
FACTORY rip
- phils94850
- Posts: 1156
- Joined: 11 July 2006
- Year and Model: 2009 s60 turbo
- Location: Indiana
- Been thanked: 1 time
FACTORY rip
I just found out, my 94 850 turbo i guess never had the recall done so it still has the factory reverse IC piping..
life is good


1996 Platinum Edition
- RobTheModd
- Posts: 1104
- Joined: 20 August 2009
- Year and Model: 98 S70T5M
- Location: Florida
- Has thanked: 5 times
- Been thanked: 7 times
DEAR LORD MAN!!! CLEAN THAT MOTOR!! haha.
- phils94850
- Posts: 1156
- Joined: 11 July 2006
- Year and Model: 2009 s60 turbo
- Location: Indiana
- Been thanked: 1 time
LOL... yeah its finally gonna be warm enough today to break out the pressure washer. Im gonna be putting a new timing belt in her today so shes gonna get a good cleaning 
1996 Platinum Edition
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Georgeandkira
- Posts: 882
- Joined: 7 April 2009
- Year and Model: '07 V70 + '15 XC70
- Location: Hudson & Champlain Valleys, USA
- Has thanked: 64 times
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Hello Phil, When you do your T-belt would you please post a description of how you squeeze the tensioner before installation. I've read several posts on the subject and the part "...put it in a vise and squeeze it slowly then put a holding pin in it." seems simple enough. I just need someone else's take on what must be a simple step. Is the thing full of oil? Is there a spring inside it? Can it be squeezed with large channel locks? I've done my "newer, rolling action" tensioner and it was very straightforward. In fact I must do the T-belt in my current car in 1,000 miles. It's just that I'm helping my friend's son with his and I've got to look like I know what I'm doing. Kira
- RobTheModd
- Posts: 1104
- Joined: 20 August 2009
- Year and Model: 98 S70T5M
- Location: Florida
- Has thanked: 5 times
- Been thanked: 7 times
I think Im going to attempt the T belt myself unless my mechanic tells me 200 for just the t belt without waterpump replace...
lol.
Hey let me know what you ultimately do to clean it... BE CAREFUL WITH THE WATER GUN MAN!!! lol
and post a... well after pic since we can see the before.
I need to get in mine this weekend and scrub it.
lol.
Hey let me know what you ultimately do to clean it... BE CAREFUL WITH THE WATER GUN MAN!!! lol
and post a... well after pic since we can see the before.
I need to get in mine this weekend and scrub it.
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anmartin44
- Posts: 229
- Joined: 25 October 2009
- Year and Model: 1994 850 n/a
- Location: Chehalis, WA
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first of all i would never get a pressure washer near my engine compartment! that's just me. engine degreaser and a alot of shop towels is the only way i'll do it just because things dont seal quite the same as they used to when the car was new.
As far as the t-belt goes...i did two in the past 4 months (my first two ever) and it's completey doable if you can follow directions at all. i would recommend a cam locking tool from ipd and a good day to do it. channel locks would not work to compress the t-belt, you need a vice or a big clamp. you have to compress it really slow.
good luck
As far as the t-belt goes...i did two in the past 4 months (my first two ever) and it's completey doable if you can follow directions at all. i would recommend a cam locking tool from ipd and a good day to do it. channel locks would not work to compress the t-belt, you need a vice or a big clamp. you have to compress it really slow.
good luck
1994 850 na green 187k on body, 275k on motor(backwards?), unrestricted airbox, 960 TB, persus wheels, Lowered, IPD poly upper and trans mounts.
1974 144 k-jet m40 satin black, 250k on body, 25k on rebuilt motor(running...usually)
1974 144 k-jet m40 satin black, 250k on body, 25k on rebuilt motor(running...usually)
- phils94850
- Posts: 1156
- Joined: 11 July 2006
- Year and Model: 2009 s60 turbo
- Location: Indiana
- Been thanked: 1 time
sorry bout the slow reply fellas...
Yeah you need a vice or big c-clamp to compress the tensioner. The tensioner is like a small shock basically. When you start compressing it, you'll feel it start to get harder to compress. stop there and wait a few minutes and start compressing again, itll get hard again, and so on til you get it compressed enough to put a pin or something to hold it in place. Basically thats it. It takes about 10 min. to compress to give you an idea. If you can afford it or yours has some miles on it, id suggest going on ebay and buying the kit FCP sells that has a new timing belt and tensioner. I think it runs about 120.00. You can only compress the tensioner one time then you have to purchase a new one. If its been compressed before, get a new one. If unsure, get a new one. If you see oil seaping out around the plunger, get a new one.
As far as the cam locking tool ive never used one and no problems. The trick is to get all your timing marks lined up, use white out or something to mark the marks with for a refrence, unbolt the tensioner, and gently slide the belt off. Install the new belt, release the pin holding your tensioner, rotate motor clockwise atleast two times, verify your marks are still lined up, good to go. Some peeps zip tie the two cams together to help them from moving. Just follow the directions step by step and youll be good. If you need help george, holler at me...
I got her all back together yesterday and press. washed it and its running great and looks better. I really need a steam cleaner. I press. washed my 850 and the wifes S70 and havent had any problems. The igniton system and all that is pretty sealed up on volvos. Only time i ran into a problem was on a 2.2 turbo dodge, it wouldnt start back up, got everything wet. It snowed pretty good up here and finally starting to melt so i wanted to also get the salt off the car and underneath.
im gonna do a lil detaling on the eng. compartment and ill post another pic.. hopefully i can satisfy the "pic gods" around here...
Yeah you need a vice or big c-clamp to compress the tensioner. The tensioner is like a small shock basically. When you start compressing it, you'll feel it start to get harder to compress. stop there and wait a few minutes and start compressing again, itll get hard again, and so on til you get it compressed enough to put a pin or something to hold it in place. Basically thats it. It takes about 10 min. to compress to give you an idea. If you can afford it or yours has some miles on it, id suggest going on ebay and buying the kit FCP sells that has a new timing belt and tensioner. I think it runs about 120.00. You can only compress the tensioner one time then you have to purchase a new one. If its been compressed before, get a new one. If unsure, get a new one. If you see oil seaping out around the plunger, get a new one.
As far as the cam locking tool ive never used one and no problems. The trick is to get all your timing marks lined up, use white out or something to mark the marks with for a refrence, unbolt the tensioner, and gently slide the belt off. Install the new belt, release the pin holding your tensioner, rotate motor clockwise atleast two times, verify your marks are still lined up, good to go. Some peeps zip tie the two cams together to help them from moving. Just follow the directions step by step and youll be good. If you need help george, holler at me...
I got her all back together yesterday and press. washed it and its running great and looks better. I really need a steam cleaner. I press. washed my 850 and the wifes S70 and havent had any problems. The igniton system and all that is pretty sealed up on volvos. Only time i ran into a problem was on a 2.2 turbo dodge, it wouldnt start back up, got everything wet. It snowed pretty good up here and finally starting to melt so i wanted to also get the salt off the car and underneath.
im gonna do a lil detaling on the eng. compartment and ill post another pic.. hopefully i can satisfy the "pic gods" around here...
1996 Platinum Edition
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