P0410 Secondary Air Injection System Topic is solved

Rorton · Post by **Rorton** » 22 Nov 2004, 20:05

My '97 850 GLT is giving a P0410 Secondary Air Injection System
code. Can anyone suggest what the next step may be? (please don't say 'the dealership!')

It doesn't seem to be affecting the cars performance in any way other than the exhaust smells a little rich.

Thanks!

aj98s70 · Post by **aj98s70** » 24 Nov 2004, 13:23

Rorton,
I had this same issue with my 98 s70. It doesnt seem to be a driveability issue - but the car will fail emissions. It is an expensive fix - about US$400 (pump+valve) in parts and $150 in labor.

Here is some more info on this :

http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/index.htm?id=804556

HTH,
-aj98s70

Guest · Post by **Guest** » 27 Feb 2005, 13:42

You were right aj98s70. Turns out the valve has allowed water into the pump which was saturated when it was removed. The assembly is located below the battery and pump + valve was almost $400! I had to get this fixed due to emissions testing, otherwise I wouldn't have bothered since there is no performance issue.

rorton

AJU · Post by **AJU** » 28 Feb 2005, 08:00

If you don't want to fix it, you don't have to. The CEL will stay off for anywhere between 300 - 1000 miles in my experience and if your car is good an hot when you bring it in for inspection there's no reason for it to fail (unless the check engine light is on). The air pump only helps heat the cat up at cold start, so if you are at operating temp it's not doing anything.

Mine has been out of commission for a few months now and I passed emissions in NY with flying colors.

No drivability implications either. The only concern is that I have heard fuel trim is cut if the check engine light is on, so you may want to keep reseting the light to avoid running rich/lean for too long.

fatboy · Post by **fatboy** » 06 Jan 2010, 13:38

hei guys, my 98 volvo came up with the same code and it says secondary air injection system mulfunction (P0401)

Are you telling me reset the light and take it to the inspection? I prefer that rather than fixing this nut. it doesnt effect any running or driving performance.

I will take reset and take it for inspection hoping it will pass.

But I do want to know where to look up for fixing, where is this pump and valve located.

Post by **jblackburn** » 06 Jan 2010, 13:47

It should pass as long as the light remains off. Reset it, then take it immediately and get it inspected before the car has a chance to think twice. Get it good & hot before you take it in and don't do a lot of idling.

It's located under the battery tray at the drivers side of the engine compartment. you have to remove that to get it out.

When you do decide to replace it - I had to fix mine to pass inspection because it kept coming up randomly whenever it felt like it - the light came on while they were doing the inspection on mine, and it failed. You can retrofit and use a VW air pump and save yourself a bit of money. Or you can choose to keep the Volvo one for simplicity. Make SURE you order a new check valve.

Here is a great tutorial for replacing it:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/2009/1 ... ial-volvo/

And how to use the VW one: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 55&start=0

fatboy · Post by **fatboy** » 06 Jan 2010, 14:24

thanks Jablackburn

I have seen this baby under the tray

I will reset the codes even there is no code just before inspection. will ride and make engine hot enough just before inspection.

am fine if it takes me from point A to B thought there are code which are not serious.

thanks a lot I will check thi pump and will try to find the valve

is the relay for this same the relay for the radiator fan?

I have removed radiator fan relay and kept for while and this light came before I put it back.

thanks lot, if I have more question hop you will welcome

Georgeandkira · Post by **Georgeandkira** » 06 Jan 2010, 14:58

Hello, CAUTION: Clearing the check engine light also wipes out the memory of your car's driving cycles. Your car automaticly tests components to ascertain "Driving Readyness". You'll flunk your emissions test if that memory hasn't had a chance to re-establish itself. I've heard that it takes 100-150 miles of driving. Ask me how I learned this. Let us know how it works out. Kira

Post by **IVIUSTANG** » 06 Jan 2010, 14:59

There are also two other alternatives regarding the air pump failure on these cars. One is to replace the valve and buy a cheap VW pump and convert it to your Volvo. The other is to electronicly trick your car into thinking there is extra air in the system when the pump solenoid is closed. I'll try and find you the links, other may beat me though

- Jesse

Post by **jblackburn** » 06 Jan 2010, 16:02

If you reset the code with an OBD scanner, it won't clear all the memory. That only happens if you pull the battery cable off, which I don't recommend unless you absolutely have to.

The VW link is above, but I haven't heard (much) about the other method, so maybe you can enlighten us both