auto. Is it possible to remove the old ones without using a spring compressor? I am not re-using them so don't need to take up the spring tension, is this right?

Haynes says remove wheel
undo 3 nuts in engine bay
undo drop link nuts
remove 2 nuts on wheel hub and remove strut.

Seems easy and I am willing to have ago. The new struts are pre-made and I will offer them up to the car and bolt on. Then get a full camber / alignment adjusted.

Are there any pitfalls to removing the old struts?
Matt
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Ozark Lee
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Post by Ozark Lee »

Is it possible to remove the old ones without using a spring compressor?
NO!

You can however "rent" the compressors at any chain auto parts store.

To be more precise in my answer, you can indeed remove the old struts without a compressor but you cannot rebuild them them with new struts without compressing the springs to take things apart. If you are going to replace the struts you should also replace the spring seats while you are at it. I recommend OEM XC90 spring seats even for an 850 or a 70 series car, they are only a few dollars more and they are much beefier. They fit just fine.

Our cars don't have camber adjustment from the factory, if you are off on camber you will need to buy a camber kit to bring it back in.

...Lee
'94 850 N/A 5 speed
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe
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Free2drive!
Posts: 231
Joined: 24 October 2006
Year and Model: 2007 XC90
Location: At home, at work.
Been thanked: 1 time

Post by Free2drive! »

Thanks, so I can remove the old ones. These are scrap (original from new) so will be scrapped.

The new ones are built up with seats and springs etc so I shoule be able to fit them in by myself.

Do you have a part no for the camber kit? Is it oem or after market?
Thanks
Matt
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850 Turbo1
Posts: 265
Joined: 18 July 2009
Year and Model: 1996 Volvo 850
Location: Toronto (Mississauga) ,Canada

Post by 850 Turbo1 »

This is an excellent guide best of luck!!!
Attachments
So, you want to change your struts but don't want to pay expensive labor? You've come to the right place! Why throw away your hard earned money when you can do it yourself!<br /><br /> This vehicle in the guide is a Volvo 850, but any cars with MacPherson Struts will have similar setups.<br /><br /> <br /><br />Equipments you need:<br /><br />Socket set - It depends on your car, if you can get your hands on a set for both SAE and metric that would be great!<br />Socket wrench<br />Torque Wrench - you need one to properly torque the nuts back to specs. Borrow one or buy one on ebay, I got one for $30 USD, not expensive considering all the things you can do with it.<br />Pipe Wrench or Volvo strut nut tool - to grab hold of the struts and take off the cross shaped strut retaining nut.<br />WD-40/Liquid Wrench - Some of the bolts will be on very tight or rusted.<br />Floor Jack and 2 Jack Stands - Never work on the car not supported by jack stands, you're just looking for trouble if you do!<br />Quality Strut Spring Compressors - Very Important! The springs contain enough energy to kill you. You can usually rent them at you local auto stores for a few days. With good strong compressors this job is not as dangerous as it seems.<br />Repair manual - get a manual for you car, Haynes is a good source for quality manuals.<br />New strut mounts (2, Volvo part # 3546189)<br />Updated: The strut mounts I bought off FCP Groton failed in another 50000kms. However, I do push the car into corners much faster than most of the sane Volvo drivers would do, so your mileage will probably be slightly better.<br /><br />spring seats (2, 8646713)<br />strut-to-steering knuckle nuts and bolts (4 ea. Nuts # 948645 Bolts # 965194 )<br />suspension strut upper mounting nuts (6, 971099)<br /><br />Updated: According to FCP Groton the part numbers are as follows:<br />948645 Strut Mount Lock Nut (6 req) $1.25 OEM Picture<br />965194 Bolts (4 req) $1.50 Genuine Volvo Picture<br />971099 Lock Nut for above bolt (4 req) $2.00<br /><br />6 hours - if its your first time, it will take that long (or even longer, if the bolts are rusted)<br /><br />Buy your parts at fcpgroton.com usually have the cheapest prices for Volvo parts.
So, you want to change your struts but don't want to pay expensive labor? You've come to the right place! Why throw away your hard earned money when you can do it yourself!

This vehicle in the guide is a Volvo 850, but any cars with MacPherson Struts will have similar setups.



