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How to: Replace factory premium radio (SC-900/901) with aftermarket double-din and retain factory amp/wiring Topic is solved

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's extremely popular car line -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, 850 R, 850 T5-R, 850 T5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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avboden
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avboden

How to: Replace factory premium radio (SC-900/901) with aftermarket double-din and retain factory amp/wiring  Topic is solved

Post by avboden » Fri Jul 14, 2017 8:27 pm

Most guides for this are very old and have broken photo links at this point. I recently did this so here's a new how-to!
Time required: At least 2 hours
Note: Does not retain center speaker
Why would I do this? : You have a factory system that is 6 or more speakers, and have an external amp that handles the crossovers to feed the tweeters. Re-wiring all of this without keeping the amp is a royal pain! These directions allow you to replace the head-unit while maintaining the factory amplifier and speaker wiring. ZERO re-wiring to the speakers is needed.
Parts needed
  • Double-din aftermarket radio of your choice with front and rear pre-amp RCA outputs - I highly suggest sticking with Pioneer
  • Pioneer ADTVA133 2 Din Installation Kit - $30 via amazon OR kit for your respective model head-unit
  • Any radio harness kit for factory volvos of this year. I&tag=matthewsvolvo7-20="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BBP6K/" class="postlink" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Metra 70-9220 - $7.50 via amazon
  • ARH-VOL amplifier retention harness - $16
  • Assorted crimp butt connectors - optional: Solder and heatshrink
  • Optional - parking brake bypass if you have a pioneer head-unit
TOTAL PRICE: $50-$70 + head-unit
Tools needed
  • Philips screwdriver
  • T20 torx bit/driver for removal of center speaker and glovebox
  • Small flat-head screwdriver
  • Dremel, cordless if no access to power.
  • Grinding stone or cutter head for dremel
  • Drill and bit-set or equivalent for dremel
  • Wire stripper/crimping tool
  • Dust-buster style vacuum is handy
  • Optional - soldering iron

Step 1: Gather your parts and tools
parts.JPG
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adapter.JPG
adapter.JPG (1.2 MiB) Viewed 1795 times

Step 2: Take your harness adapter and remove all but these three wires (note, this guide is assuming you run your headlights 24/7 like a good person and don't need to hook up the headlight wire to the headunit)
remaining wires.JPG
remaining wires.JPG (97.21 KiB) Viewed 1795 times

Step 3: Shorten the wires a bit and connect to the matching wires on your radio's harness. Attach the blue wire from the amp adapter to the blue wire on you radio's harness (this blue wire turns on the amp when the car turns on). Note: If you have a power antennae this will also be hooked up to the blue wire.
harness.JPG
harness.JPG (917.11 KiB) Viewed 1795 times

Step 4: Use a key or coin to pop these out of your factory radio, and pull the radio straight out with them
pull radio.JPG
pull radio.JPG (989.9 KiB) Viewed 1795 times

Step 5: Unplug everything from the back of the radio. All we will need is the larger antennae plug, the larger connector with the power, and the DIN cable to the amp.
radio out.JPG
radio out.JPG (964.88 KiB) Viewed 1795 times

Step 6: Before we make any permanent modifications, plug in your adapter harness and everything to the new head-unit and make sure it works. You will be attaching the large plug with the adapter you made before, the DIN adapter, and RCA of the DIN adapter to the head-unit. Ignore parking brake interlock cable for now. Make sure to test your front/rear fader to make sure sure your RCA cables are connected appropriately. Modify as needed so front is front and rear is rear. Don't trust the adapter without testing this, some maybe wired in reverse from what they advertise (mine was).
wiring.JPG
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testing.JPG
testing.JPG (814.13 KiB) Viewed 1795 times

