Molyslip and Ceramic Oil

[bright]

The oils produced today are vastly superior to the oils produced when your car was new.

I use Advance Auto's motor oil without thinking twice. Even though it is the house brand (generic) it is many generations improved over what Volvo and the general public had in the 1990's. I also point out that generic brands are produced by the same name brand oil companies. It allows them to sell more oil while not having to "lessen" the perception of the quality of the name brand and keep prices higher.

The Recipe for my 960:

Basic oil filter by Purolator Oil Filter (part L14670) $3.49
Advance Auto 10W/30W (1 Gallon) $9.49
Advance Auto 10W/30W (2 Quarts x $2.79) $5.58
Total= $18.56

Name Brand (Penzoil Oil and Fram Filter)
Basic Fram Filter $5.59
Penzoil 10W/30W (1 gallon) $14.79
Penzoil 10W/30W (2 quarts) $7.98
Total= $28.16
So (Name Brand - Generic)
($28.16 - $18.56) = $9.60 saved per oil change

I buy the gallon containers for 2 reasons
1) They are just a little bit cheaper
2) They contain less overall plastic, so I pollute less
3) put savings towards new A/C compressor

Let reason and logic guide you.

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The only uber oils I would recommend are Royal Purple and AMSOIL. They are full on racing oils and they will do as advertise. And I do mean racing, as in autocross, rally, drag, etc. Not the weekend warrior.

Out of the dozens of clunkers I have dealt with only one actually had a bad main bearing. And another had a bad lifter. That's it. Everything else that killed a car had nothing to do with the traditional engine parts, just accessories (power steering racks are a popular one.)

Best of luck,
Bright

[IVIUSTANG]

I signed up today to be an Amsoil preferred customer, the Canadian website waved the $15 fee and also told me due to the higher dollar that Canadians now pay 8% off the wholesale prices. I can get their best stuff for less than $8 per litre shipped, I plan on extending my oil change interval to offset the cost, from 5000KM to 12000KM with a UOA test following. Synthetic is worth it to me because my car still starts in -40C weather. I will do a UOA with the MOS2 added as well. Cleanliness is king, but so is lubrication.

- Jesse

[marginal]

Synthetic is worth it to me because my car still starts in -40C weather. - Jesse

I don't think this has anything to do with synthetic VS mineral.
It has rather to do with oil viscosity ...
BTW, I bought the Moly from ebay ...

[IVIUSTANG]

5w30 synthetic vs 5w30 mineral. The synthetic is much more free flowing at -40C even thought the viscosity is rated the same(synthetic retains it through a wider temperature range).

- Jesse

[marginal]

I didn't know that ...

[marginal]

I am using synthetis oils all the way, anyways ...

[bright]

The weight of an oil is the weight of an oil.

Its viscosity describes the oil flow rate between temperature ranges.

It is not dependent on synthetic versus non-synthetic. (Many non-synthetics are a blend between a natural base and synthetic base anyways.)

Cars and trucks have started for many. many decades in horribly cold weather before synthetics entered the general public. Keep in mind that these cars are from the Arctic circle. If your car won't start in cold weather you have other problems. I'm not sure what you mean by 'not starting' but I would guess that it takes longer for the engine to catch and purr to life.

Dramatically extending the range between oil changes because you use synthetic doesn't make a great deal of sense. One of the primary functions of oil is to clean the crankcase. That is, suspend the small particulates in the oil itself. All oils are detergent rated today for that reason. So going well beyond the top limit only accumulates extra sludge in the oil.

Modern cars have a viscosity sensor that tells you when the oil is ready to leave the party. It is no longer necessary to change your oil on a schedule. Let the computer guide you if your Volvo is so equipped.

And finally, I cringe every time I walk into a parts store and someone is selling a synthetic to a kid. They make it sound like pixie dust that'll give you better mpg and last forever.

[IVIUSTANG]

Look at the basic science behind this, picture two jugs of oil sitting outside in 40C; one of dino 5w30 and one of 5w30 synthetic, the difference in viscosity at this temperature is immense(I have tried it). This not only allows the engine to crank alot better but the oil lubricates much quicker as well. Not starting doesn't always indicate a mechanical problem with the vehicle. As far as testing in the Arctic circle, we get temperatures every bit as cold as that here although our averages our much higher. I work outside and maintain a fleet of Police vehicles, the majority of which will not start with their dino oil in this temperature without the block heater being plugged in. I think my experience does conclude that synthetic is a magical pixie dust at these temperatures. Now if we talk about diesels then my argument gets ALOT stronger yet. I have been to Tampa, it's where all the Canadian snowbirds flock to; come experience winter and become a believer in synthetics.

- Jesse

[bright]

Yes, I have lived in the Arctic as well. It is very cold. Your face stings when you step outside and taking a shower feels like your skin is distinctively uncomfortable. And Volvo's are designed in Sweden, which lies primarily above the Arctic circle. Where I currently live isn't important in this argument and really is a form of ad hominem attack.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ad_hominem

Your machines do not start with bare metal to metal contact. There is always a bit of oil hanging around on the surface.

Oil filters have a valve that prevents reverse flow. This leaves plenty of oil ready to jump out of the oil galleys and lube away. If anything the cold would keep the oil gooey and stuck around the contact surfaces.

You should know this

In regards to your pour test, we have a saying in science:
Anecdotal evidence is not evidence.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anecdotal_evidence

That is, the experience of one does not provide proof. It takes many, many experiments to make a strong case. And even then you must prove that your idea stands up against critiques. Otherwise it is just a testimonial.

Wikipedia does have an interesting article oil:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil

I didn't know that "W" stands for winter pour rate, not weight. It's a test in which a certain amount of oil will pour through a certain sized hole at a certain temperature with "X" amount of pressure.

And yes, there is a section on synthetics but no citation was given. That makes it a testimony of an editor.

Again, if synthetics were all that you would find them mandated for all cars. They would be required by warranty. But they aren't. It's the same way oil companies still say that you should change your oil every 3,000 miles. That's definitely no longer true. But they like it, it makes them loads of cash.

And your cars are not starting for other reasons. A car completely devoid of oil will happily jump to life and seize up in a minute or so. The "Cash for Clunkers" was a great example. When a car was traded in it had to be destroyed. This was done by draining the oil and then pouring in a thin oil full of ceramic particles (think quartz sand). It took around 2-5 minutes for each car/truck to give up its ghost.

[marginal]

Dramatically extending the range between oil changes because you use synthetic doesn't make a great deal of sense. One of the primary functions of oil is to clean the crankcase. That is, suspend the small particulates in the oil itself. All oils are detergent rated today for that reason. So going well beyond the top limit only accumulates extra sludge in the oil.

As long as I am concerned, synthetic oil can last forever, there can be no modification of its structure..
The only problem is the oil filter that gets clogged and needs replacement.