Volvo 850 ABS Pump Motor

Post by **jmmxc** » 16 Jan 2010, 12:57

Hi everybody.
This morning I got all my tools lined up to tackle my ABS module problem.
I discovered the power cable to be in bad shape. Frayed in several places. I am afraid it might be real bad on the inside part of the black plastic housing for the the pump(?) Cable does not seem to be shorted but the cable insulation is scaling off...I can seperate and use heavy duty electrical tape.
Question2?_ Is there a way to remove the plastic cover where the cable goes so I can repair the cable? Should the whole block with the hydraulic metal hoses have to be removed?......Picture is included for clarity.
Not sure if this should be moved to a new topic, but I figure it is related to the abs system. If so, my apologies.
Thanks in advance for your responses.
jmmx

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 16 Jan 2010, 19:32

The lower wires to the pump motor look like a rodent got to them. We had a major ice storm a few years ago and the d@mnd squirrels lost their nests in the trees and decided that the top of my engine - on two cars and on three occasions - would be a great place to live. They ate every wire on the top of my block (These were both Suburbans). On my '96 Suburban if I call into parts they punch in the VIN and just laugh and call it the squirrel car - it must pop up on their records.

To your point, on the large connector latch, there is a release tab on the end and the entire hood folds open to release the connector. Depress the release tab and then fold the hood back.

...Lee

Post by **jmmxc** » 16 Jan 2010, 20:59

Hi Lee:
I had already disconnected the large cable on the side of the module.
I was asking about the 2 wire cable, which is the first cable to be disconnected as per the procedure. I want to repair the cable using some good electrical tape. The cable is flaking off to the touch. The cable goes inside the black cylinder shape plastic piece (with the white label on it) sitting on top of the metal block with the 5 hydraulic lines. (See new picture caption).
The question is how to pop out the black cylinder cover piece. It looks like it is tied firmly to that metal block. Is there a way to remove it just by itself, or should the whole assembly be removed and how...

Sorry my first pix in the previous message was not clear enough.
Thanks,
jmmxc

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 17 Jan 2010, 00:41

As much as I would like to help you I don't know. I have never had to go there. If you figure it out please post it back for a future reference.

...Lee

Post by **jmmxc** » 17 Jan 2010, 07:55

OK, hot on the trail....

thanks,
jmmxc

Post by **jmmxc** » 17 Jan 2010, 14:32

Well. I took a good look at what is involved to take out the ABS Pump assembly. My conclusion is it is not that quick and easy.
** Perhaps this repair topic needs to get its own thread since it does move away from fixing the abs module topic**.
However my pump power cable insulation is brittle and the exposed wiring can be seen all the way up inside the pump (or motor) cover. There is a definite short inside. I can't get there...(frustrating...)

The pump/abs module is held by a almost V shape bracket bolted in three places to the chassis, and you have those 3 torx screws (T50) mounted on rubber bushings holding the assembly on top. Access to the 3 bolts (along the underneath of the abs module itself) can be gained with some difficulty. But the real work has to do with removal of the hydraulic unions and brake lines first.
Perhaps someone with experience in brakes system could indicate the best approach.

Thanks again.
jmmxc

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 23 Jan 2010, 06:24

You are likely due for a brake fluid flush anyway so here is how I would go about it. Find a new ABS assembly either from a junk yard or on eBay. This one on eBay looks promising but check out the numbers to make sure it matches yours.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1997-Vol ... 518c01eab8

The module on that system may or may not be good.

Use a turkey baster or some similar vacuum pump to suck the old fluid out of the brake fluid reservoir.

From there it is a matter of carefully removing the brake lines and bending them slightly to allow you to remove the old modulator assembly.

It will be messy and you need to be careful, brake fluid will eat the paint off of the painted surfaces under the hood of the car on contact and it will also damage the clear coated surfaces on the exterior. Have a large stock of shop towels and be prepared to just throw them away.

Once the replacement is installed you will need to bleed the entire brake system.

Good luck with it.

...Lee

Post by **jmmxc** » 23 Jan 2010, 11:22

Thanks for the warning!
I imagined it will be messy.
I have plenty of towels...Now I got to get the ABS assembly.
I will check the one on ebay.
Thanks for the tip and advice.
jmmxc

Post by **BEJinFbk** » 23 Jan 2010, 11:50

jmmxc wrote:Thanks for the warning!
I imagined it will be messy.
I have plenty of towels...Now I got to get the ABS assembly.
I will check the one on ebay.
Thanks for the tip and advice.
jmmxc

So, was this not helpful? https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=26393

You never posted back...
Just curious.

Post by **jmmxc** » 23 Jan 2010, 22:07

That was extremely helpful.
As you suggested here, I am going to repair the power cable first -->https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=26393
I have yet to get the extraction tool to remove the pins in the power cable connector. No hardware or automotive stores carry this tool in my area. But I will get it.

I am expecting the shorting cable to be the problem; but if its not, I will have to replace the whole module.

As Lee suggested, it will be messy but I can do it if it comes to replacing the assembly.

The dilema is my defective ABS can be from one or the other: the pump power cable or the module. And thanks to you gentlemen of this forum I have the means to fix either one! I will follow up with result as well pictures if necessary.
Thanks again.
jmmxc