Step 7: (Note, you can do this step before getting in the car) With the Pioneer double-din installation kit, attach the side brackets to your new head-unit with two screws on both sides using the tapered screws that came with your head-unit. You will not need to attach the large rear bracket.
Step 8:Remove everything again. Stuff the car-side wires in and stuff the hole with some paper towels or a rag. Note the plastic rail on each side of the opening. This is the plastic we will be removing in Step 9.
to grind.JPG
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Step 9: Using your dremel with either a grinding stone or a cutting head, carefully remove the plastic rail from both sides. Stop frequently to let it all cool. Warning, melted/cut plastic gets HOT. Don't catch anything on fire! I am not responsible if you burn your car down. Vacuum as needed.
done grind.JPG
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Step 10: Press the double-din basket that came with the pioneer kit into place. It should go in easily and sit flush along the edges once in all the way.
place basket.JPG
place basket.JPG (847.8 KiB) Viewed 1795 times

Step 11: If your press tabs on the basket don't line up with the existing holes in the plastic, score with your flathead screwdriver edge around the outer two press-tabs on the basket on the bottom and both sides. You should have 6 scored in total
Step 12: Using your drill or capable dremel attachment, carefully drill/cut out the areas you had scored. This doesn't have to be super clean so don't worry if it's ugly. Photo is after I drilled out what I needed. Careful not to drill into what's below the area.
cut holes.JPG
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Step 13: Press the basket back into place, and using your flathead screwdriver, press the tabs down into the holes you made until the basket is tight
bend pins.JPG
bend pins.JPG (767.16 KiB) Viewed 1795 times

Note: Steps 14-18 assume your head-unit uses an external microphone for bluetooth phone calling
Step 14: Using your T20 driver, undo the screws holding in the glove-box. Yank the glove box straight out.
Step 15: Using your flat head screw driver, pry up the edge of the cover over the center speaker on the dash. It takes a little force but it pops off eventually.
Step 16: Also using the T20, remove the center speaker
Step 17: Feed your head-unit's microphone to the right, stick your hand in through the glove-box hole for guidance. Once through there it can be easily routed behind the radio by looking through the glove-box hole.
center mic.JPG
center mic.JPG (836.92 KiB) Viewed 1795 times
Step 18: Replace the center speaker, cover, and glove-box. (optional: Remove the center speaker from the bracket and only re-install the bracket). The microphone wire will fit underneath the speaker's bracket on the front left corner (front being towards the rear of the car)
done mic.JPG
done mic.JPG (696.7 KiB) Viewed 1795 times

Step 19: Run the parking brake interlock-wire (long green wire from the new head-unit) down and into the trans tunnel trim. I was able to do this without removing anything but the trim on the parking brake itself(which you pry to the left and then off). Connect this wire to the single wire on your parking brake sensor. *optional* skip this and install the bypass
Step 20: Plug in all your various adapters to your new head-unit, tuck the unused wires back, and set the new head unit into place. This is the time to plug in any AUX input cable or USB cable you may also want to run from the new head unit and route them wherever you want. It should push back flush with the newly installed basket. If it won't go in all the way, take it out and work on tucking the wires back better until it slides in easily.
place radio.JPG
place radio.JPG (945.17 KiB) Viewed 1795 times

Step 21:Screw in the 4 phillips screws that came with the pioneer double-din adapter kit to hold the new head-unit in place to the basket.
screwed radio.JPG
screwed radio.JPG (907.95 KiB) Viewed 1795 times

Step 22: Press the trim that came with the pioneer double-din adapter kit into place. There is a small gap on top if you're picky you can custom a better trim piece.
done radio.JPG
done radio.JPG (998.04 KiB) Viewed 1795 times

YOU'RE DONE! ENJOY YOUR NEW HEAD-UNIT RUNNING THROUGH THE FACTORY AMP! Don't forget to set the clock and program it as you see fit. Make sure your pre-amp RCA outputs are set to "full" or "rear" and not to "Subwoofer"
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cmdangelo83
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Re: How to: Replace factory premium radio (SC-900/901) with aftermarket double-din and retain factory amp/wiring

Post by cmdangelo83 » Fri Jun 21, 2019 7:16 pm

Very Helpful. Thanks. I'll add that the antenna signal cable is blue and is on the power block so I left the blue wire on the adapter in addition to the red, yellow, and black wires and then ganged it with the amp wire from the radio power block and the rca adapter with the blue tail.
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EggShen

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Re: How to: Replace factory premium radio (SC-900/901) with aftermarket double-din and retain factory amp/wiring

Post by EggShen » Sat Aug 24, 2019 9:03 am

Thanks for the awesome guide!