Equipments you need:

Socket set - It depends on your car, if you can get your hands on a set for both SAE and metric that would be great!
Socket wrench
Torque Wrench - you need one to properly torque the nuts back to specs. Borrow one or buy one on ebay, I got one for $30 USD, not expensive considering all the things you can do with it.
Pipe Wrench or Volvo strut nut tool - to grab hold of the struts and take off the cross shaped strut retaining nut.
WD-40/Liquid Wrench - Some of the bolts will be on very tight or rusted.
Floor Jack and 2 Jack Stands - Never work on the car not supported by jack stands, you're just looking for trouble if you do!
Quality Strut Spring Compressors - Very Important! The springs contain enough energy to kill you. You can usually rent them at you local auto stores for a few days. With good strong compressors this job is not as dangerous as it seems.
Repair manual - get a manual for you car, Haynes is a good source for quality manuals.
New strut mounts (2, Volvo part # 3546189)
Updated: The strut mounts I bought off FCP Groton failed in another 50000kms. However, I do push the car into corners much faster than most of the sane Volvo drivers would do, so your mileage will probably be slightly better.

spring seats (2, 8646713)
strut-to-steering knuckle nuts and bolts (4 ea. Nuts # 948645 Bolts # 965194 )
suspension strut upper mounting nuts (6, 971099)

Updated: According to FCP Groton the part numbers are as follows:
948645 Strut Mount Lock Nut (6 req) $1.25 OEM Picture
965194 Bolts (4 req) $1.50 Genuine Volvo Picture
971099 Lock Nut for above bolt (4 req) $2.00

6 hours - if its your first time, it will take that long (or even longer, if the bolts are rusted)

Buy your parts at fcpgroton.com usually have the cheapest prices for Volvo parts.
1.JPG (170.54 KiB) Viewed 3059 times
First, jack the front up and support it on jack stands (1 on each side). The jack stands are positioned on the sub frame of the Volvo (check your manual to see where it is safe to put jacks under the car). The sub frame runs around the front end of the car. Block the rear wheels and remove the front wheels.
First, jack the front up and support it on jack stands (1 on each side). The jack stands are positioned on the sub frame of the Volvo (check your manual to see where it is safe to put jacks under the car). The sub frame runs around the front end of the car. Block the rear wheels and remove the front wheels.
2.JPG (209.48 KiB) Viewed 3059 times
Use your WD-40 or Liquid Wrench and spray on the 2 strut-to-steering-knuckle-nuts, ABS bracket screws and Sway Bar connecting link. They are commonly rusted and you will need to spray lots and be patient when taking these nuts out. Be really, really patient....
Use your WD-40 or Liquid Wrench and spray on the 2 strut-to-steering-knuckle-nuts, ABS bracket screws and Sway Bar connecting link. They are commonly rusted and you will need to spray lots and be patient when taking these nuts out. Be really, really patient....
3.JPG (215.1 KiB) Viewed 3059 times
There is supposed to be a Torx hole that you can hold on to in the front of the sway bar link nut and undo the nut. But sometimes the hole is rusted and cannot be used. You can reach behind the nut and use a wrench to hold onto sway bar link bolt to undo the nut. This is the part that took 40% of my total time because it was so hard to grab onto and so rusted.<br /><br />What you see in this picture is the sway bar link bolt, look closely, you see that its not a complete circle behind the bolt. That's where you grab with a wrench.
There is supposed to be a Torx hole that you can hold on to in the front of the sway bar link nut and undo the nut. But sometimes the hole is rusted and cannot be used. You can reach behind the nut and use a wrench to hold onto sway bar link bolt to undo the nut. This is the part that took 40% of my total time because it was so hard to grab onto and so rusted.

What you see in this picture is the sway bar link bolt, look closely, you see that its not a complete circle behind the bolt. That's where you grab with a wrench.
4.JPG (182.69 KiB) Viewed 3059 times
Use the floor jack the support the suspension by jacking up the A-arm.<br /><br />Undo the bottom 2 strut-to-steering-knuckle-nuts and the 3 nuts holding the strut in place inside the engine compartment. It is also a good idea to break the Strut mounting nut (the big one in the middle of the strut) free before you take the strut off the car. <br /><br />Updated: It was suggested that using a torque wrench as a breaker bar is not a good idea if you like to keep your torque wrench accurate and serviceable for a long time.<br /><br />Once you have all the nuts off, maneuver the strut out from the bottom (be careful NOT to break the ABS cable, it will get in the way and you're better off to have help from someone.) The strut assembly is quite heavy (about 30 lbs) but if I can do it myself, so can you.
Use the floor jack the support the suspension by jacking up the A-arm.

Undo the bottom 2 strut-to-steering-knuckle-nuts and the 3 nuts holding the strut in place inside the engine compartment. It is also a good idea to break the Strut mounting nut (the big one in the middle of the strut) free before you take the strut off the car.

Updated: It was suggested that using a torque wrench as a breaker bar is not a good idea if you like to keep your torque wrench accurate and serviceable for a long time.

