940 T 1994 Hard Start Cold-Rough Idle-Cold weather only

Z Volvo · Post by **Z Volvo** » 06 Dec 2009, 19:53

This issue first appeared last spring when the Temps were below 40F. I had almost forgotten about it and now we have had our first really cool night below 40F and it has reared its ugly head.
When initially starting the car it is extremely bad,kicking and sputtering and sounds like several cylinders are going to come out the exhaust.
It can take several attempts to get it to stay "running" an optimistic term.
After a minute or so it will smooth out and then run fine. It only happens first time in the morning but we have not had consistently cold weather for extended periods yet. In asking my wife if it happens at the end of her work day after the car has been sitting outdoors she says she has not had any problems yet.
Again this has only appeared in temperatures below 40F.
I have not yet looked to see if any codes are up but I guess that is the next step.

Thanks for any suggestions and Help.

Post by **billofdurham** » 07 Dec 2009, 11:13

Here are some things to check when you have problems with a cold engine.

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It is recommended that a check for fault codes is done first as some of the above may be superfluous if codes are found.

Bill.

Oldrfguy · Post by **Oldrfguy** » 09 Dec 2009, 14:56

of course check codes, but An easy fix if problem. My first volvo just didn't like to start in the cold until I switched to light oil in the fall. 5w something depending on mileage. that was many years ago-several vehicles later and have done it religiously. My sister joined the volvo church a few years ago and called with same problem. Change the oil- bingo. Her question, why a car made in a country with lots of snow-answer who cares? My theory is to start properly it needs a little higher RPM, which is what the thinner oil gives it.
1993 940

Z Volvo · Post by **Z Volvo** » 09 Dec 2009, 17:25

Thank you for your prompt and helpful replies. I noted that when I started the car these past two days what I have been doing ( my wife gets in turns key and tries to drive) is to turn the key and wait until I hear the fuel fuel pump finish ramping up then starting the car. I have had better success in getting the car to stay running this way, however it still is not smooth initially and billows a huge grey cloud and I ended up smelling like I bathed in gas. It lasts less than a minute and then smooths out and seems to run normally,during this period as it is smoothing out the idle gets faster(erratic) then drops abruptly to where it usually sits at warm engine speed, could it be a vacuum leak of some type and would spraying carb cleaner around the manifold help detect same? I have been meaning to replace the vacuum lines since they are still mostly original and I hesitate to start yanking on them without having backup.

About the oil I run a 5-30 synthetic blend and not being Calgary or Indiana for that matter this is a relatively recent development so I doubt that viscosity is the issue but I Thank You for the reply it is always good information to keep for future reference. We have had so much rain this year I am considering a Volvo marine with duplex drive but I guess that would initiate a whole new set of headaches.

I truly appreciate the input.

Thanks again and as I get my lazy @$$ out into the garage and work I will update you if I have any success or disasters. It will probably take some time since I am not that motivated to do this and she can actually walk to work. First a sherry a cigar and the codes.

Post by **billofdurham** » 10 Dec 2009, 11:29

Sherry and cigar finished? Then we'll begin.

Spraying carb cleaner or just plain water onto the inlet manifold will help find any intake leak.

Some of the symptoms in your last post would lead me to suspect a problem with the in-tank pump. If the in-tank pump is inoperative, you'll have fuel starvation symptoms. These may include hard starting, louder than normal main fuel pump noise and a loss of power under load. To check the operation of the pre-pump without removing it from the tank, locate the pre-pump fuse, #11. Remove this fuse with the car idling. You should be able to detect increased noise from the main pump and decreased vibration of the fuel tank itself. Another way to check that the in-tank pump is working is to remove the filler cap and have someone switch on the ignition while you listen for the pump to kick in.

Bill.