2001 V70 2.4T Code 0422

Post by **E170_Driver** » 14 Jan 2010, 19:44

I had my check engine light go on at 95,000 miles and asked my then local dealer in Lexington, KY to check it out. They quoted me first $800 to replace all 5 fuel injectors for a possible leak. If that didn't do the trick I was advised to replace both oxygen sensors at another $800 and then rap it up with a catalytic converter replacement at a final $2,200. Well, I left the dealership shaking my head and 40,000 miles later it was still driving fine, until about 2 weeks ago...leaving work (I drive 500 miles round trip from Somerset, KY to Indianapolis once a week) it started hesitating just slightly after 10 minutes of driving on the interstate and engaged on cruise control (mind you it was verrry cold). It continued doing that for the next 5 minutes or so and then went away; nothing severe but I knew that I had to get this CEL taking care of. I did invest into a code reader and it came back as "P0422 Main Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)". After an exhausted review on what this actually means (thanks much to this website) I decided to replace the aft/downstream oxygen sensor with a new NGK sensor part number 9186934.

I took the following steps...

1. Put the vehicle on ramps
2. Removed the bolts and the underside cover
3. Found the oxygen sensor just downstream of the catalytic converter (cant miss it)
4. First I wanted to unplug the electrical connection (a little tricky, but a little patience did the trick). The only way for me to access the connection with both hands was through the top; the right arm went by the air filter housing and the left arm over the over/behind the engine block. The connection can be a little difficult to open; I used a straight edge screw driver to undo the red clip and twisted the tool very slowly and careful since the clip looks rather fragile, but eventually it losened about 1/3 of an inch and then I was able to remove the old sensors' plug.
5. Then I used a 7/8 inch wrench to undo the sensor from the exhaust system; it is once again a very tight space to work in and you might have to have a different tool to the get the job done, but my wrench lined up perfectly and the sensor came right out.
6. There were two plastic clips holding the electrical wire leading to the plug connection...not too hard to remove
7. Follow the directions that come with your new sensor (anti-seize and how tight the unit has to be put on); first fit it into the opening, then plug it in (I was able to do this with one arm from underneath the car; just very tight) and put the plastic clamps back into place.
8. Install the lower cover
9. I had to erase my code with the help of the reader.

Well, I drove my first 250 miles this morning and I am very thrilled to report that the CEL has not come back YET...crossing my fingers and since I drive 2,000 to 2,500 miles every month it ought to come on here soon if the problem still exists...

I am new on working on my Volvo and if there is anything I missed or I could have done better, let me know; but I always found it helpful when people described in detail what they did...I want to learn my vehicle better and know that she has many miles left on her, especially since I don't put hard miles on the car...just cruising at 70 MpH for 500 miles every week...

Jan

Somerset, KY

Georgeandkira · Post by **Georgeandkira** » 16 Jan 2010, 16:50

Hello, GREAT POST! Subtract the cost of your NGK #9186934 from $3,800 and smile. How much was it, anyway? Also, have you at least CHECKED the fluid in your transmission? At 135,250+ miles I sure hope so. How does it shift and/or disengage? I'm assuming it's an automatic. If so, it requires a 3309 fluid. NO E-Z LUBE TRANNIE FLUID CHANGES FOR US. Also, many people would take your highway driving as the perfect circumstance to use a quality conventional motor oil-and that ain't bad. I just want to alert you to the fact that there are oils on the market with the "A3,B3" additive package. A3,B3 is petroleum industry lingo for a high temperature turbocharger bearing lubricant which is only found in a few synthetic oils. My experiences, while limited, are solidly positive. And no, I don't sell the stuff. Go for 500,000 with your V70. Kira

Post by **E170_Driver** » 18 Jan 2010, 16:59

Hey Kira,
I got the NGK O2 Sensor for about $125, no shipping costs - arrived 2 days later. On the transmission fluid, no I have not checked it yet; unfortunately I am only 12 days a month at home and most of the time during the night time (when the family is asleep) do I gather out to the garage and work on the car. But I did finally find the dipstick for the ole tranny and one of my goals for the first quarter is to flush the liquid with the Mobile 3099...the Owner's Manual says that a 2001 V70 2.4T transmission holds 7.9 qts...can anybody confirm that the unit holds that much??? I would like to have all my facts straight and know exactly what I am doing before opening up the plug. Next to the oil...I did my first oil change 1,000 miles ago and I used Castrol GTX 10W30 and plan on changing it every 2 months or 5,000 miles; any suggestions on that interval or the fluid would be appreciated!!
Last but not least, I told my wife that you mentioned to get to 500,000 miles with the vehicle and at current driving conditions I would reach that milestone in 2024...she thinks that the V70 was biggest mistake we ever made (all the $ we put into the vehicle), but honestly it starts growing on me much thanks to this website...