Once you have all the nuts off, maneuver the strut out from the bottom (be careful NOT to break the ABS cable, it will get in the way and you're better off to have help from someone.) The strut assembly is quite heavy (about 30 lbs) but if I can do it myself, so can you.
5.JPG (183.1 KiB) Viewed 3059 times
Do NOT unscrew the top retaining nut or the cross shaped retaining nut. Or else, the spring will fly right out and cause some serious damage. Mount the spring compressor according to its instructions and compress the spring. For spring compressors like the ones shown, put them 180 degrees across and turn both sides evenly. Compress until the spring can wiggle between the spring seat and the bottom of the strut.
Do NOT unscrew the top retaining nut or the cross shaped retaining nut. Or else, the spring will fly right out and cause some serious damage. Mount the spring compressor according to its instructions and compress the spring. For spring compressors like the ones shown, put them 180 degrees across and turn both sides evenly. Compress until the spring can wiggle between the spring seat and the bottom of the strut.
6.JPG (175.82 KiB) Viewed 3059 times
Mark the spring so you won't put them back in upside down. <br /><br />Once you can wiggle the spring, it is now safe to undo the strut retaining nut, take out the special washer, undo the cross shaped retaining nut with a pipe wrench, and take out the strut bearing mount and spring seat. <br /><br />The manual said inspect for damage and replace as needed. But I say, if your car have more than 60000 miles, just replace them, they're gonna die soon anyway. Also the dust boot and cap might be cracked, replace those if you need to. Mine are fine, so I just reused them.
Mark the spring so you won't put them back in upside down.

Once you can wiggle the spring, it is now safe to undo the strut retaining nut, take out the special washer, undo the cross shaped retaining nut with a pipe wrench, and take out the strut bearing mount and spring seat.

The manual said inspect for damage and replace as needed. But I say, if your car have more than 60000 miles, just replace them, they're gonna die soon anyway. Also the dust boot and cap might be cracked, replace those if you need to. Mine are fine, so I just reused them.
7.JPG (166.55 KiB) Viewed 3059 times
Compress the spring to 11.81 inches long from top to bottom (this is for a Volvo 850, refer to your own manual to see your specs) and put it on your new strut. <br /><br />I replaced mine with Koni Sports Adjustable Struts. I can tell you they're firm and comfortable, and being adjustable is just so much fun!<br /><br />Put back the spring seat, the cross shaped retaining nut (to 50 ft/lbs, or just as tight as you can with your pipe wrench, you don't want this to fall off) Put in the strut bearing mount and the washer, then put on the strut retaining nut (buy a new one) and tighten to 50 ft/lbs with your torque wrench.
Compress the spring to 11.81 inches long from top to bottom (this is for a Volvo 850, refer to your own manual to see your specs) and put it on your new strut.

I replaced mine with Koni Sports Adjustable Struts. I can tell you they're firm and comfortable, and being adjustable is just so much fun!

Put back the spring seat, the cross shaped retaining nut (to 50 ft/lbs, or just as tight as you can with your pipe wrench, you don't want this to fall off) Put in the strut bearing mount and the washer, then put on the strut retaining nut (buy a new one) and tighten to 50 ft/lbs with your torque wrench.
7.JPG (166.55 KiB) Viewed 3059 times
Make sure your spring isn't upside down. Make sure the spring is sitting in the grove at the bottom and seated properly in the spring seat. When everything is in place, start uncompressing the spring.
Make sure your spring isn't upside down. Make sure the spring is sitting in the grove at the bottom and seated properly in the spring seat. When everything is in place, start uncompressing the spring.
8.JPG (174.01 KiB) Viewed 3059 times
Maneuver the strut back into where is belongs from under the wheel well. (is it just me or is the rust growing on the brake disc? It took me so long to get to this part!) Put in the lower retaining nuts and bolts (use new ones) and tighten the sway bar link nut (pain in the a$$). Don't forget the ABS cable.
Maneuver the strut back into where is belongs from under the wheel well. (is it just me or is the rust growing on the brake disc? It took me so long to get to this part!) Put in the lower retaining nuts and bolts (use new ones) and tighten the sway bar link nut (pain in the a$$). Don't forget the ABS cable.
9.JPG (197.63 KiB) Viewed 3059 times
Jack the suspension up and tighten the 3 upper mounting nuts (21 ft/lbs) to secure the suspension in place. Use new nuts for that too. When you're done it should look like this and everything should be secured in place. Hopefully....<br /><br />You're all DONE!! YAY! Except that you have 1 more side to do you're all done! Hehe.<br /><br />Take a short drive after you're ALL done. Drive around the block to see if there is anything wrong. Remember to take the car in for alignment as soon as possible. You HAVE to do this because the alignment is now wrong. Don't forget about this!<br /><br />Now you can go brag about this to your friends and tell them &quot;I changed the struts on my car, piece of cake!&quot; Don't forget to return whatever you have rented!
Jack the suspension up and tighten the 3 upper mounting nuts (21 ft/lbs) to secure the suspension in place. Use new nuts for that too. When you're done it should look like this and everything should be secured in place. Hopefully....

