Head Gasket - Overheat Problem Identification??

Fordman · Post by **Fordman** » 11 Jan 2010, 18:51

All,

It's a new year, time to solve this riddle........

Trying to establish an a) b) etc. list of things to do in sequence to isolate the real problem. (as always - finding the problem is 1/2 the problem) Am in a new location now (new mexico) so don't have any local contacts to rely on. Found a shop here that might be able to help but need to have a reasonable plan to present to them. Unfortunately I believe I will need a new block, but want to get to that decision soon.

Main problem is as I started - 400 ppm exhaust gases in radiator fluid, high radiator fluid temperatures while running, assorted OBDII codes.

Retouring the head is a reasonable idea but thinking I should check compression first.

So
a) check compression
b) if low, retorque head & check compression
c) if ok, leak down test?
d) if compression not ok, ???

Might need a rebuilt short block - any suggestions?

Thanks to all for info, if pics can help, please use. Post when i have more real info.

-Fordman

Post by **djm850** » 22 Jan 2010, 12:08

Very anxious to hear how this is going. I'm smack in the middle of a head install myself. I'd love to chat some things over with you.

mdempst_79 · Post by **mdempst_79** » 22 Jan 2010, 12:37

Just a quick note..

Ensure you are slow while tightening the valvetrain down as the lifters need time to bleed down. Tighten slowly by ratchet so that you don't drive a valve to far down into the piston, otherwise you will be removing the head again to change out valves. Also ensure Cam is set to the right orientation (TDC) before tightening down as you dont want to be tightening it down with the wrong set of valves open.

Mark

Post by **djm850** » 22 Jan 2010, 13:35

You mean when tightening the top half w/cams to the bottom half? I'm planning on building the haynes tools and the top half tightening tools (2) is a threaded rod with nut/washers on one end and the other end is threaded into an old plug with the ceramic removed. Plug end of tools are threaded in #1 & #5 plug holes then tightened alternately. So I should just go real slow like say around 10 minutes with pauses? Also, I've read some folks have tightened just using the bolts slowly/evenly alternating bolts and watching to ensure the gap closes evenly and some have used 4 C-clamps. Is the tool easy enough to make or would one of these other methods work as well/better?

Fordman · Post by **Fordman** » 26 Jun 2010, 21:13

Hello Again - Team Volvo
First, a thank you to all for your contributions of tech tips, postings and encouragement........Sorry if I haven't replied to specific tech questions, due to lack of modivation and a bad January radiator fluid leak I thought would be hard to find, she sat till last month.

Update
Fixed the radiator hose leak, have tried to find with no luck block chec to borrow to help confirm the initial after rebuild 400 ppm exhaust gases in rad fluid shop reading, so I figure I'll drive it monitoring temps w/ my OBII reader. It's a 100F most days here in New Mexico right now so it's a good performance test. I have been searching for a short block to purchase and start working on, so far no luck.

Driving Results
OSA (outside air temp) 70F - V70 186F on freeway, 205F slow in parking lot
OSA 100F - V70 195F on freeway, 215F @ below 35 mph
been driving daily for ~ 3 weeks for a total of 550 miles
added 4.5 ounces of rad fluid totaly happy with this
-oil level has been fine
-no rad leaks
-always have a P0505 code which was going to be my next project, w/0 AC high idle about 1400 rpm, w/ AC 1100 rpm, other than that I'm not sucking water, so far, so good.

The Gift
Pulled into the garage........ post more pics tomorrow, site too hard to work w/ today

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Fordman · Post by **Fordman** » 27 Jun 2010, 11:36

Checked cam seals first - looks like the problem

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Fordman · Post by **Fordman** » 27 Jun 2010, 11:42

Oil all over timing belt - is this ok?

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Historical pics of seal install ~ 700 miles ago

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Fordman · Post by **Fordman** » 27 Jun 2010, 11:51

Additionally noticed oil deposits around the oil fill port plus removing the spark plug cover noted oil which has blown out of the oil cap and depositied into the head.......?? normal or must have higher than desired internal to engine pressure but thinking I should have a vacuum condition but might have a vacuum leak due to my reoccuring P0505 code but actually have maybe high internal compression caused by my elusive maybe block/head crack which increases the internal pressure which pushed oil out the oil cap and pushes the cam seal(s) out???...........

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Next - list the open questions and the plan of attack.........

Fordman · Post by **Fordman** » 27 Jun 2010, 17:21

Would it be possible for me with 'dental tools' to cleam the ID cam and the OD of the seal and push it back on?

Installing the camshaft retaining tool on the back end of the cams and removing the timing belt is a very big job.

-Fordman

Fordman · Post by **Fordman** » 04 Jul 2010, 17:26

Happy 4th of July to All

Decided to forge ahead with the cam lock bracket and timing belt removal, status pics.........

Oil leaking from bolt, no oil from distro and cam position sensors.......

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Head Gasket - Overheat Problem Identification??

Re: Head Gasget - Overheat Problem Identification??