Jan

Post by **E170_Driver** » 18 Jan 2010, 17:20

In addition,
on the drive back from Indy my CEL came back on, about 300 after installing the O2 sensor...upon reaching home late last night, I plugged the car in and got OBD-II Trouble Code 0128 Coolant Thermostat (Coolant Temperature Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature). Ever since I bought the vehicle (3 years ago) the coolant temperature gauge was always at the 11 o'clock position when the engine was at temperature. Today I went out and bought a thermostat (192 C) and installed it following the directions from this website...very easy to follow, even for a novice like myself. I did not have any problems with the #2 torx screw. I got some pictures, but don't know how to post them...I would love to add them here. I then deleted the CEL and drove the car for 30 minutes = the coolant temperature gauge settled at the 12 o'clock position and no CEL returned, YET.

Jan

VThokie15 · Post by **VThokie15** » 20 Jan 2010, 10:34

My 2001 S60 2.4T gets that CEL (0422) every few months. It is so intermittent that I haven't been able to attribute it to anything other than bad gas. Before moving to California, I didn't have this problem. After the first fill-up in CA, I go the 0422 code. I always fill up with Premium fuel. My fuel economy hasn't gone down, so I just reset the code and wait for it to come back.

Does anyone know what difference fuel in CA has from the rest of the US?

Post by **E170_Driver** » 20 Jan 2010, 16:19

VThokie15,
not quite sure about the gas in CA...I know in certain counties here in Kentucky (Louisville I know for sure) we have what is called reformulated gas, just not good gas what so ever, but it is supposed to help the environment!!!
Here is a list of places...
http://www.epa.gov/otaq/rfg/whereyoulive.htm
When my P0422 code first showed up it would come on and then dissappear again and eventually stay on all the time. As mentioned above, changing out the aft O2 sensor solved my problem. Good luck.

Jan

Post by **E170_Driver** » 23 Jan 2010, 01:57

Just got back from Indianapolis (another 500 miles) and everything seemed to go great...no P0124 and P0422 codes. The coolant temperature is right at the 12 o'clock position (192C I assume) and she is driving just fine. Since I spend A LOT of time in this car, it gets me thinking about my next project...I think I will replace the transmission fluid. The local Toyota dealership sells the Type IV ATF for $5.05/qt, compared to $21.56/qt for the Volvo ATF from Quantrell in Lexington (arrrgh).

Jan

Georgeandkira · Post by **Georgeandkira** » 23 Jan 2010, 05:28

Hello E170_Driver, Earlier you asked about transmission fluid capacity. You can do a search on the subject. If you pull the drain plug of the trans. ~3.25 quarts will come out. Just replace that amount via a long funnel, or a short one with a piece of plastic tubing attached, through the dipstick hole. Do it again after driving a few days. The majority of people do this "sump dump" or drain and refill 3 times. The other method, which is quite easy too, involves seperating the top transmission cooling line from the top left of the radiator. Then attach a clear plastic line to the radiator fitting and pump out 2 quarts (NO more-you don't want bubbles) at a time. Starting this process with a sump drain and refill increases the efficiency of the whole operation. Remember to have on hand the green plastic clip (the old ones were aluminum cage style external clips) if yours breaks, the 2 small O-rings for the cooling line and an aluminum gasket for the transmission drain plug for each time you remove it. The aluminum gasket crushhes up pretty completely and you wouldn't want to reuse it. The 4-speed transmissions (which you don't have) pumped out the same way EXCEPT that the fluid travelled out of the top cooling line into the radiator. Just remember the fluid from your transmission will come out of the fitting on the radiator; if you choose that route. Regarding the oil interval. I'd use an A3,B3 synthetic, as mentioned, and change it every 5,000 to 7,500 miles. You're such a highway driver you can stretch it. Kira

Post by **E170_Driver** » 23 Jan 2010, 08:46

Thanks for the info Kira, I did read about the different ways to get this accomplished and think that I will take the path of least resistance and do the "sump dump" method. The 3.25 qts coming out initially sounds about right since quite a bit of the liquid will remain in the unit - so the 7.25 qts total capacity seems to be correct. Do you know how to find out if you have the original transmission in your car, some sort of a number one can check out? I have read that some folks have gotten their transmissions worked on just to find out it was the wrong unit for the car...

Thanks

Jan