You're all DONE!! YAY! Except that you have 1 more side to do you're all done! Hehe.

Take a short drive after you're ALL done. Drive around the block to see if there is anything wrong. Remember to take the car in for alignment as soon as possible. You HAVE to do this because the alignment is now wrong. Don't forget about this!

Now you can go brag about this to your friends and tell them "I changed the struts on my car, piece of cake!" Don't forget to return whatever you have rented!
10.JPG (211.38 KiB) Viewed 3059 times
1996 850 T5 Sedan
1996 850 T5 Platinum Edition Wagon
--Always Learning--MB--
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850 Turbo1
Posts: 265
Joined: 18 July 2009
Year and Model: 1996 Volvo 850
Location: Toronto (Mississauga) ,Canada

Post by 850 Turbo1 »

Sorry guys ...but you need to start reading from the end of the post upwards...

Seems the site attaches attachments in a backwards order!

Here is the original link if anyone is interested!

http://members.shaw.ca/heeeeee/strut/
1996 850 T5 Sedan
1996 850 T5 Platinum Edition Wagon
--Always Learning--MB--
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Ozark Lee
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Post by Ozark Lee »

Free2drive! wrote:Thanks, so I can remove the old ones. These are scrap (original from new) so will be scrapped.

The new ones are built up with seats and springs etc so I shoule be able to fit them in by myself.

Do you have a part no for the camber kit? Is it oem or after market?
Thanks
Matt
I have never seen them come that way for a Volvo, for a Buick, yes, but not for a Volvo.

Good luck with this and be careful, you can get hurt real bad if you have an incident with the springs.

The camber kits come as both OEM and after market. Either one is OK.

...Lee
'94 850 N/A 5 speed
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe
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Free2drive!
Posts: 231
Joined: 24 October 2006
Year and Model: 2007 XC90
Location: At home, at work.
Been thanked: 1 time

Post by Free2drive! »

Ozark Lee wrote:
Free2drive! wrote:Thanks, so I can remove the old ones. These are scrap (original from new) so will be scrapped.

The new ones are built up with seats and springs etc so I shoule be able to fit them in by myself.

Do you have a part no for the camber kit? Is it oem or after market?
Thanks
Matt
I have never seen them come that way for a Volvo, for a Buick, yes, but not for a Volvo.

Good luck with this and be careful, you can get hurt real bad if you have an incident with the springs.

The camber kits come as both OEM and after market. Either one is OK.

...Lee
Thanks, Matt.
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Free2drive!
Posts: 231
Joined: 24 October 2006
Year and Model: 2007 XC90
Location: At home, at work.
Been thanked: 1 time

Post by Free2drive! »

850 Turbo1 wrote:Sorry guys ...but you need to start reading from the end of the post upwards...

Seems the site attaches attachments in a backwards order!

Here is the original link if anyone is interested!

http://members.shaw.ca/heeeeee/strut/
Thank you very much for the post, Matt.
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850 Turbo1
Posts: 265
Joined: 18 July 2009
Year and Model: 1996 Volvo 850
Location: Toronto (Mississauga) ,Canada

Post by 850 Turbo1 »

Your very welcome..I hope it helps you :lol: :lol: !!!
Last edited by 850 Turbo1 on 06 Dec 2009, 13:50, edited 1 time in total.
1996 850 T5 Sedan
1996 850 T5 Platinum Edition Wagon
--Always Learning--MB--
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IVIUSTANG
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Location: Saskatchewan. Canada
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Post by IVIUSTANG »

I just did my spring seats so I can comment on this. It was my first time ever. First, like it has been stated springs can kill you blah blah blah, yes you have to compress them and lock the compressor on for safety.

That being said, it took me 30 minutes per side, the biggest slow down was the amount of turning required for the spring compressor, so much hard work. Other than the compressor bit it is a breeze for the DIY'er. A total of 6 bolts/nuts to remove to have your whole assembly out!(as one piece)

- Jesse
1998 S70 T5 SE 290,000 KM sideswiped total loss(Sweet ride!)
2007 S60 2.5T loaded 63,000 KM SOLD!
2006 XC70 350,000 KM, 2" BadSwede lift kit, steel skidplate, Hilton Stage 1 tune, big burly tires :D
2008 S80 V8 245,000 KM SOLD!
2015 V60 T5 Premier+ 98,000KM
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