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'95 850 T5:- Engine coolant temperature sensor

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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Volgrrr
Posts: 246
Joined: 13 September 2006
Year and Model: '95 T5 wagon
Location: Near Ararat, Victoria, Australia

'95 850 T5:- Engine coolant temperature sensor

Post by Volgrrr »

I'm trying to establish if the instrument panel temperature gauge will appear to work normally if the engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT) is faulty.

My temperature gauge seems to operate O.K, but I suspect the ECT is not sending a correct signal to the engine management system, which gives the engine an extremely rich mixture (initially about 6 m.p.g on computer read out) until the engine is well warmed up (then improves to 32+ m.p.g). The vehicle averages over 30 m.p.g over a full tank of mixed city/highway driving.

Or am I barking up the wrong tree?

What's the go - any ideas out there?
There are only two types of car owners - those who own Volvos and those who wish they did.

jblackburn
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Post by jblackburn »

About how long does it take your car to warm up to "operating temperature"?

In my case, the ECT displayed temperature correctly (I think), but it would give it such a rich mixture when the car was trying to start when the engine was warm it would blow out black smoke, or crank a LOT before starting.

A rich mixture on a cold engine is normal - I have never watched the trip computer in the mornings, but if you are using so much gas that it smells like rotten eggs or you're blowing unburned fuel out the exhaust, you may as well change the sensor.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!

polskamafia mjl
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Post by polskamafia mjl »

Once the engine reaches operating temp. should it stay that way regardless of the outside conditions? Usually when I drive the car, it warms up to the 5 or 4 O'clock position. If I stop at a traffic light or something the temp gets up to around the 3 O'clock position. Once I start moving again the temp will drop again to a bit below the 3 O'clock position. Is that normal or does that sound like a bad T-stat and/or Engine Temp. Sensor.
'All my money is gone and I have an old Volvo.' - Bamse's Turbo Underpants

Current: 1995 Volvo 850 T-5R Manual - Bringing it back from the brink of death
Previous: 1996 Volvo 850 GLT - Totaled

jblackburn
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Post by jblackburn »

You've got a bad t-stat that's stuck open. It should warm up to and remain at the 3:00 position.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!

polskamafia mjl
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Post by polskamafia mjl »

Ok, thanks a lot. One more question, can the engine be damaged if I let this go? I'm planning on doing it right away, but it's been like this all winter and I wanted to know if there could be any engine damage.
'All my money is gone and I have an old Volvo.' - Bamse's Turbo Underpants

Current: 1995 Volvo 850 T-5R Manual - Bringing it back from the brink of death
Previous: 1996 Volvo 850 GLT - Totaled

jblackburn
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Post by jblackburn »

No damage - it just eats more gas trying to warm up, and I suspect it also kills the ECT sensor with it, which you should go ahead and replace anyway while you're under there. Get some new t-stat housing screws. Its a good time to do a coolant flush if it hasn't been done recently, and I replaced both my radiator hoses.

I understand not wanting to work on it in the cold, I tried to do my PCV system a few days ago, and it took me 2 days because my hands got so cold and I kept dropping things. But! You'll have heat in the mornings much quicker :mrgreen:
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!

polskamafia mjl
Posts: 2640
Joined: 1 April 2009
Year and Model: 1995 Volvo 854 T-5R
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Post by polskamafia mjl »

Haha, tell me about it. I got 4 new rotors, pads all around, and stainless steel brake hoses for Christmas. I put those on in the cold and it sucked. Took me 2 days and I only managed to get the front end done. haha Thanks for your help.
'All my money is gone and I have an old Volvo.' - Bamse's Turbo Underpants

Current: 1995 Volvo 850 T-5R Manual - Bringing it back from the brink of death
Previous: 1996 Volvo 850 GLT - Totaled

Volgrrr
Posts: 246
Joined: 13 September 2006
Year and Model: '95 T5 wagon
Location: Near Ararat, Victoria, Australia

Post by Volgrrr »

jablackburn wrote:About how long does it take your car to warm up to "operating temperature"?
I would guess about 4 to 5 minutes as I've never actually timed it but the temperature gauge needle steadily rises to the 3 o'clock position and remains there without any deviation.
In my case, the ECT displayed temperature correctly (I think), but it would give it such a rich mixture when the car was trying to start when the engine was warm it would blow out black smoke, or crank a LOT before starting.
I noticed black smoke in the rear vision mirror swirling out of the exhaust when I took it out for a test drive yesterday.

So, I put my foot flat down and, after some slight hesitation, the T5 took off with the rev counter quickly climbing to nearly 6000 r.p.m. (in either 2 or 3rd gear, I'm not sure; but when I took my foot off the accelerator she immediately changed up to 4th and the road speed at that time was about 120 k.p.h).

It seemed to clear something out because after the initial hesitation the wagon took off and after a short period the black smoke seemed to disappear (it might have disappeared due to the full-on acceleration) however, the black smoke appeared to have ceased by the time I got back home (test drive about 5 miles).
A rich mixture on a cold engine is normal - I have never watched the trip computer in the mornings, but if you are using so much gas that it smells like rotten eggs or you're blowing unburned fuel out the exhaust, you may as well change the sensor.
No smell, but as I've stated above there was black smoke (unburned fuel) coming out the exhaust for a while.

I think it would make sense to go ahead and change the ECT sensor because, if nothing else, it will eliminate a suspect area.
There are only two types of car owners - those who own Volvos and those who wish they did.

jblackburn
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Post by jblackburn »

Sounds like a good plan to me! :mrgreen: May as well change out the thermostat while you're in there - they're cheap anyway!
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!

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