Hello again...
Have another problem now...I feel so stupid about this...need help please...
I noticed a small gas leak on the 4th fuel pressure regulator because few days ago I mistakenly took the 2 bolts out of the fuel presure regulator plate to get the lower plate off to reach the torx bolt on the thermostat housing that I was trying to open to replace the thermostat and sensor.(found out that I dont need to as the lower plate can just be taken off by hand with bit of pressure)
Ok short story why it was leaking gas...I put the 2 bolts back...but maybe it wasnt tight enough as I did not think that 2 bolts can do anything important...and I started the engine...the gas/petrol squirted out of the 4th amd 5th fuel regulator. I was a bit panic and I turned off the engine quickly after that. Lambda light went on.
I tightened the bolt and I started the car...ok...no more squirts...was happy. But then I've been driving the car for 2 days after that incident (found another problem with clogged pcv) to work and I noticed an awful smell. Thought that is fume from the puffing dipstick (I left it open as suggested by Ozark Lee to relieve extra gas pressure) but when I took a closer look, the 4th fuel regulator pressure is still leaking fuel/gas a little bit like a bad runny nose. I took the 2 bolts out again and pull the fuel regulator out to see if its stuck or something or the seal is broken...I saw nothing ugly and I put them back (cleaned them first, the tip that goes into the engine, with a rag dampened with wd40)
Short story, I tightened the bolt, now this time I thought I have to tighten the bolt real real tight...and the bolt snapped! The left one, the right one is ok...
How do I get the snapped bolt bit out??? I started the engine and at least I am happy to see there is no leaking gas anymore, maybe it was just the position of the regulator. Was gonna try drilling the bit out but I am afraid to crack the manifold or scrap the thread.
Can I live with one bolt on the right only if I cant take the bit out?
I am so embarrassed about this...what a noob.
Thanks...
Ok another problem...big one this time...and stupid
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850 Turbo1
- Posts: 265
- Joined: 18 July 2009
- Year and Model: 1996 Volvo 850
- Location: Toronto (Mississauga) ,Canada
I'm no authority on this....but I've had similar situations before...and I've always been told to drill the broken part out...and I KNOW this is tricky as hell...GOD I HATE these things...over tightening kills...recently overtightened my radiator petcock...and the plastic petcock broke inside the radiator(aftermarket Spectra)...wasn't able to find a petcock at ALL---cost me a day of running around in another car!!!!!!
1996 850 T5 Sedan
1996 850 T5 Platinum Edition Wagon
--Always Learning--MB--
1996 850 T5 Platinum Edition Wagon
--Always Learning--MB--
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vegasjetskier
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If you can remove the part to get clearance and enough of the bolt is left protruding, you might be able to remove it with vicegrips.Ivans wrote:How do I get the snapped bolt bit out???
If that won't work, you can try an EZ-Out or similar bolt removal tool (available at Sears and other stores).
.
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FCPEURO
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You really have three options here and I would try them in this order.
1) See if you can heat the bolt with a torch or let it sit overnight covered in PBlaster and then try to remove it with a wrench or vice grips.
2) Same process as above but with an EZ Out instead of the wrench.
3) If all else fails, drill it out with a very high quality drill bit. Once it is out, get yourself a new bolt.
1) See if you can heat the bolt with a torch or let it sit overnight covered in PBlaster and then try to remove it with a wrench or vice grips.
2) Same process as above but with an EZ Out instead of the wrench.
3) If all else fails, drill it out with a very high quality drill bit. Once it is out, get yourself a new bolt.
Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately, the stud bit does not stick out otherwise I would ve got it with a vicegrip.
What is Pblaster and ezout? Will try to find them here. We don't have sears here in Australia. And how do u torch the bolt without burning the fuel regulator plate? With a solder? Would that be hot enough?
And can I drive the car with only 1 bolt tightened (the right one)
Now I have another problem. The rpm is stuck on 1.5 and can't get down.....:'(
What is Pblaster and ezout? Will try to find them here. We don't have sears here in Australia. And how do u torch the bolt without burning the fuel regulator plate? With a solder? Would that be hot enough?
And can I drive the car with only 1 bolt tightened (the right one)
Now I have another problem. The rpm is stuck on 1.5 and can't get down.....:'(
06 V70
95 850 se
95 850 se
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850 Turbo1
- Posts: 265
- Joined: 18 July 2009
- Year and Model: 1996 Volvo 850
- Location: Toronto (Mississauga) ,Canada
Ivans wrote:Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately, the stud bit does not stick out otherwise I would ve got it with a vicegrip.
What is Pblaster and ezout? Will try to find them here. We don't have sears here in Australia. And how do u torch the bolt without burning the fuel regulator plate? With a solder? Would that be hot enough?
And can I drive the car with only 1 bolt tightened (the right one)
Now I have another problem. The rpm is stuck on 1.5 and can't get down.....:'(
PB Blaster is almost like WD-40(on steroids)..if you know what that is...its like a type of oil which will help loosen things up..sorry but can't help with the other questions
1996 850 T5 Sedan
1996 850 T5 Platinum Edition Wagon
--Always Learning--MB--
1996 850 T5 Platinum Edition Wagon
--Always Learning--MB--
Thanks so much. I know wd 40. I will find something stronger than wd 40 maybe my local auto store has 1.850 Turbo1 wrote:Ivans wrote:Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately, the stud bit does not stick out otherwise I would ve got it with a vicegrip.
What is Pblaster and ezout? Will try to find them here. We don't have sears here in Australia. And how do u torch the bolt without burning the fuel regulator plate? With a solder? Would that be hot enough?
And can I drive the car with only 1 bolt tightened (the right one)
Now I have another problem. The rpm is stuck on 1.5 and can't get down.....:'(
PB Blaster is almost like WD-40(on steroids)..if you know what that is...its like a type of oil which will help loosen things up..sorry but can't help with the other questions![]()
06 V70
95 850 se
95 850 se
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polskamafia mjl
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If you can't find PBlaster try asking for a strong penetrating oil.
'All my money is gone and I have an old Volvo.' - Bamse's Turbo Underpants
Current: 1995 Volvo 850 T-5R Manual - Bringing it back from the brink of death
Previous: 1996 Volvo 850 GLT - Totaled
Current: 1995 Volvo 850 T-5R Manual - Bringing it back from the brink of death
Previous: 1996 Volvo 850 GLT - Totaled
Thanks. Will look around I am sure there's something like that here.polskamafia mjl wrote:If you can't find PBlaster try asking for a strong penetrating oil.
By the way, I am looking to try using carb or intake cleaner. Maybe the egr valve is stuck opened cause of carbon built up. Does anyone know which vacuum line we can use to suck the liquid in? I can take off the vacuum hose that connects from the side of the airbox to the idle motor. Is this vacuum line ok to be used? The other vac lines are clamped tightly I don't know how to open the clamps. Was gonna try with screw driver to loosen the clamp but afraid I will rapture the rubber hose.
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95 850 se
95 850 se
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vegasjetskier
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An EZ-out is a screw extraction tool. You can buy them on Amazon or from Sears.com: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10153 ... tor&vName=
.
SOLD - 2001 Volvo S80 T6: Mobil 1 Oil & Synthetic ATF, Brake Performance drilled and slotted front rotors, Akebono Euro Ceramic pads and Yokohama Avid V4S tires, 91K miles.
Help this site: Amazon.com link
SOLD - 2001 Volvo S80 T6: Mobil 1 Oil & Synthetic ATF, Brake Performance drilled and slotted front rotors, Akebono Euro Ceramic pads and Yokohama Avid V4S tires, 91K miles.
Help this site: Amazon.com link
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