A few questions about step 19:
1) What exactly does the parking break sensor wire do?
2) Where is the parking brake sensor on the car that you say to connect the long green wire from the head unit to?
3) What connections are made to install the brake sensor bypass (I am installing a Pioneer)

Thanks again.

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Re: How to: Replace factory premium radio (SC-900/901) with aftermarket double-din and retain factory amp/wiring

Post by Eddystone » Sat Aug 24, 2019 10:07 pm

As far as removing the Volvo "retention groove" an oscillating saw takes care of both sides in about 30 seconds, and very cleanly.

The $19.95 Harbor Freight tool is not a Fein, but it does the job. I've owned both.

https://www.harborfreight.com/oscillati ... 62866.html
1998 V70 Non-Turbo/Auto
1993 945 Turbo/Auto
1999 S70 T5 Turbo/Auto
All U.S. market models.
All on the road and running.
PM me if you are near Philadelphia.
;-)

FredM1960
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Re: How to: Replace factory premium radio (SC-900/901) with aftermarket double-din and retain factory amp/wiring

Post by FredM1960 » Mon Oct 21, 2019 5:55 am

Hi,

I have also sub-woofers in my C70, are they still in use with this "upgrade"?
Thanks!

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BEJinFbk
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Re: How to: Replace factory premium radio (SC-900/901) with aftermarket double-din and retain factory amp/wiring

Post by BEJinFbk » Tue Oct 22, 2019 12:15 am

FredM1960 wrote:
Mon Oct 21, 2019 5:55 am
Hi,

I have also sub-woofers in my C70, are they still in use with this "upgrade"?
Thanks!
If they're the factory subs in the seat backs, yes.
They run off of the big amp in the back as well.
'98 V70 R - Well Equipped for Life Up North... ;)

FredM1960
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FredM1960

Re: How to: Replace factory premium radio (SC-900/901) with aftermarket double-din and retain factory amp/wiring

Post by FredM1960 » Tue Oct 22, 2019 12:22 am

BEJinFbk wrote:
Tue Oct 22, 2019 12:15 am
FredM1960 wrote:
Mon Oct 21, 2019 5:55 am
Hi,

I have also sub-woofers in my C70, are they still in use with this "upgrade"?
Thanks!
If they're the factory subs in the seat backs, yes.
They run off of the big amp in the back as well.
Thanks for the reply. Good to know. Nice winter project :-). Now only to find a decent Android radio and if I'm understand everything correct it must be one with a pre-amp out.
Cheers,
Fred

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Re: How to: Replace factory premium radio (SC-900/901) with aftermarket double-din and retain factory amp/wiring

Post by Lucas2T » Thu Dec 19, 2019 1:18 pm

Nice writeup!
After reading this I decided to do the same mod somewhere in the next week or so.
Bought this JVC bluetooth headunit with 2 pre-outs.
https://www.drivegear.co.nz/product/jvc ... head-unit/

Let's say, later on I want to add an active sub to the setup.
Would this be possible with this particular radio since the adapter harness takes up two pre-outs?

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Re: How to: Replace factory premium radio (SC-900/901) with aftermarket double-din and retain factory amp/wiring

Post by matthew1 » Fri Dec 20, 2019 9:22 am

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Re: How to: Replace factory premium radio (SC-900/901) with aftermarket double-din and retain factory amp/wiring

Post by matthew1 » Mon Jan 20, 2020 9:05 am

Added to VRD.

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