I have a 2004 S60T with approx 115,000 mi. I live in indiana and the weather here for the past weeks has been very cold.
I was driving about 35 mph after about 15 minutes of driving the no oil pressure warning popped up. I stopped about 3 blocks later, checked the oil (it was almost completely full (maybe 1/4 quart down). I restarted and the light was gone. I started driving again and the check engine light came on and then the same warning came on again. I shifted to neutral and coasted with engine running until I could get out of traffic. I reingaged engine for about 1 mile. I heard no noises, clunking, whistling, etc.
After checking another forum, most said that it was likely sludge in the oil pan and getting stuck on the screen of the pick-up tube. I talked to the dealer (who is too far away to take it to) and they recommended checking the pressure manually (to rule out a sensor problem) So here is how it came out (according to the import mechanic I always use -- good reputation) cold pressure was 90, warmed up and dropped to 16 continued to warm up and went to zero.
The import shop said that there was gunk in the pan, a small amount on the pick-up tube and some in the filter (which they cut in half to look at according to a service bulletin). He said that there was also carbon almost completely blocking the pvc valve. He wants to add three more hours labor and take out the oil pump to check and continue into the crankcase if he finds something there.
Anyone have any helpful advise or information?
Oil pressure problem - "no oil pressure stop engine safely"
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NoMechanic
- Posts: 10
- Joined: 11 January 2010
- Year and Model: 2004 S60 Turbo
- Location: Indiana
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confused_al
- Posts: 1025
- Joined: 4 August 2008
- Year and Model: 1996 TLA wagon
- Location: NJ
Sounds like your car is poorly maintained. How often do you change your oil? and what kind of oil do you use?
If you are DIY kinda of guy there are several things you can try, but if not you might just let your shop to clean the mess.
If you are DIY kinda of guy there are several things you can try, but if not you might just let your shop to clean the mess.
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NoMechanic
- Posts: 10
- Joined: 11 January 2010
- Year and Model: 2004 S60 Turbo
- Location: Indiana
Actually I keep all of the maintenacne up to date. I change the oil between 3,000 and 4,000 and I use the semi synthetic 5W-30 that Volvo recommends.
I don't have the time for DIY but I respect all of the knowledge that many of you DIYers have accumulated.
I am really asking all of the questions out of mechanical ignorance. I don't want to have work done that I don't need but I don't want to sacrifice my engine for a few extra bucks either.
The dealership said to have them drop the pan, clean the sludge from the pan and screen, replace the orings from around the oil pick-up tube and be done.
I don't have the time for DIY but I respect all of the knowledge that many of you DIYers have accumulated.
I am really asking all of the questions out of mechanical ignorance. I don't want to have work done that I don't need but I don't want to sacrifice my engine for a few extra bucks either.
The dealership said to have them drop the pan, clean the sludge from the pan and screen, replace the orings from around the oil pick-up tube and be done.
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confused_al
- Posts: 1025
- Joined: 4 August 2008
- Year and Model: 1996 TLA wagon
- Location: NJ
That is interesting...NoMechanic wrote:Actually I keep all of the maintenacne up to date. I change the oil between 3,000 and 4,000 and I use the semi synthetic 5W-30 that Volvo recommends
Anyhow, you have no choice but resolve this before the engine gets damaged. What I would try if thats my car is dump some Auto-rx (http://www.auto-rx.com/) in the crankcase let it run for while then change oil (high mileage full synthetic, which has extra detergent) and filter(OEM filter). If there is improvement repeat the process a few times, in a few hundred miles interval, as you drive it. Make sure you dont drive the car hard.
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NoMechanic
- Posts: 10
- Joined: 11 January 2010
- Year and Model: 2004 S60 Turbo
- Location: Indiana
Stopped by their website... it looks great. How many (non-highway) miles would you run it before changing again?
It is at the Import shop now and they will obviously have to fill after they change the o-rings on the uptake tube and replace the pan and filter.
Also, is there a Volvo specific synthetic that you believe is best?
Thanks for the replies.
It is at the Import shop now and they will obviously have to fill after they change the o-rings on the uptake tube and replace the pan and filter.
Also, is there a Volvo specific synthetic that you believe is best?
Thanks for the replies.
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confused_al
- Posts: 1025
- Joined: 4 August 2008
- Year and Model: 1996 TLA wagon
- Location: NJ
Well, its a bit too late. I was trying to preventing you go through that "surgical procedure" by using auto-rx first. Are they going to change the oil pan?NoMechanic wrote:It is at the Import shop now and they will obviously have to fill after they change the o-rings on the uptake tube and replace the pan and filter.
I would do the change after 1k.NoMechanic wrote:How many (non-highway) miles would you run it before changing again?
I do not know, personally I prefer Mobil1.NoMechanic wrote:Also, is there a Volvo specific synthetic that you believe is best?
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NoMechanic
- Posts: 10
- Joined: 11 January 2010
- Year and Model: 2004 S60 Turbo
- Location: Indiana
Yeah, it was already in the shop when I posted. They ended up removing the pan, uptake tube and filter. They cleaned a small amount of sludge off of the screen, they said that the o-ring looked fine but I had it replaced anyway ($3 part). They rechecked the pressure mechanically after they put it back together (full synthetic 5w 30) cold pressure 90 psi, warm (1500 rpm) 45psi and in gear at idle 36psi.
Drove it home yesterday and no warnings, noises, etc.
For anyone else who has not had this problem - it seems pretty common at about 115000 mi. If I could do it over again, I would use the AutoRX occasionally maybe 6-months to a year apart to avoid this.
Anybody see a problem with starting this now? I considered driving for about 2000 on the new oil, then adding the AutoRX and driving up to 1000 more miles and going in for an oil change.
I drive mostly in town with an occasional trip on HWY 70 125 or so miles round trip but I usually keep it under 80 cruising speed and rarely stomp on it.
Drove it home yesterday and no warnings, noises, etc.
For anyone else who has not had this problem - it seems pretty common at about 115000 mi. If I could do it over again, I would use the AutoRX occasionally maybe 6-months to a year apart to avoid this.
Anybody see a problem with starting this now? I considered driving for about 2000 on the new oil, then adding the AutoRX and driving up to 1000 more miles and going in for an oil change.
I drive mostly in town with an occasional trip on HWY 70 125 or so miles round trip but I usually keep it under 80 cruising speed and rarely stomp on it.
This happened to me in my brand new (used) car (2003 v70 2.0 Petrol 108k). Drove it from the garage to work ~20miles. half on motorway half 30ish through town, parked up and left it for a couple of hours. Went out at lunch to fiddle with the stereo etc. then tried to take it for a sping and it thoew up this scary error message. Garage seemed suprised but came and collected. Full Volvo dealership service history as well.
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NoMechanic
- Posts: 10
- Joined: 11 January 2010
- Year and Model: 2004 S60 Turbo
- Location: Indiana
For the record, I have had no problems since the initial fix. I am planning on taking it back in November to have them re-check the oil pressures. If there is a decrease, then I suspect I may have some decisions to make.
I have a 2004 s60." No oil pressure" message came on. Changed oil and filter, light still came on. Then my transmission just started slipping. ? Im lost. Can someone guide me. Let me know what I have to fix. If I let the car sit for awhile, it'll catch gear, but slip after a block or two
Last edited by Usertulip on 12 Jul 2018, 07:34, edited 1 time in total.
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